Fly tying vises: Pro versus Beginner

[Iowaflyguy 0]

 

Maybe someone can help here. The reason for the "bent arm" shaft is that when mounted in the jaws

the shaft of the hook rotates around it self. I know it is hard to visualize. Imagine the hook

mounted in the jaws with the shaft of the hook directly in line with the shaft of the vise where it comes out of the bearing. It doesn't matter where you rotate it , it is still in line. This is the reason for the "bent shaft".

 

If you look at many vises you will see that all "true rotary" vises have the bent arm. I like it for among other things clousers, bonker zonkers, and craw patterns because when you rotate it the hook is still in exactly the same place only upside down.

 

I have to buy online because there are no nearby fly shops, but, if you have a shop go play with some vises

or have them show you different vises. Actually stick a hook in them and see how you like not just the

rotary action but also the jaw adjustment etc. They will be glad to help. Remember this is supposed to be fun.

 

Tom

[Guest]

If you mount the hook correctly, the centerline of the hook shank will spin around on it's own axis. It won't be moving outside if that axis. This a handy feature when you are dubbing or putting hackle on small flies, but it will only work with straight shank hooks. If you're tying on a curved scud or nymph hook, you lose the rotational advantage.

 

If you tie only drys and nymphs then this might be the vise you're looking for. If you tie mostly streamers, that 45 degree V shaped thingy on all true rotarys will get in your way when you rotate the fly upside down to work on the belly. That is why Renzetti sells an extension to overcome this problem. I prefer a vise with a linear design like the HMH or Nor-Vise. I wouldn't trade either of these for any offset rotary, not even a LAW.

[garetjax 0]

Okay, I feel like a total idiot. I now realize that I was wrong, as I was visualizing in my mind the bottom of the "V" as being the rotational point, not the end of the clamp holding the hook. Of course the bottom of the "V" will rotate in a 3 inch circle, but that is not where the hook is placed.

 

Thank you all for the clarification.

 

One more thing. The HMH Spartan... how is the vertical dowel holding the horitonzal shaft held in place so that it does not flop around? Is there a friction screw of some sort that connects the two pieces together and allows the shaft arm to pivot freely, but not so much so that it wobbles when you are tying flies?

[Waldog 0]

Dont' disount the Danvice. I am in a similar predicament as you. I am going to buy a new vice and I am going to get the Danvice. It's a rotary vice as well. Something that seems to turn some people off is that there are parts that are made of DELRIN. Not the jaws or stand, but the rotary parts. People that use it seem to like it and for the price, it can't be beat. It even comes with a DVD to demonstrate the capabilities of the vice. I have seen it for sale as cheap as $63. on E-bay. Normal dicount price seems to be about $75. I think the retail price is only $80! Check out this link for an evaluation of the Danvice;

 

http://www.flyfisherman.com/ftb/hwvise/index3.html

[Guest]

One more thing. The HMH Spartan... how is the vertical dowel holding the horitonzal shaft held in place so that it does not flop around? Is there a friction screw of some sort that connects the two pieces together and allows the shaft arm to pivot freely, but not so much so that it wobbles when you are tying flies?

 

The adjustable pivot point is held with a set screw. An allen wrench is supplied with the vise to tighten or loosen it.

[glm38 0]

In the last year I have owned both a Peak and an HMH spartan. I bought the HMH first. I really liked it. It's a great vise.

 

But I have a friend that owns a fly shop and he let me try tying on his Peak vise. Long story short I just liked the Peak better. For me anyway it seems to hold any size of hook absolutely steady with greater ease. Meaning it doesn't require as much force on the cam lever.

 

I don't use the rotary function much but it is nice for some things and I actually use it on most flies to turn it upside down and look at it from all angles. You can do that with the HMH but it is just easier with the Peak which is a true rotary.

 

Bottom line in my opinion is you can't go wrong with either. Both have a lifetime warranty. Both are classy looking IMHO. If you do a search for reviews of either vise on the internet I don't think you can find a negative thing written about either.

 

Good luck,

 

Greg

[garetjax 0]

Well, I bought a fly vise today. Drove to the nearest Bass Pro Shop and took a look at the vises that they had there. There was only one vise that I cared to look at, and it was the Peak PRV-G2.

 

After being shown its features versus a non-true rotary vise (they had an Apex there) I had a greater understanding of what true rotary is. The guy tied a few flies with me, and I was sold on the vise. Picked one up for about $130 USD. I also picked up some medium round rubber, 2mm black foam, some razor black foam, size 14 fly hooks as well as some black and gold flashabou tinsel.

 

If anyone can guess by now what I will be making as my first ever flies, post them here. =)

 

Let's just say that the flies I am making are going to replace what I lost when I went fishing this past Saturday with my father-in-law. They were his that he loaned to me.