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lewy271

Bobbins

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I don't think your problem is due to the bobbin brand. I have used most of them with no difficulties.I too wonder what you are using or how you are threading your bobbins. When I first started tying, I used wire bobbin threaders. They scoured my bobbin nozzles and I had a lot of broken thread even after I learned about proper thread tension.

Now I wet the thread, put it in the tube and suck on the end of the bobbin and pull the thread through. If you are willing to do that (where has that thread been anyways?), buy some plastic dental floss threaders and use then to pull the thread through when starting on a new bobbin/thread combo.

 

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I now have quite a few bobbins myself. I used to only have one, but it was a real pain switching out spools all the time. I have a variety of bobbins. not sure who they're all made by, but as long as they have ceramic inserts, and the non ceramics are occasionally polished with fine steel wool you shouldnt have any problems. Just takes a little experience, and after awhile no problems what so ever.

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I tie primarily trout flies ranging from size # 12 - 32 micro. For streamers I try to stick to sizes # 6 - 8.

 

For speed, perfect tension control getting the job done with threads #3/0 - 8/0. You can't beat the standard Rite ceramic adjustable bobbins. The spool tension setting is an accurate click setting that is under coiled spring load. They come with 2 sets of Delran washers that run on the ends of the spools that make them run smooth as butter. They fit all standard spools. I keep them loaded with the natural nymph colors I use most often.

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For spinning deer hair using Kevlar thread and others heavier than #03 and for tying heavy larger pike streamers or salt water flies I like the Rite magnum long reach and the Rite ceramic magnum long reach.

 

 

For fine threads like Uni #17/0 I only use a high quality stainless bobbin. Ekich Automatic bobbin.

The Ekich is expensive, but worth every penny. Unlike the Norlander auto bobbin, it fits all standard spools and you don't have to wind special bobbins all the time. It also gives you much smoother control than the Norlander and fits way better in your hand. I only own the one right now but I plan on buying more this winter

 

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The rest of my bobbins are a mixmatch of different companies I have bought over the years.

 

 

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Tiemco gets my vote, I have a ceramic that I have pulled UNI 8/0-3/0, Big Fly, GSP, Kevlar and mono and you can't kill it. Of course no saying that I'll pick it up and it will snap.

Dave

PS Stay away from Terra the balls pivot and the tube moves that holds the ceramic.

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I have 7 Norvise automatic bobbins and several boxes of spare spools. I love them although I haven't tried the automatic bobbin that you're referring to.

I like the fact that you can get the automatic bobbin in a kit with 4 spools for way under what you're talking about for one bobbin. And Norm guaranttees everything that he sells.

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The thing with ceramic bobbins is that they don't survive a fall. But what I really don't like is that they seem to 'stick' a bit so thread tends to move less freely making using thinner threads prone to breakage.

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I have 7 Norvise automatic bobbins and several boxes of spare spools. I love them although I haven't tried the automatic bobbin that you're referring to.

I like the fact that you can get the automatic bobbin in a kit with 4 spools for way under what you're talking about for one bobbin. And Norm guaranttees everything that he sells.

 

 

 

I hear ya, I agree the Norlander is much cheaper. I used to use the Norelnder bobbins before I found the Ekich and was quite satisfied with their performance. At that time I thought it was the best bobbin out there, until I tried the Ekich. I found the Ekich bobbin felt so much more natural in my hand and was an all around better design. I hate having to spool bobbins. I go through thread so fast I was spooling all the time. I know $100.00 for a bobbin sounds like a lot, but Feruk actually doesn't make hardly any profit off his bobbins. The Ekich bobbin is quite intricate and the machining is quit extensive. Feruk farms out the machining to a company in Shelburn Ontario if I remember correctly and he then assembles the parts at home. It cost almost $100.00 dollars each per unit just to manufacture them. I wish I had a dozen.

 

Feruk also guarantees his bobbins and will replace it if it ever breaks.

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After 20+ year of tying, I have a bunch of different bobbins, but I still tend to first reach for my Matarelli bobbins.

 

Just last week, I had one of my Materilli bobbins start to cut thread (this bobbin is at least 20 years old), so I "honed" the tip of the tube with a small peice of emery cloth and the problem disappeared.

 

This was only the second time that this has happened in all those years. The first time was when I was spinning a lot of deer hair with kevlar thread (something i no longer do.) Actually, this may be the same bobbin...

 

Kyle

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Streamside,

 

Would you post some pictures of your tying room or area? From what I see, I suspect it is either very nice and/or spectacular. I would greatly appreciate it if you did; I enjoy seeing how others have arranged their sites, rooms and material.

 

Thanks!

 

Ray

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Streamside what is that vise you have there? Looks like a nice piece of design work.

 

Hi Grey Squirrel, my vise is a Pamola Fly Lathe. I have two of them. One clamp model one base with all the extentions. I have a number of high quality vises, but these are definately my favorite. I use them 90% of the time. The vise was definately designed with the professional tyer in mind. Every single feature on the vise was well thought out. I know everyone is is defensive about what vise they use, I guess I'm no different because I honestly feel that the Pamola is the ultimate in vise design. There isn't a single feature I would change on it. The most unfortunate problem with the Pamola is that it is no longer made.

 

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Streamside,

 

Would you post some pictures of your tying room or area? From what I see, I suspect it is either very nice and/or spectacular. I would greatly appreciate it if you did; I enjoy seeing how others have arranged their sites, rooms and material.

 

Thanks!

 

Ray

 

Hi Harold I will post some pics of my tying station for you. Hang tight.

 

John

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Streamside,

 

Would you post some pictures of your tying room or area? From what I see, I suspect it is either very nice and/or spectacular. I would greatly appreciate it if you did; I enjoy seeing how others have arranged their sites, rooms and material.

 

Thanks!

 

Ray

 

 

Hi Ray I will post some pics of my tying station for you. Hang tight.

 

 

 

 

Here you go Ray

 

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Here is the deal I mostly tie pike and bass flies, I recently bought 4 new bobbins from Gander Mountain and they are :bs: . Each and everyone of them keeps slicing though the thread. I also bought a ceramic bobbin and it is also a P.O.S. because the tube keeps opening up and sliding onto the thread.

 

My standard Cabelas bobbins didn't last very long, any suggestions without breaking the bank.

 

I have a big gift certificate to Cabelas so I would like to get them from there...And they are gonna need to stand up to alot of spun hair, I'm not tying anything delicate over here.

 

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

How about making your own bobbins for $1.50 each? Attachment shows my method for homemade bobbins. I guarantee you these work! I have an updated version of the plans but don't have access to it right now. I'll post it later or send it by email if you send your address.FXP_bobbin.rtf

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