flytire

i'm not sure if the right or left wing biots work the best. the bird is symmetrical after all!

read this http://www.invictaflies.us/Articles/all_about_biots.htm http://www.sexyloops.com/flytying/summerbiots.shtml

yup thats what it says in pollys book

basically the same heres another description from the internet DUBBING WITH A TWIST (by Dave Spiller of the South Sound Fly Fishers of Olympia, WA) Polly Rosborough wrote a book called "Fuzzy Nymphs" in 1965. In this book Rosborough wrote about nearly forgotten tying techniques including the dubbing noodle. I have also found the technique described in other books including "Modern Fly Dressing for the Practical Angler" by Paul Jorgensen (1978). The dubbing noodle technique produces a segmented body without the need for ribbing. Picking out some of the dubbing can change the texture. I use an exacto saw blade to roughen the body as needed. This technique also makes very durable flies, almost indestructible. Procedure: Step 1) Select a dubbing material to match the texture of the natural you want to imitate. Use a fine-grained dubbing with few guard hairs for a smooth body. Use a course material for rough bodies. Step 2) Place a small amount of the dubbing on the palm of your hand, and rub your hands together. You should be able to make a small piece of yarn or dubbing noodle. With ractice, you will be able to taper the yarn to match your needs. Step 3) Tie one end of the noodle to the hook with the tying thread. Step 4) Make a dubbing loop and place the noodle in the loop. Tinsel or wire can be added for flash. Step 5) Twist the dubbing loop and noodle. A tight twist will make a more segmented body. Step 6) Wrap the dubbing loop and noodle around the hook. Make additional twists as you wrap the body.

i think your confusing a dubbing brush with rope dubbing 2 different things rope dubbing http://www.fantasyflies.com/rope_dubbing_flies.php read phg's post on how to do it

seems to me a simple cut in the spool is a whole lot cheaper and i like my money in my pocket.

are you looking for tying "tips" like those in the previous post or real "techniques" like in the techniques bible "fly tyers benchside reference" book :dunno: "tips" and "techniques" are 2 different things

model making isnt a BAD thing!

if you intend on tying the 10 flies posted below the kit in the cabelas link, then go for it. could be a good start at a tying material inventory if not, then pick out 5-10 flies that you want to tie and buy those materials

i GOOGLED "chenille spools" http://www.feather-craft.com/wecs.php?stor...mp;target=TD026

for COTTON THREAD TO ROT??? and where is your scientific proof!

you are in a no win situation if it has t#ts or wheels you're gonna have trouble with it!

i'm sure theres a few soft hackles out there tied with it!

here is a scan from the book "tying foam flies" by skip morris take note that in the template, the body area is as long as the hook shank and the "wings" on each side can be any length at all. the "wings" get trimmed to size after the fly is tied. no matter what hook style or size is used the template is always the same

i have tying materials that are rushing 30 years old. still using those materials

I agree! kill this thread. plus theres no need for name calling!

the user manual says you can use the self timer in the manual mode. have you tried that?? try using a tripod to keep the camera from moving

rubber bands are easy enough but will dry out over time

i usually use the pre-made slit that comes on almost all spooled fly tying materials or the end caps that come on some spooled fly tying materials or you can make your own spool miner by getting the correct diameter book binding comb you can also use small corks. hold the thread over the hole in the spool and insert the cork there is a newer product called uni lok http://www.lakelandflytying.com/2118/products/Uni_Lok.aspx you can make some using a bead, elastic tape and heat shrink tubing http://www.lakelandflytying.com/1949/produ...pool_hands.aspx slip a cap over the end of your bobbin holder to keep the thread from slipping out http://www.lakelandflytying.com/2798/produ...ad_Keepers.aspx slip an o-ring on the tube of the bobbin holder to keep the thread from slipping out http://www.lakelandflytying.com/2634/produ...lder_Rings.aspx

i am of a rare vintage - does that count!

you could try tying in 2 ostrich herls and a simple dubbing loop. wrap the herls around one leg of the loop and twist it all together into a brush and simply pull it forward as a wing case. thats all thats being done anyway.

:dunno: a little more on the specifics instead of bring cryptic will get you more help

you can start with this template and with some modifications, you'll come up with a template that will work for the morris foam diver part of fly tying is experimenting with ideas until you get it right or close enough foam sheets are cheap enough from walmart or your big box craft store http://www.flyfishga.com/images/stealth_pattern.jpg

:dunno:

h&l variant in a tie with a royal wulff for dries pheasant tail in a tie with a little gray may for a nymph tan thread midge for midges