saltydancindave 0 Report post Posted August 23, 2015 Many years ago while doing a leader butt thru the end of fly line connection & finding a core of string which had to be removed; just figured it was a wick to absorb water & glued the tip end shut along with the 2 other pin holes created . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuzFly 0 Report post Posted August 23, 2015 Great scientific info above. How old is the line, was it new when you purchased it, what brand is it, was it baked in your car for the summer? I would clean it using a bucket of water and just detergent as shown on a few youtube videos. Then loosely coil (10" or 12" coils) it up and let it dry. Before you treat it make a 40'-50' cast and let it sit on top of the water with no leader or fly on the line. You should have the compete head and some of the level line out on the water. Don't just throw a pile of line on the water. See what happens. It should float even without any treatment. If is sinks like a rock, go back to who you purchased it from or call the people that made it and ask them for some help and a replacement. Any good line company would like to hear from you and help you get the line you need. If it floats, you had a dirty line and it needed to be cleaned. After the test cast, clean it with a towel an then then treat it with a line dressing and let it dry loosely coiled up overnight and then put it back on your spool. Brad PS - I don't think water migration in the end of a line is a problem. Also, most modern fly lines for reputable companies work very well out of the box. The cheep $15/$20 unboxed imported lines are exactly what you pay for. Some will work flawlessly for years and other will be crap wright out of the plastic bag. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FlickNdip 0 Report post Posted August 27, 2015 I'd clean it and look for cracks or cuts in the line. Once you do that you can try treating your line with some floatant. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crazy4oldcars 0 Report post Posted September 15, 2015 Temperature differences between the air and water could account for some wicking. As the air inside contracts it would draw some water into the tip. As for the neutral buoyancy issue, the fact they add compensators implies that the material is heavier than water. The air in the core would be adding lift, so when it is displaced, the line would have a stronger tendency to sink. Nothing scientific or definitive, but a few thoughts to consider. Kirk B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
