Spoons, Rattles, and Shrimp

[Tailn'Jax 0]

I've been doing a bit of experimentation lately with some different things. Shrimp patterns are not something I normally throw, but I like the looks of them, and the ability to tie them bendback style really appeal to me lately. I was down in SW Florida a couple of weekends ago and had my box of redfish flies that I use at home. I got on a pile of nice tailing reds and was getting great shots at them, but because they were extremely spooky in the clear water, I had to lead them and wait for them to get to the fly. I threw several different patterns at them, but the thick grass always snagged me. The only fish I fed was in a pothole, and I watched him pick it up right off the bottom. Unfortunately, there was some dead grass and I ended up snagging it on the hookset. This got me thinking about weed guards, bend backs and weedless flies. We don't have any vegitation where I fish, so I never saw it as a problem. I now realize I need to change my approach when fishing over grassy bottom. I think I have come up with a solution, and I will tie some new patterns for my return to Matlacha.

I'm using the shrimp eyes as a weed guard, I think they will need to be extended for the grass, but this will work fine around home. Hopefully the bendback style will add to the fishability.

I have been putting together some shrimp/crab eyes myself lately with hard mono, colored glass beads, and tuff fleye. I like the ability to create different colors with different beads...

The consistency could be better, but I have noticed that the EP eyes seem to be varied as well.

 

I've also been wanting to try some rattles in my patterns for the recently dirty water as well, so I sat down Thursday evening to read Fly Fishing in Salt Waters new issue, and came across Honson Lau's Rattle Shrimp. It looks strikingly similar to my Marsh Demon, so I decided to give the rattles a try. You cant really see it, but its in there under the sparkle brush, encased in black mylar tubing. I'm really looking forward to throwing this on my next low tide mission.

 

And finally, with Flood Grass season upon us, and very few spoons left in my box, I decided to take the weekend and put together some spoons. I have had problems with durability in the past, so I picked up some 2-ton epoxy for the second coat, and hope that it will at least prolong the life of these time consuming patterns. These are mono frame, but I also tie them with a double wire frame as well, much like the Rich Waldner spoon.

mono frames ready for the epoxy suspension

first coat with 5-minute epoxy

finished fly after 2-ton coat, tail, and weed guard

underside with copper glitter, applied while epoxy was still wet

 

I turned the flies on the rotisserie for the second coat, but unfortunately the first coat has to be done one at a time on the vise. These are a pain to tie, but they are virtually weedless, and the reds crush them up in the grass. I hope the new epoxy combo does the trick, I really don't want to tie any more of these this season. Hope everyone enjoys, have a great week, and good fishing.

Ryan

[agn54 0]

Great looking flies Ryan. Love the idea of making the eyes with beads and Tuffleye.

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

Ryan, all great looking flies.

As you know, I primarily tie the mylar spoon fly. They usually last for two or three dozen reds at which point if the epoxy chips off or wears off, they can be recoated for another dozen or two. They are more laborious than the MOE style spoons but they are durable. Not sure if you saw my SBS on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/user/KirkDiet?feature=mhee if the link doesn't work, search for my channel name KirkDiet.

 

Anyway, I do tie the mono framed MOE spoons for bream. I use wire and mono in a different way than Waldner. I use thin SS leader or spinnerbait wire and tie it across the top of the hook shank, perpendicular to the shank using figure 8 wraps just like you tie in the mono at the rear except you don't pull it forward, just leave the wire sticking out longer than what your mono frame will be. On the size #8 bream spoon, I only use one piece of wire towards the rear about a third of the way from the back of the spoon, for the larger ones, I would probably use two pieces of cross wire. When you pull your mono forward for the teardrop shape, you put it over the wires, I like the way it keeps the mono frame up even with the hook shank. You can even bend the wires further up to give the mono frame a little more "cup" to the shape. (When you tie it with just the mono, the mono tends to just go straight from the tie in point at the rear to the tie in point in the front.) Also, I think the wires add a little cross strength. Right after the 5-minute epoxy sets, use a pair of flush cutting wire cutter pliers to trim the wire off flush with the outside of the wire frame. Then finish in your normal fashion with the 2-ton.

 

Kirk

[FlyFishin'Jam 0]

Very nice! I too am interested in the mono eyes with the beads, i have only used a lighter and the wifes nail polish or sharpies before.

[Tailn'Jax 0]

Kirk,

Your posts have been extremely informative. I was thinking the next step with this spoon would be to add an internal wire frame. I'm hesitant to use wire on the outside because of it's tendency to kink when manipulating it. Mono just has such a nice curve to it. I also like the idea of the cross wires, that should be quick and easy to add. Ive tried your Mylar spoon, I just cant seem to find any mylar around here that is big enough. I'm hoping the 2-yon does the trick, but if not that's my next step.

[Tailn'Jax 0]

Jam I will tell you that a lighter is not the tool to use with these. It's much too hard to get a good burn without either burning your fingers or lighting the mono and burning it too much. I use a hair burner (basically a battery powered electrode). It's much easier to control and gives you the ability to burn the mono down to the bead and pull the burned end into the hole on the bead to secure it before epoxy or goo application. I make a final coat with Sally hansens to add some extra protection.

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

Kirk,

Your posts have been extremely informative. I was thinking the next step with this spoon would be to add an internal wire frame. I'm hesitant to use wire on the outside because of it's tendency to kink when manipulating it. Mono just has such a nice curve to it. I also like the idea of the cross wires, that should be quick and easy to add. Ive tried your Mylar spoon, I just cant seem to find any mylar around here that is big enough. I'm hoping the 2-yon does the trick, but if not that's my next step.

 

Thanks, but I don't always get it right or sometimes mislead. When I said thin SS leader wire or spinnerbait wire for the cross wire, its not really very thin. Its thick enough that it needs to be bent with a small pliers but not so heavy that you need a bending machine.

I order my mylar on-line from Pat Dunlap, owner/operator of Cascade Crest Tools. He has the mylar weaving machines and supplies most companies that do sell it; ordering from him, just gives you a wide selection.

 

Kirk

[HOW Cape Fear Chapter 0]

Maybe I live under a rock but I have never seen anyone use mono with a bead rather then just melt the mono into a ball. I love it. I will definitely implament this into my fly tying. Thanks for the great idea. Nice ties too. I will be tying that shrimp pattern that thing is sexy.

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

Cape Fear, I doubt you live under a rock but yes, this method has been around for years. I discovered it when a client from Houston brought some of his shrimp flies over to fish with. He used a yellow and red bead overcoated with epoxy. You still have to burn the mono so the bead doesn't slip off until you have it epoxied.

I like using a tiny black bead on the tip and followed by either a larger black one or some other color combo of one or two beads. That little black one on the tip makes for a nice pupil effect.

 

Ryan, I like the idea of the hair burner for the mono. I've heard of using caterizers for burning deer hair and synthetics to make plastic eye sockets in the material but I've never been able to find one. Would a hair burner be located in the women's makeup section of the department store? I'd like to find something locally without having to order on-line.

 

Kirk

[Tailn'Jax 0]

I got mine at the fly shop, but they are used regularly in medical applications as well. You may be able to find one if you look at a medical supply shop. I am a rep for a company that has them, I am going to try to buy some from them if the pricing is not out of line.

[HOW Cape Fear Chapter 0]

That's what I love about fly tying you are always learning. I tied up the shrimp pattern you posted. They look sexy.

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

...I am a rep for a company that has them, I am going to try to buy some from them if the pricing is not out of line.

 

I thought reps had bags of samples of their stuff??

 

Kirk

[Tailn'Jax 0]

@HOW, thats awesome, let me know if you catch anything on it, I have not had the chance to fish it yet

@Kirk, I do, but not the entire catalog, thats just one of many of my suppliers.

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

...@Kirk, I do, but not the entire catalog, thats just one of many of my suppliers.

 

Contact the supplier and tell them you have some doctors possibly interested could they send you some samples. One particular doctor in New Orleans, you don't have to tell them I'm a Doctor of Fly Tying, is really interested.

 

Kirk

[Capt Bob LeMay 0]

Kirk, I've been doing business with Pat Dunlop since the business name was Rogue River and he's the man to talk to about any kind of custom braid, mylar, etc. I've had great results from him over the years (and still tie on one of their early, durable simple vises...