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terp

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    Granite Bay, CA

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  1. I may have figured out my problem. I was using the midge jaws with hooks that may have been a little too big. I put the standard jaw back on and will give this another shot and try to get used to the notch and tightening adjustments.
  2. I would add that in using a Chinese knock-off of a Renzetti Traveler I found the hook grip to be fine. So when I consider the jaw desing of a Dyna-King, the notch in the jaw seems like a needless complication. I've read that around hook size 8 Dyna-Kings are tough to find the right grip. Neither the Renzetti's nor the Regals have the notch, and the grip isn't a problem. Maybe the notch provides extra security if you're yanking your thread a lot but that's not the type of tying I do. Again, maybe I'm missing something about the whole Dyna-King design philosophy, and I don't mean to disparage any DK fans. One other thing I would add is that I might have been better off buying the Regal Medallion with stainless jaws, as I rarely use the rotary function of the Revolution except to examine the underside of the fly, which apparently can be done with the Medallion (at a much lower cost).
  3. Thanks everyone. It sounds like I may be doing something wrong, but I've decided to sell it as I just don't need the full true rotary functionality. The Regal Revolution is rotary enough for my needs and the ease of use and jaw strength cannot be beaten. If I were tying a lot of dry flies with traditional hackle, or doing a lot of palmering or laying a lot of chenille, etc., then it might be of more value to me. I didn't start this post off with the intent of selling but the more I thought about it the more I decided to unload it. I was unaware of rules around selling things here only after 40 posts. So I'm listing it elsewhere: https://www.billkiene.com/forums/showthread.php?45726-For-Sale-Dyna-King-Excalibur-With-Pedestal-Base I may just get a used Renzetti Traveler for if/when I need full/true rotary.
  4. I've been thinking about selling it and am open to offers. I bought it used from a professional fly tier on this forum for $450 a year ago. I then got new midge jaws ($100) and also got the existing standard jaw refurbished by Dyna-King (I forget the cost of this). I've probably tied 10 flies on it at most.
  5. Compared to my Regal Stainless Revolution, the damned thing can't hold a hook -- it's as if the jaws's surfaces are greased up. Either that or I just can't figure out how to tighten the grip properly. But with the Regal you set it and forget it -- no tinkering needed. I feel like I must be missing something, but the Regal is just a much simpler piece of equipment to operate.
  6. terp

    BWO

    Salmo, for that BWO have you considered Gadwall instead -- https://www.jsflyfishing.com/hareline-gadwall-feathers? Thicker dark stripes, thinner white stripes, looks more like the body.
  7. terp

    BWO

    I love the innovative body. Do you have any concerns about durability? I guess you could bring some Loon UV streamside in case you need to repair it.
  8. Designed to keep a heavy nymph in the zone while high-sticking / euro-nymphing / tight-lining. The reverse cone creates resistance, slowing the flies swing back towards the rod. Good for slower deeper water. For the head I first tie in an inverting bead on a regular hook to basically convert it into a jig pattern. This is where I buy them for a great price: https://www.tacticalflyfisher.com/tactical-fly-fisher-inverting-tungsten-beads-50-pack-gold-silver-copper-black-nickel-and-unfinished/ Then I put the cone on backwards and secure it to the front bead with some resin, and a little bit of dubbin between the beads. Sometimes it's hard to get the cone on due to the angle of the hook. I did crush a few cones with pliers to be able to slide them on. The rest is whatever pattern you want. The head's oversized, so if you're after lifelike presentations, it might be best for a stonefly(?). I've fished it and it definitely keeps the fly in the zone longer. Hard to say yet whether the unusual head turns any trout off. Not sure about a name yet: - Zone hugger - Friction fly - Cup fly - Drag fly (or Drag Queen?) - Slow poke - Fathead - Terpinator
  9. LMAO. ADD + Fly Tying = Cluster
  10. DFoster, I couldna put it better myself. Maction, I feel your pain. I've been in a state of obsession for the last 1.5-2 yrs since resuming tying after a 30-yr hiatus. My mother-in-law asked my wife, "why is he so interested in those bugs?"
  11. Lots of great ideas on what to do with the surplus. I need to find a place to donate, plus I think I'll start recycling earlier versions of my flies that I can improve upon. Poopdeck and Mikechell, I hope to be more like you when I grow up and conquer my obessions. But after 53 years I haven't had much luck. Sometimes on the weekends I wake up before my alarm goes off. I get impatient waiting for it to sound so I can get up and start tying. When I go to bed, I'm designing flies in my head. Sometimes this keeps me awake for an extra hour. flytire, let me know if you find a 12-step program.
  12. I've been tying roughly 20 flies a week now for about 1.5 years, to the point where I can't possibly use them all and I'm running out of room in my fly boxes (I even had to buy a few more, despite already bringing about 10 on each trip). I used to tie in my teens and early twenties, then gave up for 30 years, and resumed two years ago with a vengeance. My kids are teenagers now and don't seem to have much interest in me (or fly fishing), so I have more time. Below are some ways I've tried to dealing with the surplus, but I wanted to hear what others do: Cull flies based on expected productivity (bigger #'s of known producers, smaller #'s of experimental flies). Put surplus in a big "Bugger Box" type fly box. My Bugger Box is still pretty empty. Don't cull any flies, just use more boxes, and try to bring only "some" of the boxes on each trip. I have failed 100% at this approach. I just bring more boxes with me. Where there is an excess of one fly that is drab, put half of them back on the vise and add a hot spot. Then put them back in the fly box. I've done this but haven't used the "new" flies. Reject some flies, trim off the matieral with a razor blade, and re-use the hook/bead for a new pattern. I think I've done this only once because it's painful to destroy one of my creations. Stop tying. Can't be done. Give flies away. This is somewhat promising, but I mostly fish on my own. Lose more flies on the river by getting snagged more often. Not a bad idea, but I hate tying on new tippets and new flies. Now some confessions: I'm at the point where I think about fly tying more than I think about actually fishing. I go to bed early and come in early to the office just to look at fly-tying stuff online before anyone else gets here (like I am right now) Fishing has almost become a secondary hobby to justify my fly tying. Some days I force myself to fish instead of sit at the bench. When I fish, it's a mere laboratory to test my flies. I'd rather tie flies than talk to anyone in my family, read a book, watch a movie or pretty much anything else when I'm home My home is in a state of disrepair because I'm always "going to tie just a few more flies" on the weekends I bought two expensive vises instead of just one inexpensive one which probably would have been just as good I inherited a few thousand dollars of materials in the fall, but still spend $50-$100/week on new materials I have more flies than I could possibly use, yet I keep tying, so clearly I have a problem
  13. Flytire, Hi, any advice on how to do this? I was thinking of experimenting on some loose feathers that I don't use. Thanks.
  14. I have an extra natural Hungarian Partridge skin, and need a brown one. Finding one online is difficult, plus I'm thinking it may be cheaper just to dye my second one. Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks.
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