Curtis Fry

A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by Curtis Fry: Tube Gill

Stocking up my high mountain trout boxes and was curious what others like to tie. So let's throw up the top 5 high mountain dries and top 5 high mountain nymphs. Dries: 1. Black Ant 2. Hopper 3. Beetle 4. Griffith's Gnat 5. Mosquito Nymphs: 1. Chironomid/buzzers 2. Damsel soft hackle 3. Copper John 4. Diawl Bach 5. Scud

Thanks guys. Vegas, there's red flashabou and then also a clump of FTD Glass Web. I love that stuff....

Thanks Evan. That's what I figured, just nice to get some 2nd opinions from you guys.

So I'm considering some of these hooks. My main concern is sharpness. I had a buddy test some of the size #12 scud hooks with the thumbnail test and said they were quite dull compared to comparable "mainstream" brands. Anyone care to chime in on this?

A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by Curtis Fry: Lemon Lime Popper

hehe, yeah, I don't think it's realistic to hold a lot of bass flies in a regular fly box. I've tried a few different options, but my current favorite is something like this: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/Tac...80;cat104619780 You can modify those tackle boxes to glue foam in them if you need to. I have one for topwater, one for heavier jig-style flies, one for baitfish flies and one for smallish panfish flies. That said, I usually fish from a bass boat, so I don't need my setup to be portable.

I use them for bass quite a bit and have never used the cutters cuz I like to vary the shape to fit the style I'm after. I use a 1/0 or 2/0 hook usually.

Nicely done Kirk! So do you have a source for those cork whistle balls besides busting up a bunch of whistles?

Here's something that might help. I find this the cleanest technique to tie off the hackle as well...

Just wanted to throw out an invite to anyone who's interested in either attending and/or doing demonstration tying for the upcoming Wasatch Fly Tying and Fishing Expo, April 1st and 2nd at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, Utah. http://www.wasatchexpo.com/ If you'd like to participate as a demo fly tyer, please contact me via email: [email protected] Thanks!!

The standard Boudreaux pattern might be, but this one is a variation I just tied up.

Here's a good book on it: http://www.amazon.com/Production-Fly-Tying...s/dp/0871089297

The hook is a Mustad C49S in a #10. I've been a long-time Mustad hater, but I've heard some good things lately about the Signature series, so I figured I'd give it a try. And yeah, the body is palmered dry fly saddle hackle and then trimmed to size. Pretty prickly stuff. UV flash on the tails. Gonna bust up some 'gills and crappie here in a couple of months...

Thanks Kirk! And I'll have to give that channel lead a try. The hackle flash I use on the body is also from Cascade Crest...

A take on the Boudreaux seen here on FTF. Mine are just chewy (UV Chewee skin)

Thanks! Yeah, I wasn't sure on the eye color, but who knows. As far as the name (I lived in South America for a few years and work throughout Latin America now for my job -- so I speeek e de spanish), it literally means "Shrimp Sucker" -- which would, of course, apply to the fish that eats it, but I'm guessing the fish won't mind...

Thanks for the input. Here's what I came up with. I called it the "Chupacamaron"

Here's the thing with vises -- it's a personal preference and you'll get people who own a certain one that will obviously recommend that one. It's our natural tendency to want to think we own the "best" of whatever it is (rods, reels, waders, vises, etc). Anyhoo....I usually recommend that people get to a fly shop and try them on for size. Now, my own biased input. I own two Dynakings (Barracuda & Squire). I love the Barracuda. I have a Nor-Vise. Pretty happy with that and I'll use it if I'm going to tie a few dozen leeches or buggers where the lathe action comes into play. Don't like it as much with smaller flies, but it's a very cool vise. I've have a couple of Griffin Montana Mongoose vises and that's what I tie on for 99% of my tying. Doesn't mean I don't like the other members of my vise family, but the Griffin fits my style. Based on reviews I've seen and others' complaints about the Griffin, I can usually say it's more PEBVAC (Problem Exists Between Vise and Chair) than a problem with the vise itself. I will say it takes some fine-tuning out of the box, but once you do that, I've normally found no issues. Slop can be addressed with adjusting a knob or screw or two. Rotary wobble can be fixed by adjusting the post clamp to fit your tying action. I've also heard people talk about some clearance issues with the jaw lever arm, but if you set it in the right position, you'll have no issues. That's not to say there aren't negatives because there are a few things I like about the Nor-Vise and 'Cuda more, but overall I'm with Griffin. As for rotary or not, I will not tie with anything that doesn't have rotary. I use it on most of my flies and any time I rib or wrap, it's going round and round. I can't live without it.

Good information fellas. I appreciate it!!

So I'm working on some shrimp patterns for Bonefish. I'm a newbie when it comes to Bonefish patterns, so I apologize for the stupid question. But I've seen some existing shrimp patterns that ride "rightside up" (legs down) and are backward facing. My question is, assuming we're imitating a fleeing shrimp and they move "backwards", are they also "upside down" when fleeing? Patterns like the Crazy Charlie or Gotcha seem to be oriented upside down (i.e legs etc facing up), while the fly is retrieved, giving it the motion of moving backwards. I hope I'm making sense. Just trying to find out which way is up and what's coming and/or going.

Not sure if you're open to feedback, but IMO, you need to look at a bigger hook for this guy. Good start though!

Yep, those are done by a friend of mine. Pretty cool stuff!

Just my two cents, hooks and most materials typically fare better in portable containers so you can take them with you when you go to a tying party or a show or whatever. I'm also a big fan of a more modular setup. I tried the modified desk thing, but quickly found I was always finding better/different ways to store things and also the desk wasn't as expandable. I ended up buying three cheap tables at IKEA and put them into a "U" shape in my tying room. Then everything on the tables are either just rubbermaid stuff or non-permanent shelves, etc. Then I can change things around as I go. Pretty flexible. Also, the magnetic thing sounds cool, but it might be a pain if you ever want to take those with you somewhere. After a lot of trial and error, I found I like the craftmate containers. They have about 14 compartments, which open individually and lock. I have about 12 of those that cover most hook sizes and types I tie with. Here are some shots of the setup: And here's my materials closet. I gave up on trying to put all materials on or around my tying area. I keep it all behind me in this closet and take out only what I need:

Hackle will have a natural "concavity" to it so you just need to keep it in mind when tying whatever it is you're tying. I personally like to have the "v" going upwards. Here's an example of the concave up orientation on a parachute: Granted, this is a #24 and smaller hackle, but the concept is the same. Also make sure you're wrapping down/up the post evenly. I've seen times where you angle it out of the horizontal plane and the "v" is exaggerated in a direction you don't want.