Jump to content
Fly Tying

Capt Bob LeMay

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    1,873
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Capt Bob LeMay

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    Everything that swims in the 'Glades
  • Security
    22

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    south Florida

Recent Profile Visitors

15,786 profile views
  1. Thanks... as always, don’t want to wear out my welcome...
  2. That's a puzzler... the link is working just fine for me... Perhaps, because it was a conversation instead of a regular posting - I'm the only one who can access it... I'll try to copy it and post it here (if moderators will allow...).
  3. I long ago pretty much gave up on boxes for the flies I use for the salt (the only exception are bonefish and other small flies that do lend themselves to boxes..). Instead I sleeve each fly individually in the same sleeves I've used for many years back when I was tying for shops... Each sleeved fly is then placed in a one quart ziplock bag - and those bags all go into a small cooler that is what I use instead of a tackle box on my skiff (coolers actually work well as dry storage - much, much better than any tackle box I've ever used. Just another of those "ask me how I know" propositions since some years I swear I'm in my skiff more than I'm out of it working as a guide... Here's a pic of the plastic sleeves I mentioned... At a glance you can see if any water has gotten into one... Any fly that's been used gets rinsed off in freshwater then allowed to dry thoroughly before going back in a sleeve and into the lineup...
  4. Thirty years ago I wrote a chapter for Veverka's book Innovative Saltwater Flies... Sorry to hear of his passing.
  5. You might want to post the manufacturer of that vise since each outfit does their own...
  6. Here's my latest fishing report... you can view it here... https://www.microskiff.com/threads/everglades-backcountry-report-flamingo-9-january.86658/ Only one of the two days were fly fishing - and of course in tough weather conditions the day after a cold front... clear blue skies, cold, wind blowing - and fish... read the report.. For fish holding in current the way speckled trout, ladyfish, pompano, and spanish mackeral do... we mostly fish them across the current and allow the fly to swing down current towards where they're holding as we strip our flies with a snap and a pause... Almost any swimming shrimp or baitfish pattern would work (when the winds are calm - we like to up small popping bugs...), but most days a variation of Bob Clouser's famous pattern is my first choice, in size 2/0... I call it the Whitewater Clouser and like most of what we use in mangrove jungle territory it comes with a weedguard... Hook: Mustad 34007, 2/0 Thread: Danville's flat waxed nylon in fire orange for body and eyes, fl. green or fl. chartreuse for wing and head... Eyes: largest beadchain, the size you find for the pull cords on vertical blinds Wing: bleached white bucktail, then pearl flash, then fl. green or fl. chartreuse dyed bucktail over all twice the hook's length.. Flash: Pearl Flashabou, with staggered ends (three full length strands, doubled to six, then again to 12 strands) Weedguard: Malin's coffee colored trolling wire, size #5
  7. Forgot to mention one other very good use for the odd foam block or foam sheet. For many years I worked boat and fishing shows (even a few fly only shows...) as a tyer - usually sharing space with whichever fly shop I was filling orders for. In recent years I've been busy enough guiding that I've backed off a bit (and I'm no longer filling orders for shops...). Every show I worked from out of state back to Florida was a different proposition - some were a treat to work - others not so much... In windy conditions outdoors or places where your booth was set near outside doors it was always a challenge to not only set up your table and get all of your necessaries sorted out - but also to be able to set up a display so folks attending the show could see what you were doing - and be able to get a good look at the flies and/or lures you'd displayed.... That's where odd pieces of hard and occasionally soft foam were very handy. The only thing extra I needed was a roll of double sided tape and a box of toothpicks... With the double-sided tape I could anchor the foam pieces wherever needed and the toothpicks not only allowed me to join various blocks together - but had other more important uses.. Toothpicks are invaluable in securing flies for display on foam blocks (when you weren't just sticking the fly hook to the foam..). With a big fly it was simple to lay it on top of the foam then use a toothpick through the eye of the hook to hold it in place at the exact angle you wanted to display it. With flies that were reverse tied (hook point up instead of down - like bonefish bugs, Bendback patterns, and others) you first stuck the toothpick (or just half a toothpick) down into the foam -then set the eye of the hook onto the "spike" you'd created to show it to best advantage... Here's one or two patterns that always benefited from being displayed in that manner... Big Eye Bendback, 1/0 Mustad 34007, bent Bonefish bugs in size #4 Mustad 34007, the top two are my version of the Mitch Howell pattern, the bottom a Clear Charlie in pink pearl and tan the Natural Slinky, 1/0 Mustad 34007, bent Thread: flat waxed nylon, Danville's, red (#056) Body: gold Diamond braid, doubled then wound from the hook bend back to within a bit less than 1/4" of the hook eye Underwing: sparse amount of dyed brown bucktail, Flash: gold Flashabou, doubled and re-doubled with staggered ends - 10 to as much as 20 strands on top of underwing Wing (and tail): Two dyed brown maribou blood quill, mated with curve inwards and tied in on top of the flash Collar: One wide webby saddle hackle (natural variant or furnace or badger..) with as much of the fluff left in place as possible, tied in by the butt then palmered densely forward to the hook eye and snapped free - not cut to end... Head: built up with tying thread back over some of the collar and whip finished to end. Finish: Thread super-glued then allowed to dry then eyes painted on top of the finished head - when dry final finish is FlexCoat a rodbuilder's epoxy... When I started tying for shops, more than 40 years ago now... I was told that first I had to hook the angler... At the end of each show all the foam display items were broken down - and only the flies came home with me (always had much more foam around than I ever wanted to deal with... ). "Fly anglers wanted"
  8. If you’re tight with your local fly shop... ask if you can take a look at their Wapsi catalog... It’s a wholesale only deal so anything you want they’d have to order for you but the important part is they have excellent color photos of all their materials... Years ago as a beginning commercial tyer that was one of the ways I learned about materials available to me - particularly stuff that I’d never seen or handled before. Lots and lots of great materials that I’ll never use as a saltwater tyer - but occasionally something I just had to try...
  9. Like most I’m inundated with various foams that come in packaging. I’ve managed to use a bit of it off and on (particularly the foam trays that fresh veggies come in from the grocery store). They make convenient drying trays for flies and bucktail jigs when you’re doing production work. Here's a pic of one of the many trays and and foam containers ready to serve as drying racks for orders I''m working on... If memory serves this was a tray that mushrooms came in... I have them in all different shapes and sizes (larger ones very handy for larger or long flies...). Since they stack together nicely they don't take up much space either... I also have a single hard foam cube on my tying bench that serves as a pincushion for various needles, dressmaker’s pins and assorted bits of trolling wire and other sharp items. It does take a year or two to wear it out then it’s tossed and replaced with a new cube...
  10. An FYI for anyone heading down south Florida way - we're just starting our winter night time tarpon season -small fish, average 20 to 40lbs - but very hungry and all of them are sightfished under big city bridges between Miami and Miami Beach...
  11. Last year... most of my phone calls were cancellations... This year I'm hoping to turn that around and get my guiding business back on its feet. My only other goal is to stay healthy enough to keep on keeping on... On the plus side I'm still in good enough shape to pole my skiff all day long (and did so yesterday down at Flamingo with two anglers aboard...). "Fly anglers wanted"....
  12. Caloosa... that small minnow pattern looks great... What size hook is that?
  13. For anyone using larger hooks... the best sharpener I’ve ever had for hooks is a 4” mill bastard file. Not something that’s ever on my skiff, this is strictly a shop tool since we’re in salt or brackish waters. On the water I use a ceramic sharpener for touching up hookpoints a bit. I like the files enough that I buy them by the box, Nicholson, six to the box. In use, the file is mounted in one of their sturdy solid plastic handles.
  14. Here's some advice I provided today to a fly angler over on another forum. I figure it's good enough to pass along for anyone headed down to places that hold the small fish... https://www.microskiff.com/conversations/flamingo-advice.128586/#convMessage-257155 The place mentioned, Coot Bay, is the first bay you come to when you fish out of Flamingo (Everglades National Park) and head back up into the backcountry up Buttonwood canal... As always "Fly anglers wanted"
  15. I look at all the nice photos of flies on this site (and a few others), some are professional quality - others not so much. Here's a simple tip that I used back when I was writing articles for magazines and needed graphics (pics) that were easy to see... Not hard at all to neglect the background your fly is posed in front of (and if it's a complicated background your eyes struggle to see the fly at times... Back to the tip... I went to my local craft store and bought sheets of craft foam in different colors - might have been as many as ten of them, but probably less than that for the same kind and thickness of foam you'd use to make Gartside's Gurgler... In use they're simplicity itself - not hard to stand up a sheet of foam using a couple of clothes pins and curving the sheet as you place it behind your vise. Pretty simple to take three or four shots of the fly with a different contrasting colors behind the fly... Once you've taken your photos, run them up on your computer then look at each color in turn to be able to select the background color that works the best... After a while, you'll know which color works the best for a white fly or a tan fly and you won't need multiple photos at all. I discard the ones with backgrounds that don't work and only keep the ones I like. At the same time I'll experiment a bit with lighting, using a combination of artificial light and natural light until I get the effect I want. Quite a bit of difference between this kind of lighting and using flash supported pics. Afterwards you get to choose which you like - and as always the simpler the background - the better your flies show. I also use those same sheets with the fly or other item laid on top of them horizontally or raised at an angle... Those foam sheets were really cheap - all those years ago. I don't think I paid $10 for all of them and they're probably not much more today (and I still have every one of them ready to use as needed... Now for a pic or two... Seaducers laid flat on the sheet The loop end of a class tippet done in close-up (for serious closeup work I always use a tripod and a timed shutter release to absolutely eliminate even the possibility of camera shake... ) A Woolhead Mullet with a dark purple background using flash photography... With bigger flies I'll sometimes use a pair of locking forceps to hold it as though it were in a tying vise (the forceps are locked up vertical with a mini clamp so they're stable - and at the exact angle desired... Prince of Tides (my version of Flip Pallot's famous pattern) with a lavender background Starting point for a Whitewater Clouser with the tan foam background far enough to the rear that it's not in focus at all...
×
×
  • Create New...