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Fly Tying

cphubert

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Posts posted by cphubert


  1. At the International Symposium a few years back a tier from Italy tied all his dry flies like that and lead me to believe that many European tiers did. He tailed and hackled first, then dubbed the body, and whipped finished just behind the hackle. I have one of his flies some place ......... if I find it I'll post a photo. I asked about line twist and he smiled and said "no wings , no twist"


  2. My smallest rear hooks are usually 6's attached with braid (green spider wire) with beads between the hooks to prevent rear hook fouling. you can tie your favorite streamer patterns dressing the rear hook to match or use your imagination, lots of fun. They make great trolling flies, lots of action and you get better hookups with the shorter hooks vs the 9x- 10x long Carrie Stevens hooks. have fun with it


  3. Anyone have any Anvil model 70 scissors they want to part with? They are left hand and no longer made, and I am on my last pair. Going back to back to right hand scissors, any southpaws try the adjustable scissors (with the knurled nuts) how do they hold up? Until the model 70 I cut righty but find it hard to keep them in my hand while tying. Any advise from other southpaws? Thanks in advance.


  4. I have brain tanned a few deer hides but unsure if you would be okay to use them in fly applications. Check online, tanning can be a lot of work skinning, scraping (even for hair on and rabbit skin is very thin!), preserving, stretching, and breaking in after drying. I have seen bottled tanning products but never have seen them used. Commercially tanned rabbit skins $ 6.00 - 8.00 each? You still have to dye them or use as is that is a process all in itself.


  5. A little late on the post but the Norvise bobbin works well with the vise or any other rotary. In the early 70's I had a Universal rotary and its drawback was the bobbin or lack of an automatic one. I tie on a Norvise and a Dyna-King pro use the norvise bobbins to tie and have all my S&M bobbins still loaded to cover the heads for color match. It did take a little to get used to the bobbin eating the thread at first but like anything else it is what you get used to. Never tried 16/0 in the auto bobbin can not comment.


  6. I have 3 large LED's on a track above my bench that flood my work at different angles. Crackaig I finally bite the bullet on Norm's setup mounted the vise and post to a plywood (1") shelf bolted to the bottom of my bench I adjust my chair to change the positioning for long periods at the vise. Great vise for saving a lot of time on most work but I still like my Dyna-King Pro, wish I could get it to spin like the NorVise.


  7. I picked one up @ Cabela's on sale 19.99, list for 39.99. they are imported, fair to good quality, not as nice as the ghost or custom nets but also a lot less money. so far I like the net I do not notice any difference in weight from my catskill mesh net. I planned on lacing the rubber bag onto my catskill net (it does need a new bag,torn from pulling hooks) would like to find a reasonable rubber bag to replace mine without unlacing the new one. I was told they are better for fish health, but they better then barbed hooks are used no tangles with tandems are any other hook so far.


  8. After a long time I bought one at the Fly Fishing Show from Norm. Takes a little to get used to with the automatic bobbin. The vise and system are top notch high quality tools. I use it for high volume tying and it is perfect you can spin bodies faster and tighter with very consistent results. I learned to tie on a Universal Rotary in the 70's and Norm's excellent Automatic bobbin really makes the Nor Vise work faster. I am using the standard jaws but would recommend the fine point for hooks smaller than 16's, I have large fingers and find it hard to manage fine material behind the hook proficiently. I still use my Dyna King Pro but not as much,time will tell.


  9. I always keep a master logbook of my paterns (tail length, wing height, any particulars on dubing or dying ect) you can measure the tail and keep you master for the patern. place the master in your vise then with masking tape on the vise i mark the tail length on the tape. it acually made it easeir to see the tails as the tape acts as a profile plate without glare. I have a offset extension so i look over the top of the vise. willing to bet your customers will not see the diffrence but i always wanted to be consistant. like Crackaig said you can always trim but that adds more time. stick with denver, hell i don't even know what or who the others are.


  10. commercial tying is not as easy prospect even with tax id's and buying wholesale. most wholesalers require min orders (Rumpe ect) and if you do not sell material you are better off buying retail, not to mention the material you receive that is not up to your standards that you try to barter or sell at shows. you will have a lot of deductions! but may not be able to afford the loss in the long run. buy hackle retail at shows or shops where you can check quality of what you need. to be profitable you obtain whole hides and skins and learn to dye. i started as a kid tying bucktail teasers , jigs, & basic fly patterns now i only tie for a few old customers and friends and i am not concerned with the next new hot fly! if you have to meet deadlines you may not like tying any more it cuts into your fishing time.

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