andresere

Machined hardened tool steel finished in black oxide, from what I can see. The only part on this whole vise that I can see that is cast is the mounting c clamp.

I'm heading to get the oring tomorrow and see if I can find a replacement jaw adjusting screw. Still not sure if these are saltwater jaws or not, but will find out tomorrow. I am shickled titless. lol

It's here, It's here!!! Original maybe early 90s Renzetti Presentation 4000. Pre cam lever, no ball bearings in back half of jaw. It has definitely been exposed to saltwater air - the brass would give a Navy guy an aneurysm. The seller was from Florida. One small adjusting screw for the vise jaws has had the plastic part separate from the allen screw itself, and I need an o-ring that makes the jaws open when you release the thumbwheel. The surface rust was from under the missing o-ring and wiped right off. But my favorite part ; I got it for $172 shipped. I cannot get over how small the jaws are compared to a Regal, which is what I have been tying on for some years now (thanks to my good buddy Mike). This is my first rotary vise, and if I take care of it, will be the last vise I ever own. Much cheaper and faster than restoring a Harley Davidson lol.

Now that is interesting. Thank you very much for the info. I'm currently waiting not so patiently for the BBT (big brown truck). Thank you to everybody for all the info.

Thank you, same to you and yours. I'm thinking these jaws may also be the saltwater jaws since the seller is from Florida. If that's the case I will restore them and sell them as I don't see myself doing any saltwater stuff. Steelhead maybe, but from what I know those hooks are a lot smaller than saltwater.

Well, there is that....I think they look great. She's wanted these for a long time but she never gave me the other parts to attach to the earring stuff.

Very cool!. What are you putting on the hook points, the little crystal looking things?

First Spruce ever and first tying of 2018. One more to do and I hope it looks similar to this one. Earrings for a good friend.

Thanks everybody. When I get it, I will take a lot of pictures and do a restoration post about it. Happy New Year!

I bought it (eBay). Will have to be stripped down and cleaned, and there is a little bit of surface rust on the jaws. The brass is tarnished, but the seller is from Florida. On the oring, how tight does that oring have to be? I own two older Harley Davidsons, so i have an extensive selection of orings lol. I'm pretty stoked to get it, and as long as there is nothing major wrong with it I think I got a really good deal on it ($159). Thanks Kimo and phg.

Kimo, Found this ad in a Fly Tying magazine I used to subscribe to from 1999. #2 lists as a Presentation 4000 alright, just a very early one.

I can get a pretty good deal on this vise, but the jaws would have to be refurbished/rebuilt and from looking at it, I think the never cam lever jaws would bolt right on. The center screw in the picture appears to be the only thing holding the jaws to the head arm. Thank you for the info! Have a Happy New Year.

This is supposedly a Renzetti Presentation 4000. I know that the original Renzetti came out in 88 (I think), so maybe this is a very old one. I have Googled for awhile and I'm not seeing any pictures with jaws like this. Every picture I see they have a camlock not a thumb screw. I would think that modern cam jaws from Renzetti would bolt up to it. Does anyone know if the original Renzetti was indeed a thumbscrew, and they changed to a camlock later? Thanks in advance, Andy

Getting the line to turn over. The last time I cast this line on a 5W it was an abortion. Don't think it was the rod (Winston IM6 5W). I think this line when assembled is closer to a 6W. Add to that throwing heavy streamers and I think the 6W will allow me to use the 5W line. The loop to loop in the guides can be a rod specific issue as well - was reading on a bunch of forums about this same line and I'm not the only one that has had the issue with the original line. Someone suggested looking at guide diameters, including tip top. Makes sense when you compare different rods. Yeah I could just go buy all new line, but I'm curious as to whether this will work on the river or not. I have nothing to lose, it's colder than $hit outside, and it's probably not going to warm up anytime soon.

That TFO 6W flips that line over like a boss. Considering you have all that weight plus a big wet streamer.......wow.

My reason for my insanity on this stupid line was two, actually. To be able to use it for shotgunning streamers, and lake fishing so that I would not have to pick all the line up off the water for casting. The lakes that I fish in around here you are seldom 'depth charging' if that makes sense. I've also done long leaders on a WF for streamers so that's still an option. I'm interested in seeing how this casts. I've never over or under lined a rod before. Worst case scenario, I'll post pictures when I get back from ICU having the streamer dug out.

I think I've got this thing figured out. I don't have the documentation that came with it, but I'm pretty sure this is how this thing is set up. Using a micrometer, I compared the 'base line' (running line, I guess) to each of the heads. The base line is a complete WF5F line with a very sharp taper down to the loop connector. In the one picture you can see the base line on top with the floating tip under it. Hard to see, but they are very different diameters. So in essence, when you put any of the heads on the running line, you merely have a WF line that has a long level taper on the front (15ft). Each of the heads are completely level. There is no difference in diameter between their beginning and tip. So how to get that much crap to turn over right...... I'm going to try underlining a 6WT TFO 9' that I have. Then figure out what to do next (drop back 10 and punt, most likely lol).

When the the Versitip first came out, it was a WF(5,6,7,8)F line with a loop on the end. Had 4 tips, a floating, an intermediate, a T3 and a T6 sinking line. Each of those heads were 4.6 meters long. Now lake fishing with the system, as in a pontoon or tube, is no big deal because you are letting the line out way past the loop to loop. But river fishing and trying to use any of the tips on typical casts you would make while wading, the loop to loop almost always is in the guides while you are casting. I've tried to find info on whether or not the heads are level line. If they are, I wouldn't think that cutting them down would be a big issue. That way it would move the loop to loop farther out of the guides. I don't do long range casting for the rivers I fish. I fat fingered the typing - the heads are only 4.6m (15f long). Sorry about that.

It's a 5WT with a 5WT rod. This is just a normal trout line, not salmon or steelhead. Short distance casting the loop to loop is staying in the guides. I was just asking if I can cut the heads down.

Question for everyone. I have an original Rio VersiTip system (not VersiTip II). Each of the 4 'heads' are 14.6M long. I really like the system, but the typical range that I cast at the loop to loop connector is always fouling the guides. Are these tips truly 'level'? I've looked at them and can't really see a belly or obvious difference in the line, front to back. My thought is to cut these down so as to get the loop to loop out of the guides and be able to use this line. When I bought it the system sold for right around $100, they are now around $180. I can just ditch the line, but I hate to do that if I can get a work around for it. I have taken care of the line as I do all of mine and there is nothing wrong with it. I just hate to give up on it as I think it's a good system. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Andy

Mine are brass, so that's not going to work.

I wondered if they didn't go up incrementally in 1/8"s. Thank you very much!

A good friend of mine is making me a fly tying bench, and he needs to know dimensions of various tools that I have. The only one that has me stumped (as I don't own it yet) is the 2 3/4" hair stacker from DR Slick. The base of the small stacker is 7/8", the medium is 1". Can anyone tell me the base diameter of the large stacker? Much thanks for any info. Andy

The Deschutes River here in Oregon goes absolutely bonkers when this comes off. Especially when they start dropping back down on the water to lay eggs. Fish hit like a freight train. Very large Sofa Pillows and Stimulators and heavy leaders! It is a bucket list type adventure. If I remember right, the migration to the shore steadily moves up river.

These are a couple of things that I have done with tools that have helped me out. Hopefully I can explain the picture well enough. The first thing, I find it much easier to have a flat white background on the surface of the tying table. it gives you contrast and your light reflects of off it and brightens the back side of the fly as well. I bought one of the wood 'benches' and I used it a lot, but not very many of them have a light colored background. The local hobby shop sells foam core poster board in various sizes, and it is cheap enough that once it gets too dirty it is very cheap to replace it (after you have flipped it over). You basically get two surfaces with one purchase. A hair stacker back when I started was a significant amount of money, money that could be used for other materials. So I used the tube that chapstick comes in. The key to that is find one that has a squared off head. These can be found at the local dollar store. It doesn't look that big next to the aluminum one in the picture, but it will actually hold more hair than the $20 one. Once you have it gutted, clean it well and run a dryer sheet through it to remove the static electricity. The dryer sheet trick works on any hair stacker as well. Much easier to get the hair out of it doesn't have cling. A very stiff toothbrush works for a dubbing brush, and it also works well to prep Coastal deer hair for Comparadun patterns. It is much finer than a typical hair comb. Use the side of it, not all of it - if that makes sense. The long green tube laying crossways is RC model airplane engine fuel line. If you buy a foot of it, you can use it as a covering on slick tools like the pliers and the whip finisher shown here. They are much easier to hold on to. Cut in shorter pieces, it slides over scissor tips to protect them when you put them away or transport them. Also keeps you from stabbing yourself with them when you reach into a box or bag. Flat jawed pliers to squish barbs down are very handy. Remember to always do this first - sometimes it can break the hook and it really sucks if you've already tied the fly. The whip finisher with the hippy colored handle was the first one that I ever had. i liked working with it, but the handle part was very narrow and it was hard to hold on to. I used a Bic pen that had that woven cover on it and it slipped over the handle and it fit. I still use it today. Hope someone gets some ideas and it helps out. Andy