Fly tying vises: Pro versus Beginner

[garetjax 0]

I am fairly new to the wonders and excitement of fly fishing. I just started 3 months ago after having spent many, many years using a Daiwa 6.5 foot graphite rod and a vintage Mitchell Garcia 408 open face reel fishing for trout, catfish and salmon with all manner of artificial lures and bait.

 

I have come to love and enjoy the profound simpleness of fly fishing, and want to take it to the next level. My brother-in-law has given me a rather large tackle box full of fly tying equipment, materials and tools. I have a goodly amount of feathers, saddle, dubbing, hair, thread, synthetics, etc. etc. However, the vise that came with it, an old C-clamp syle Thompson, does not hold the hooks as securely as I would like.

 

With that said, I would like to know three things about vises:

 

1. For a beginning fly tyer myself, should I consider a Pro or beginner fly tying vise? I am looking for something that I can grow into once my skills in fly tying become more solid. My thinking is that I would rather spend the money now on a good vise that I can grow into, than having to buy a new one later on down the road when I outgrow the old.

 

2. What features should I be looking for on a vise, that are either absolutely critical to have or are nice features to use that makes tying flies easier and/or look more closer to the real thing?

 

3. Lastly, which vises should I be looking at? I am willing to spend around $150.00 on a good, American made vise. I am looking for a base type set-up. I know about HMH, Regal, Dyna and Renzetti vises, and that they are fairly expensive, but very well made. Can anyone reccomend a vise from these picks or any others that may fit what I am looking for?

 

Thanks for a great site! =)

[Guest]

About $20 more than your budget, but well worth it. With all of the add-ons available you can tie anthing from a size 32 midge to a tube fly, all on one vise. I don't believe any other vise on the market has this flexibilty.

 

HMH Spartan

 

[garetjax 0]

About $20 more than your budget, but well worth it. With all of the add-ons available you can tie anthing from a size 32 midge to a tube fly, all on one vise. I don't believe any other vise on the market has this flexibilty.

 

HMH Spartan

Hey, thanks for the reply. Sweet thread you started, by the way. =)

[Guest]

You might want to check this out. A good buy on a quality vise:

 

http://ozarkanglers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2888

 

Dave

[Iowaflyguy 0]

 

 

I have the Peak vise and am very happy with it. It is made in Colorado and is $145 at traditionalangler.com.

This thing is bomb proof. In fact yesterday I ordered the midge jaws because I have begun to tye very

small stuff too.

 

It is worth a look anyway. The pedestal base is very heavy so it does not move on the bench.

Tom

[garetjax 0]

After some lengthy researching on the internet, I am leaning more towards the HMH Spartan vise. Is there any reason not to go with this particular vise? Thus far I have not read one negative thing about. it.

[fly time 0]

I use an Anvil Apex vice, it is a roatery, and it starts atout about $107.00 dollars, and I love it, the Griffin Montana Mongoose is a nice vice as well, plus it comes with tools, case, and lofetime warrenty, the best thing to do is go to your local fly shop and try out some vices, most will allow you to do that, then make your decision form there. Good luck, and Welcome to the site.

[Guest]

After some lengthy researching on the internet, I am leaning more towards the HMH Spartan vise. Is there any reason not to go with this particular vise? Thus far I have not read one negative thing about. it.

 

There aren't any negatives, unless you believe a true rotary is the way to go. I don't happen to like true rotary vises, they don't suit the way I tie. But that is me, you'll have to decide for youself what is right for you.

 

[Hairstacker 0]

Garetjax, I use an HMH Standard, which is just about the same vise, only a bit bigger and beefier, and I like it very much and don't anticipate changing vises soon, if ever.

 

TroutBum nailed it on the head -- I agree, no negatives other than if you prefer a true rotary vise. I happen to like and am used to the ability to comfortably rest my left hand on the top of a straight-armed vise, such as the HMH Spartan, when I'm holding and tying in materials.

 

That said, when you rotate the hook, the hook will not remain in a horizontal position, like it would on a true rotary, "bent-armed" vise. Thus, although you will be able to see all sides of the fly when rotated, you will not be able to perform certain techniques available to owners of true rotary vises, such as applying dubbing, ribbing, etc., by merely rotating the hook as opposed to wrapping these items around the hook, which is what you would do with my vise or the Spartan. I've never missed true rotary capability, so. . . to each his/her own.

 

[garetjax 0]

I have the Peak vise and am very happy with it. It is made in Colorado and is $145 at traditionalangler.com.

This thing is bomb proof. In fact yesterday I ordered the midge jaws because I have begun to tye very

small stuff too.

 

It is worth a look anyway. The pedestal base is very heavy so it does not move on the bench.

Tom

The more I look at the Peak PRV-G2 vise, the more I am liking it. Simple lines and no frills makes this a great looking and functional vise. Here's a great review I found of the vise.

 

However, I am a bit confused. What exactly is the difference between a non-rotary, rotary and true-rotary vise? I am interested in both the benefits and/or drawbacks as well as the mechanics of what a non-rotary, rotary and true-rotary vise do. Can anyone sit me down and give me a quick lesson on all things rotary when it comes to fly tying vises?

 

Thanks! =D

[Iowaflyguy 0]

 

O.K. I am going to give this a shot. If I don't make it clear I am sure some one will help.

A non rotary usually lets you move the head in the verticle plane to find a comfortable tying angle. It also

gives a comfortable place to rest your off hand.

 

A rotary lets you rotate the fly to get better access to the bottum sides etc. Also if you are tying

something like a clouser you do not have to remove the fly from the vice and turn the hook over.

Instead you just rotate it. I like to be able to see all sides of the fly so this is how I use the rotary feature.

 

A true rotary vice lets you rotate the hook while keeping it in the same plane. Thus instead of wrapping

around the hook you can hold the material and just rotate the hook. I don't tye this way so if you

want more info on it you will have to ask one of the other guys. They will be glad to help.

 

Tight lines

Tom

[Guest]

Before I go into a long dissertation on vises, let me ask this question. What type of fly will you be tying the most? Drys, nymphs, streamers?

[madkasel 0]

Good information here.

 

I will need to upgrade my vice, sooner rather than later, and I'm almost 100% sure that I'll be getting a rotary. (not a true rotary... just a rotary)

 

I tie way too many closure type bass flies that need to be inverted, and work with a lot of rabbit, which can get in the way.

[garetjax 0]

Before I go into a long dissertation on vises, let me ask this question. What type of fly will you be tying the most? Drys, nymphs, streamers?

Dries and Nymphs mostly. It's all I have fly fished with thus far.

 

A true rotary vice lets you rotate the hook while keeping it in the same plane. Thus instead of wrapping around the hook you can hold the material and just rotate the hook.

 

I guess what I am most confused about with rotary action vises, in particular this one, is the fact that, for example, on the Pike PRV-G2 vise...

 

 

...the hook holding system is at a 45 degree angle. I understand that you place the hook, barb down in a horizontal fasion so that the hook is in-line with the turning shaft, the barb pointing away from the vise. That I understand. What I am fuzzy about is that as you turn the handle to acheive the 'true rotary' action of the vise, the entire hook holding system, sitting at a 45 degree angle, will move in line with the rotating shaft, but will create a circle 2-3 inches around the shaft itself. Is this normal? Is this an advantage or disadvantage versus the rotary system of say, the HMH Spartan?

 

I would think that tying thread onto a hook shaft would be easier if the hook didn't make that 3 inch circle around the rotating shaft. Rather, by having the hook rotate in-line with the rotating shaft itself, making no circle at all, like the HMH Spartan does, the thread would be easier to apply, no?

 

I am very new to this field of fly fishing, so any help and/or guidance with this concern would be greatly appreciated.

[JJD 0]

...the hook holding system is at a 45 degree angle. I understand that you place the hook, barb down in a horizontal fasion so that the hook is in-line with the turning shaft, the barb pointing away from the vise. That I understand. What I am fuzzy about is that as you turn the handle to acheive the 'true rotary' action of the vise, the entire hook holding system, sitting at a 45 degree angle, will move in line with the rotating shaft, but will create a circle 2-3 inches around the shaft itself. Is this normal? Is this an advantage or disadvantage versus the rotary system of say, the HMH Spartan?

 

The whole point of a "true" rotary system is that the shank of the hook will stay in generally the same place. On some vices this means the the jaw assembly will rotate around a larger arc. This may, or may not be an advantage, depending upon your style of tying.