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Fly Tying


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About Chris_NH

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday September 12

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  • Favorite Species
    Brook Trout
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  • Location
    Northern NH, USA
  1. This is a 90 second sped up video of the Hornberg Special tied. Takes roughly 9 or 10 minutes to tie in real time, depending on the size. The Hornberg is the best all around brook trout fly I've ever fished. https://youtu.be/yVVmLWHgJ_s
  2. Just what I was going to say. It could have been 15 minutes live. lol. Here is Charlie Craven tying a honest 2 minute parachute adams. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_XZlX0mau0 I was never under the impression that anyone gave a rip how long it takes me to tie one. The point of the 1 minute speed tie is that it can be watched quickly.
  3. Size depends on what they're eating. The SOS was originally a baetis pattern, and baetis are really small, like 18 or 20, but they don't just take the SOS for a baetis. Color doesn't usually matter all that much, to be honest. It's just a buggy fly that gets noticed. It looks like food, and if you make it act like food in the water trout will oblige. I tie and fish them in 14 and 16 and do pretty well.
  4. The Higa's SOS is one of my favorite go-to nymphs nearly all season long. Recently saw a lighting fast online video of a fly being tied so I thought I'd try. It takes me a little longer than 60 seconds to tie, but... Put together a rapid tying video about a minute long. https://youtu.be/DBfLc1acztI
  5. Put a hotspot or don't... matters little to the fish. What's infinitely more important is the size/profile of the fly and the way it's fished. What's indisputable is that flies with hotspots sell way faster than flies without.
  6. Nice find. And there's plenty left over to make yourself a nice matching speedo/thong set for you and the mrs... summer is coming!
  7. Thanks for the info., and will check out those sources.
  8. I'm looking for a bulk source of marabou. I go through a lot of 2 particular colors (tan and gray) and the best I can find is about $8/ounce plus shipping. Anyone know a decent source for blood quill or similar bugger tail marabou?
  9. By the way stab, every time I see your username for some reason my mind sees dagnabit, and I chuckle. Lol. Funny how the mind works.
  10. Buy a Hungarian partridge skin. Lots of other things things can be substituted, but nothing really looks as good. A $15 skin will give you a lifetime of good soft hackle tying feathers.
  11. Whenever I see "don't ever" I wanna say don't ever say don't ever... The bigger wire accentuates the segmentation and is perfectly fine to use. My poison is generally brassie down to 16's, small on 18's and 20's and x-small on everything smaller. On the bigger stillwater midges I often use medium then coat it with UV resin. Makes for some fine looking chironomids.
  12. I considered a hole in desk, but since desk space is always at a premium I went with a vice mounted waste catching bag. Love it. When it fills up I go dump it. When you cut something you just let it fall and not have to do anything. Doesn't get simpler and saves me considerable time.
  13. The rather obvious pinch is having nothing else on hand and having to set up an extra spool in a hurry. I obviously wasn't advocating the use of mono in place of dacron. And we hardly needed the lecture on why mono isn't optimal as a fly line backing.
  14. Your observation is likely correct, but to say that a downstream facing dun would draw more takes, with all other things being equal seems like a stretch. I think it's no more complicated than doing whatever you have to do to keep your fly line from floating over the fish and getting a drag free drift, regardless of which way the fly is facing. Different types of water benefit from different approaches to achieve this, so always fishing upstream, or always fishing downstream can't be optimal.
  15. More thread tension and another 2 or 3 wraps should do it. Experiment with the thread and see what sort of pressure or tension it takes to break it and try to wrap the wing case with 70% of that pressure - don't be afraid to torque down on it good. If it's particularly slippery material then give your bobbin a good clockwise spin to chord up the thread and give it the ability to bite into the material. Just remember to spin it the other direction to unchord and get it flatter before whip finishing else the thread can tend to break when you pull the whip finish knot tight.
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