FIN-ITE 34

I can tell you for certain that the most you can learn from watching will be from Daniel D. Holm and Niklaus Bauer videos. You can find them in the English versions also if you need to. They will show you how to create big profile flies with little weight and less water absorption.

Some great tube fly techniques with easy change hook/wire trace looped to a fluoro leader section.

You will not see too much of those big honking chunks of zonker strips that get really heavy to pitch. Check out the lycra fabric tails from fishon.it, I ordered mine direct from Italy but there are some predator fly shops that are now carrying them in the US.

Since the op used bead instead of wraps, that is not likely to be his problem.

 

What I see in the picture is the combo of down eye and bead have created a jig that has more bead above the eye than below the eye and when the leader turns the eye upwards the bead rolls the hook over.

 

 

Looking back at the photo, I think tjm makes a very good point/observation.

If you are planning on using only CDC then I would suggest that you stay with a lighter weight hook. As had been suggested the Tiemco 2488 is a good choice with lesser expensive versions being Umpqua U201 and JS 510.

The link I posted is by Devin.

Yes, I used the red wing case and silver wire on all.

For the olive I use Danville olive thread, ice dub brown olive, natural pheasant tail, and root beer krystal flash for the legs.

The purple, UTC purple thread, ice dub UV purple, black pheasant tail and black krystal flash.

I have never coated the thread with resin.

Not sure what you mean when you say wings.

I tie all my jig patterns with the wing-case facing up in the normal position and here is why.

http://www.tacticalflyfisher.com/blog/wingcases-shellbacks-and-wings-to-invert-or-not-to-invert-that-is-the-question/

And yes, that is the "Tactical" Fly Fisher.

Well, I do tie those so I can answer your question and it never entered my mind that the S.O.S. pattern would be the only pattern you plan to tie.

I tie them in size 14-18, mostly in the original black pattern as JOSH. However I have also done well with an olive and purple. Both with the red wing case.

I like the idea of tying in the legs first. Very nice.

For dry flies, one of my favorites is the Ausable Bomber.

Not a trout or grayling.

Spiders are among the best patterns of all to try for different species. I love small dark spiders for roach, rudd and dace. That said, brighter colours are also great fly patterns for bluegills, crappies and other US “panfish”!

Short and sweet ... but something tells me you make it look easier than it really is. This is another design I don't usually try, since I'm not into catching 2 or 3 inch panfish.

 

But it sure is a pretty fly.

North Country Spiders were not designed to catch 2-3 inch panfish, there were created to catch trout and grayling, sizes measured in pounds and tens of inches.

What size and style are you looking for?

Just another CA glue.

It is similar to a Cinberg or Jingler, where a soft hackle is wound in front. Lucian uses CDC in place of the typical hackle used in the two I mentioned.

Flagler has got too much time on his hands.

Good winter/cold water fly. However I prefer the Egan version by using the rainbow sow scud dubbing for the thorax which completes the "rainbow".

And I thought that was a shot of (name any highway) in NJ from last Thursday.

Yes the 6/0 and 16/0 are two twisted strands. A neat thing with these two sizes is you can easily untwist the two strands for a quick split thread dubbing technique.

I use the 16/0 for most of my dry and nymph tying and have found the strength to be excellent.

I observed one of those in action a couple of years ago. They were trimming back a transmission line R.O.W. through Wildcat Ridge in NJ and they sound as ominous as they look.

The snowshoe really does float great but doesn't have the movement the CDC has.

I too have no problems with CDC and fish slime. I do what Lucian does by a rinse and rub between the fingers to wash away the slime. I press the fly on something absorbent to get most of the water out and then apply one of the powder type dry fly floatants.

The past two years I have been using hydrophobic fumed silica instead of the commercial floatants with absolutely great results. I purchased a two quart bag of the stuff for $17.00 from EPOXYUSA and I will never buy another little bottle of the stuff for six bucks until I need another bottle and brush.

My comment for the "GSTQ" delay was for down stream casts and takes. In that situation you have to wait for the fish to turn on the take, otherwise you will pull the fly out of the fishes mouth before you can set the hook.

That being said, I find that while fishing small creeks, of which I do a lot, that the size of the fish coupled with the size of the fly has an impact on my hookup percentage. Most times I'm fishing some full and easy to see fly in the hard to see light of a hemlock ravine. A size 14 Ausable Bomber or Humpy is not the easiest fly for a small fish to close its mouth around and you have to expect a goodly number of missed fish.

And as for a strip set? That's not going to happen with a 5 or 6x tippet, as even a 6" trout will cause a fairly good number of broken of flies in their mouth. Besides that, a fine wire, barbless dry fly hook does not require much pressure to sink the point. A slight lift of the rod tip is all that is required.

I do however use the strip set exclusively when fishing with a heavy leader for pike, stripers and bluefish where a stout hook requires a ton more pressure to bury a, yes Mike, barbless 6/0 hook.

Strip setting a small creek trout?! Now the thought of that is just hilarious, best one I've heard all week.

And as redietz stated, a downstream take requires the "God save the Queen" before lifting the rod tip.

Well then just eat the pickle!

I fully agree with Devin Olsen as pointed out by PT.

Only if there is a chance of meeting up with the likes of an Aeryn Sun or Xev Bellringer while in space.