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streamtrout

fly line to leader connection

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I usually cut off the welded loop on the fly line, and then nail knot about 6 inches of amnesia to the fly line with a perfection loop on the other end. I then attach my leader to the amnesia with a loop to loop connection.

 

Nail knoting your leader directly to the fly line has a nice small profile though, and goes through your guides nicely.

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To start with. No best. Lots of favourite ways that have advantages and disadvantages to each. Its up to you to find out what suits you best in your fishing situation.

 

First of all you need to master one method that you can do anywhere with the minimum of kit, and fuss. One day you will be away fishing, in the middle of a huge hatch, fish rising everywhere, and your connection will fail. The chance of this happening is inversely proportional to your ability to fix it, and the speed with which you can do it. There are very few fixed rules in fly fishing. The most commonly encountered one is Murphy's Law, (If anything can go wrong it will, when it is most inconvenient). You don't have to use this fitting all the time. You may prefer others, but you will use it sooner or later. Make sure you have it. It is better to use another fitting that you prefer not to, than go home early.

 

For me this method is the Greys loop, done without threading the loop up the line. All I need for this is some heavy line and my snips or knife.

 

There are other methods that are best dealt with in groups.

 

Loops made from the fly line. Two methods here, the welded loop (tutorials on making these are available on You Tube) and the stripped core loop. With the second a small section of coating is stripped from the core. The line is folded back on itself and the stripped core whipped to the line with tying thread. The whippings are usually then coated. Neither is repairable on location, they both require equipment that isn't usually available. Both can be quite bulky.

 

Knots. Lots of these. They offer a strong reliable connection. Many are easy to replace on location if needed. Create some bulk. They do tend to make your fly line crack immediately behind the knot. This can result in a hinge point at the end of your fly line. Not good for casting. If you find you just can not turn the leader over at all look at the connection to see if this has happened.

 

Connectors. Braided loops, and screw in metal loops.The little metal eyes you screw into your fly line have their followers. Two problems, weight and they open up the end of your fly line to let water in. Braided loops are simple and don't build up much bulk. It is said that they grip the fly line like a Chinese finger puzzle. They don't. If they did they would not slide off at in opportune moments, which I have had happen. They add enough bulk to mean you must pull them through your rod rings. They also tend to hinge. Most have to be glued or whipped in place making them difficult to replace on location.

 

Super Glue Connection. The knotless tapered leader is threaded up the core of the fly line and secured with super glue. This is not replaceable on location. Eventually the fly line will crack immediately behind the connection. There is no noticeable bulk with this connection. I have used this the last three seasons and found it very reliable.

 

Those are the main kinds of connection. Now it is up to you to decide what would be best in your situation.

 

Cheers,

C.

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Get Roman Moser minicon braided loops and attach them to fly line with a touch of good glue. Most reliable and easiest method I have used for years with no problems at all.

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Crack... I didn't know about Grey's loops. Got a question. It isn't clear in step 8 whether you just slide the wrappings as far as where the mono comes out of the fly line, or over it, or beyond. Which is it, or does it matter?

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Thanks. Just got some new line and I think I'll try it.

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