Jump to content
Fly Tying

Capt Bob LeMay

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Capt Bob LeMay

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    Everything that swims in the 'Glades
  • Security

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    south Florida

Recent Profile Visitors

16,722 profile views
  1. Thanks, mostly everything I do was taught to me by someone local over the years. I’ve been very fortunate in that regard…
  2. I've been keeping busy as well filling lure orders for leadheads and bucktail jigs... Here's a pic... Helps fill in down time when I'm not on the water. I'm still tying but only for my needs as a guide each day...f
  3. Sorry it's taken so long to get back to this thread... Here's the standard Deceiver in one of the colors that I did for shops over the years that shows how a calf tail head/body works (compared to the usual bucktail version... ). Shops ordered them in green/whit, red/white, blue/white as well as all yellow, red/yellow, pink/yellow, etc. Occasionally I filled orders for Deceivers with an all grizzly tail instead of the white or yellow tail... Hook: Mustad 34007, 1/0 Thread: Danville's flat waxed nylon, color of choice.. Tail: Saddle hackles from relatively inexpensive strung saddles bundles, 4-6", three on a side totaling six with curves facing inwards, tied in as a unit, just forward of the hook bend - on top of the shank... lash: Your choice, Flashabou Accent or ordinary Flashabou in pearl, six to ten strands on each side of the tail with staggered ends stopping just short of the end of the saddles... Body: Pearl Diamond braid (my own variation from Lefty's original mylar in silver...) Collar: Generous amount of bleached white or dyed calftail from area near the tip end (longer hairs, but still straight - not curled). Bundle of calftail tied in on top of the shank about 1/8" from the hook eye, then rolled around the hook shank to evenly distribute it. Note: hair much reach past the hook bend... then add an accent color on top if desired... Head: Built up tying thread, then whip finished and super glued (Krazy Glue - original thin formula), followed by painted on eyes if you choose...
  4. The effects of that virus are felt everywhere I suppose. Last year all my phone calls were cancellations. I was still able to fish (the Ten Thousand Islands part of the Everglades just north of the Park) but hardly a single customer aboard… So far at least last spring my bookings were almost back to normal. Summer is actually our slowest time of the year for bookings… Like everyone else, can’t wait for things to get back to normal.
  5. Great report Philly… I find myself wondering if the folks in Canada are aware of what their government is up to. This from a guy who’s Mom was born and raised in Ontario…
  6. That “sting” on a sting ray is actually a solid bone spear with serrations on each side like the barbs on fishhooks… It’s not located on the end of the tail - instead it’s located on the base of the tail, right on top, concealed within a thin covering of flesh… It looks harmless, like a small finger at the base of the tail… That ray is a “one trick pony”… If stepped on or molested in any way - their only response is to elevate that spear and try to skewer that attacker - then flee at high speed.. That barb will absolutely ruin your day and your only relief will come from pouring water as hot as you can stand on the wound until you can get to an ER… While I’m talking about sting ray wounds anyone that wades in warm salt or brackish waters should learn all they can about “vibrio” infections…. They can be absolutely life threatening. Put simply, any wound or abrasion that you got while swimming or wading should be taken to the nearest ER or your own doctor, period… Tell them to check for vibrio - they’ll know about it. Delay a day or two and they may not be able to save that arm or leg… or your life. ”Vibrio” is what the news media call “flesh eating bacteria”…
  7. We’ve seen this sort of response down here in south Florida years ago as well… The bulk of the relief goes to cities while small isolated rural areas wait and wait…. Hope that’s not the case where y’all are…
  8. For smaller Deceivers, instead of bucktail, try calf tail (old timers used to call it kiptail…). I’ve also dispensed with any sort of Mylar body at times when going down to hook sizes as small as #4…. Going the other direction at times I’ve done Deceivers as big as seven inches on hooks as big as 4/0 or 5/0. Will add a pic or two when I can get to my desktop…. Here you go..this is the only one in my photo album at present. This full bore heavily dressed Deceiver was called the Southern Deceiver back when I was tying for shops. The first shop that carried it was the Southern Angler in Stuart, FL. Hook: Ex-sharp, ex- strong Tiemco or Owner 4/0 Tail: six wide, webby saddles (6 to 8" strung saddles), with two long perfect dyed olive grizzly saddles outside at least one inch longer than white saddles Flash: 10 to 12 strands of pearl Flashabou Accent (or Crystal Flash) doubled and staggered on each side Body: Pearl diamond braid (custom made for me in a larger size) doubled- laid along the top of the hook shank then wound over to within 1/8" of hook eye Collar: Heavily dressed bucktail extended back 1/2" from end of hook, Peacock herl 8 to 12 over the collar and two short matching grizzly saddles on each side to extend the barred appearance from tail to head Throat: bright red synthetic wool Thread: Danville's flat waxed, with head built up to accommodate painted eyes.... Later on today I'll check to see if I have any smaller, simpler Deceivers to add...
  9. Another week without any fly anglers... Here's a tease anyway... This little guy, we estimated at between 10 and 11 feet - full of fight when released "Fly anglers wanted" The full report is over on Microskiff at https://www.microskiff.com/threads/everglades-backcountry-report-23-august.93413/
  10. Over on the saltwater side of things I’ve noted a big difference between older tyers and folks who only came into the hobby in the last 20 years or so. Most of them are tying with synthetic materials while guys like me are still using feathers, fur, and other more traditional stuff. It’s very noticeable to me…
  11. Love those Charlies Dave... Years ago when a lot of my shop orders were for bonefish bugs I did a variety of Crazy Charlies and similar stuff - a #4 hook (Mustad 34007) was the standard but I also filled orders with #6 and #2 hooks... When I did them with V-rib - they were called Clear Charlies... Shops that catered to anglers headed for the Bahamas always sold a bunch of them... The only difference is that mine were only ever done with bead chain eyes...
  12. Just sent you a PM...
  13. Those small poppers would work well on baby tarpon and snook in the backcountry… Very well done!
  14. Yep, these are on #4 Mustad 34007 hooks and in a size or two larger - small permit.... I've been thinking about a version that would pretty closely imitate a sand flea (mole crab) without those sili legs legs and with a very short maribou tail.. This pattern, I believe was originally meant for fishing the Turneffe Islands in the Caribbean. I got regular orders for it back when I was tying for shops in south Florida... I haven't had much use for them in the backcountry of the Everglades where you'll never see a bonefish until you're halfway between Flamingo and Islamorada (we fish the dark waters to the north of that area and are rarely found in Florida Bay...).
  15. What Philly describes is exactly what I found with rubber legs... all those years ago - so I just quit using them. When Sili-legs came along they were exactly what I needed. Yes, they'll tear and break - but they won't cause the problems that rubber did. Here's a pic of one pattern I do that uses the Sili-legs - my version of Mathews Turneffe crab...
  • Create New...