Sandan
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Posts posted by Sandan
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On 4/21/2024 at 5:16 AM, flyflinger said:If it's for Elk, the 300 Weatherby trumps the 300 Win Mag. Or if you're into the modern cartridges, and heavy-for-caliber bullets, 300 PRC . . . those critters can absorb a lot of terminal energy and keep right on truckin' !
Regards,
That sure can. So far my .270 shooting 150 gr. Nosler partitions have done the job for me. I'm thinking about a .300 PRC or going back to an '06
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1 hour ago, DFoster said:As far as I know-
A member of our church retired and was moving out of state. He told me that he tried his hand at fly tying back in the 1970s but it wasn't for him and he sold off most of his stuff. Prior to moving he handed me a shoebox full of materials (what remained of his materials). The contents were old and most were still in that wonderful old style packaging that I remember as a kid growing up. Anyway the items were fairly common but the box did include a very small patch of polar bear and a piece of fur hide that had the words "badger or wolverine" written on the leather. I can't really be sure but the color on the hide is a coffee brown that to my eye looks closer to wolverine than badger. My "expert" opinion being based on internet photos 🙄 Anyway, whatever it is, the undercoat makes wonderful dubbing. The fur itself is about 2" long and soft. I use it mostly for wings and tails.
Very cool. I was wondering because wolverine is surely not a common material.
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Just saw this. What a sad day for sure.
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23 hours ago, DFoster said:I finished tying some flies and had a few bits of stuff left on the desk. I also had one remaining size 16 scud hook. So why not throw them all together?
WOLVERINE
Nice bugs DFoster. Wolverine you say?
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4 hours ago, Poopdeck said:Thanks Sandan. I didn’t know dyed peacock heels were out there. Thanks for the heads up.
My pleasure. https://charliesflybox.com/products/bleached-dyed-peacock-eyes?variant=40538697203850
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On 4/2/2024 at 6:10 PM, Poopdeck said:I wanted to jump in on the challenge but work had me very busy lately. Anyway, I had two Polish quills left and this was the only fly I finished since I broke the second one. I’ll have to get some more and try again.
Poopdeck, that is a beauty. I usually buy the dyed peacock herls on the stem and use my thumb nail to strip 'em.
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3 hours ago, Heff2 said:catskill style quill body mahogany dun
hook: dry #14
tail: light grey dunn fibres
body: stripped furnace quill
wind: teal
hackle: light grey dunn
thread: dark brown
Next challenge fly is… The Pigsticker
Very nice
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Aquel does it for me, except for CDC. Loon Locsha does the CDC thing. I was lucky and picked up a 4oz. guide size at my local shop for 15 bucks.
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Nice start to the month!
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Had to add, I was glad I picked up the CDC loop wing emerger challenge. I tied a few of 'em and they proved to be absolutely killer on Sunday.
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No problem, sir. To be more specific regarding the next challenge, let's see a catskill style quill body mahogany dun. A blue quill would be OK too.
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CDC loop wing emerger.
Hook: U202 size 20
Thread: UTC 70 gray brown
Tails/Legs: Hun fibers
Abdomen: muskrat gray dyed and stripped peacock herl
Wing: CDC of course. Trouthunter lt. Dun.
Thorax: Semperfli BWO kapok dubbing.
Next up: A Catskill style quill body dry fly. Tiers choice.
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I'll take the cdc loop wing emerger
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Just like Rick Takahashi. It's a great low cost multi-lifetime supply!
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Such nice ties everyone. Here's a size 20 parachute BWO for this weekend's outing
Hook: TMC 100
Thread: 12/0 semperfli olive
Post: dark dun Z-lon
Tail: dark dun micro fibbets
Abdomen: BWO dyed and stripped peacock herl
Hackle: whiting saddle, gray grizzly variant
Abdomen: adams gray superfine
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Hats off to a great ice season and many more!
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Here's my 2 cents. Your progress is very good, keep on working it'll only get better. Try to make your dubbing noodle tighter, It'll make the definition between the front and back sections of the ant more distinct. That brings up the question of how. I mostly do it this way. I moisten my fingertips and get 'em mostly dry, so there's friction between my thumb tip and index finger tip, twist in only one direction and only from the top of the noodle to the bottom. Some folks use dubbing wax.
https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/fly-tying-dubbing/459202
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On 3/20/2024 at 1:41 PM, john1962 said:When I first started to ty my own flys I bought a Paar of dr. slick barb removal pliers. I only ever fished with barbs, 😂 should done more research. But that's OK, size 16-18 I will buy barbless then.
Tightlines
Crush the barbs.
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Beauty rod Steve!
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26 minutes ago, SalarMan said:Thank you sir...much obliged.
My pleasure. BTW, that bone dry is good stuff.
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DK Pro user here. I grease the collet threads lightly and the shaft of the jaws.. I don't think that does anything but what the hey. Lithium grease for me. a little dab'l do ya.
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44 minutes ago, SalarMan said:I am making the switch to Solarez UV resin to finish the heads on my salmon flies. I always admire the superb finish on Norm's wets and want to get that same quality on my flies. Before getting started I do have a couple of questions. How long does it usually take for the resin to cure under the UV light? Is it better to cure t under direct sunlight?
Thanks in advance.
GeorgeI've found Solarez bone dry to take about 10 seconds to dry hard.
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On 3/8/2024 at 9:51 PM, john1962 said:I just want to spend the time and try to tie the right way. Bad habits come easy and are hard to shake. That's a proven pattern for that area, and I plan to fish what works.
Never been to the eastern sierras.
Tightlines
I hear you. In that vein it's the mastery of technique(s)% rather than using an exact recipe list, cause they all work at one time or another.
Greenwell
in Artistic & Classic Salmon Flies
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Another beauty tie George.