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Fly Tying


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About EzGoing

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  1. Fiberglass rods make excellent small stream rods. I much prefer how they feel to graphite. I also think they will role cast better because of they're generally fuller flexing. But, everyone is different and it's best to try as many rods as you can or stick to the one or two or three or....that you enjoy.
  2. To many people talk about glass rods of the past because it's been their only experience with it. They dog glass these days because they think of it as 'retro'. Talk about a change in technology... those rods were made with e-glass. Many if not most fiberglass rods today are made with S-glass. S-glass is unidirectional and provides increased strength and lightness while maintaining flexibility. If you think your old glass rod was durable ...todays are even more so and much lighter! With the new technology and increase in tapers if you want a graphite-like broomstick and can have that or you can have a nice easy flexing, easy casting rod if you want, too, all depending on the taper. They come in all types of tapers and lengths. So, don't believe everything you read on forums...go out and try them! To me, fiberglass rods are just more fun and so much more enjoyable! The reason I love casting and fishing them...oh, they also catch fish. - I was fishing with a friend of mine and a guide. We both had 8 1/2' ft rods but mine was fiberglass and his a Sage xp. By mid-day my friend's wrist and arms were so tired he kept slapping the water on his back cast. I was still making nice casts. My rod was slightly heavier but it flexes and the rod does most of the work. It wasn't so stiff [broomstick] like his graphite. My friend had to work much harder casting than I did and by the end of the day he exhausted his arm. Keeping it simple is generally better. - Again, go to the web site I mentioned/provided in my earlier post to discuss fiberglass rods with fly fishers that actually use them and not just rhetoric and hearsay.
  3. If you want to learn more about fiberglass then go to where the discussions and expertise is fiberglass http://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/ You will find all the information you want from people who actually fish it and live it.
  4. I fish fiberglass and bamboo 95% of the time. The only time I use graphite is if I'm in my pontoon on a large lake...even then I still use an 8.5'/5wt wt McFarland or 8.5'/4wt Diamondglass rod. Fiberglass is smoother and has more feel then graphite and often times more than bamboo. There are some tremendous glass rods out there, especially nowadays! Like bamboo there are many glass tapers. Some you may like and some not. Best is to try or buy used and get your money back if you don't like them. I'd recommend trying some of the original 3pc Diamondglass rods or Hardy Perfection glass rods or older Scott glass rods. Echo and Epic are making some fine glass rods as is Orvis and L. Kenney and M. Steffen. I have an older Berkley Parametric 8.5'/7wt that I will never sell. Its light, smooth and sweet flexing. I do find it harder to find glass rods in the heavier weights from 7wt up and then go to spey rods or graphite. By the way my all time favorite graphite rod is a Orvis Seven Eleven 4wt. It feels like glass!
  5. I'm looking for any reviews on this vise, pros and cons, if you use or have used one? Thanks.
  6. I prefer a gallows tool which came with my Jvice when tying paraloop flies. It makes it easier, imo. Recently fished a few paraloops in mont. and they were very effective.
  7. Not always so. I tried getting my kids involved in fishing to no avail. Just not interested in it. But, my wife has taken a tepid interest. Kids are all different. They've been exposed to much and I let them find their way to the things they enjoy such as old electronics, music, and so on...things I would have never taken an interest in. It's a two way street.
  8. Original Pott flies go for around $50 + or - $10-$15. The more collectable Pott flies are the ones on the cards made in Missoula Mt. The Pott flies on 'made in Denver' CO are not as valuable. They were outsourced but Potts was unhappy with the quality and returned the production back to Missoula.
  9. I own Tying Small Flies, Ed Engle, and Leon Links CDC book. Engle's has some good information on hooks and thread. To me the patterns are ok. The CDC book has nice information for beginners using CDC, like myself. Another book I like is 'Tying Flies the ParaLoop Way'. To me an easier alternative to tying parachute flies. I would aslo add some soft hackle tying books and a classic streamer book to the mix.
  10. I have the older Partridge 15BN Klinkhamer hooks developed by Hans himself. The latest design are the Daiichi 1160 or 1167 Klinkhamer hooks also recently designed by Hans for his Klinkhamer fly. See his article in the latest spring 2014 issue of Fly Tyer magazine.
  11. No ones going to break the jaws on a JVice. It's not 'over' engineered but engineered to perfection. I don't drive a tank to work and I don't need a tank to tie flies. But, I'm not trying to convert anyone to a Jvice. I know what I like and like what I know. - One other thing is service. Jay worked with me to customize the vise such as the 3/8" stem. He returned all emails promptly.
  12. I sent Jay a stainless steel 3/8" stem I bought off Amazon.com. With the 3/8" stem I can use the JVice on any N. American made base or C-clamp. I don't care for the wooden bases that come with it or the U.S. off shoot Wasatch Jvice. So, I use my JVice with a Peak base [nicest base made] or a c-clamp. I really think the JVice is one of the nicest vises out there. If it's good enough for renown author, Atlantic Salmon tyer, photographer, Michael Radencich, it's good enough for me. It works/functions as nice as it looks. I bought the bobbin rest and gallows tool with it. I like the gripping power, the variety of hooks sizes it holds, and the roominess and comfort in the design of the arm where I can place my left hand while tying. The fine design is not robotic looking like a lot of vises made these days. I like functional art...like a nice bamboo rod, which is what the Jvice is...functional art. It may not be the vise for everyone but I'm glad I bought it.
  13. I have the standard jaws which are narrow but..not the Damascus Pro Jaws...The standard jaws on the earlier Jvice were not as narrow but they've changed. I love the Jvice. I had it made with the 3/8" stem which is the standard size/diameter stem on North American tying vises. With the 3/8" stem I can use any tying base or C-clamp. But, I believe you have to ask for it otherwise you may end up with a narrower stem which won't fit American tying bases or c-clamps. I sent Jay the stainless steel stem from the US. I use the JVice with the PEAK base or c-clamp....I don't care for the wooden bases that come standard with the Jvice and didn't order one. The Jvice is the prettiest vise made and it works as nice as it looks. ---Now, back to the HMH Standard vs the DK Professional...............still undecided and may have to wait to play with them.
  14. I've owned rotaries before [DK Ron Abbey Special, Renzetti Traveller, sold both] but true rotary's just not a priority. I have a J-Vice now but looking for a simple vice such as the HMH or DK Professional...honestly, just because. I'm pretty much set on either one. I owned a HMH years ago and just remember having problems with it slipping at the chasis with even moderate tension. I was wondering if they have improved it at all? Both vises offer a straight arm with adjusting angles which I like more than the true rotary option...I don't care for the DK's with the elbow [barracuda etc]. Though the Jvice has a curved elbow I can get my hand on it and it's comfortable.
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