balsa fly rod lures

These are both done on Mustad 1/0 c71s ss circle streamer hooks I made an error on this the other day.I discribed it as a popper, It's also a slider with a rattle

2/0 pencil popper 3/0 popper 3/0 popper 3/0 rattlin slider If you like,I can post more.

Is the diver something you have been making for some time,or is it new?

Im not Balsa but is suspect two things. 1: To help it sink because it is a "crankbait". Is what I think. 2: To let the butt sink lower so when he does pull it for the actions maybe you'll get more action because it's has more water pushing on the lip. Then again I don't really know so don't listen to me. possibly to keep it the right way up? The lead wire was added to bring them to balance,and to try to add some action.I remember making a number of different ones before I was somewhat happy with the results.The first one here was my take on a old lure,called a Weber pop and wiggle.I was given one of them years ago.It was in bad shape,so I dissected it.The one pictured is about 1/3 the size of the original.I was able to duplicate the size and shape easily,but without weight they just didn't work.Several months ago I found a photo of the original. They had a willow leaf blade attached to the butt end.The one I was given,the blade had been removed. Now I know and have bought blades to make more.They do need to be made of basswood.Shaping is done on a 1" belt sander working on the round of the front wheel.The hook on both of these is inserted on the top of the body ,not on the bottom.I think the Mustad ck52s will be the hook for this lure.The original used what I think was a Herters kinked shank hook,which was a heavier hook than a Mustad #33903.

The first lure is made of basswood,the second one is balsa.I made these in about 1993,and haven't made any since. The lip on #1 is a part of the body, on #2 I think the lip came from a milk jug.

I've been making lures with rattles for a number of years,I always wanted to make them in small sizes,but most rattles need a larger body to support them.I found some really small glass rattles a few days ago.These will be used on Mustad hooks 33903-33900 and ck52s # 8,10,12. They will be made in floating,slow sinking and fast sinking models. Pictured is the first to be finished,a 5/16" x 1/2" balsa body with a glass rattle inserted.Mounted on a Mustad #10 33903hook. over all lenght 1 7/8"s.

Very nice work.Balsa unlike other hard body material will absorb water, when this happens the wood will swell.leading to a ruined popper. If I want rubber on a lure,I tie it on behind the body or use a different body material.I have different ideas of what a popper or other balsa lures represents.Bait fish are what I'm going to catch more fish on.The more material you attach to the fly the more wind resistant it will become. If I want a big fly,I'd rather go for lenght than bulk. Keep up the good work, will wait to see more.You've done a nice job on the shape of the bodies.What hooks did you use? Charlie

Anvil Apex Fly Tying Vice -msrp - $99.95

A couple of pencil poppers.The top one is on a unknown bait hook it did have an off set point.The body is balsa, 1/2in. x 2 7/8 in. OAL-5 1/4 in..This wasn't made to be fished,but I'm pretty sure I can throw it on my 10 W..I have 74 more of these hooks.Bottom popper is balsa on a Streamer hook that I no longer use.Body- 3/8 x 1 1/4 in. OAL- 3 in.

Thanks Bryan Your forgiven,and I'll ask for the same.To me It dosn't take long to paint.These aren't here to highlight the paint,but to show some body designs no one has seen before.Look closer.I could spend hours painting one bug,but for what.Others can paint better than me.I make bodies and I paint them,but making bodies is what I do best.I use paint from "Component Systems",it's designed for lures.And have used it since 1990. Yes of course forgiven and forgotten. How do you make the bodies? Do you hand carve them from balsa wood (as your name would suggest) using a rotary tool like a dremel? I see that you have quite the collection of different body styles, different angles on the front of the body to get different movement. Do you test all of these to see what kind of movement the front of the fly will cause in the water (fast and or slow)? Each fly except one in the photos is made of Balsa wood. I don't carve any.Using a knife or razor would be to time consuming, all shaping is done with sandpaper.I use a dremel to cup faces and ruff sanding on epoxy only. Oh and to drill holes for rattles.I need very few tools. Some ideas don't even get to the test stage.When deciding on the shape of the front,I'm usually thinking of sound over motion.Usually I know what results to expect before I start.I started doing this in the 80s.

Keep in touch please.

Thanks Bryan Your forgiven,and I'll ask for the same.To me It dosn't take long to paint.These aren't here to highlite the paint,but to show some body designs no one has seen before.Look closer.I could spend hours painting one bug,but for what.Others can paint better than me.I make bodies and I paint them,but making bodies is what I do best.I use paint from "Component Systems",it's designed for lures.And have used it since 1990.

I like to be prepared.You'll notice not many are alike.Each one has a different reason for being. Poppers - Popper divers & Skipping bugs Sliders - Rattlers -(floating,slow sinking,sinking) - Front props - Rear props - Crank baits - more poppers Hope you see something here you've not seen before.

Thanks. These go out as is.

Thank You Henry. First,what does B.F.R.L.mean?These have been dipped,my preferred method.I see you live in S.E. Florida.I'll be in North Lauderdale sometime In March.