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Fly Tying


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About Lucian.Vasies

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  1. Hi J, Yes agree, difficult to control all variables but I tried as much as possible to avoid them. Here are more details about what I did : *I used a lamp wich has a very narrow wave light in UV visible. *the light used was a laser pointer which has a specific wave frequency ( because is a laser ) *I tested it in an almost dark chamber - no direct light from sun and other sources. *I made the test in a cartoon box to avoid as much as possible any other type of light interference *I used 5 types of resin: loon, deer creek, solarez, bug bond and resin used in professional UV printing. All behaved almost identically. *glasses used where Orvis, Zeiss, Smith, Mouche Devaux France, cheap no-name Chinese glasses and some Swedish glasses in: yellow, green, brown, gray. With plastic and glass lenses. Some of them new some of them from friends. Of course that the resins can react on a larger spectrum of light even in non UV light. But in my room was almost dark and I consider that I took out all other radiations from my equation. For coating I used laser light which is a clear radiation in UV spectrum Results: * Without polarized eyeglasses the resins went harder in a few sec. *With eyeglasses on the resins went almost hard ( a thin layer ) but not completely in over 30sec. *dark colored are more protective compared with light colored, is obvious that the light absorption is higher if we talk about dark colored glasses and less for glasses with light colored lenses. Conclusion: * the polarized eyeglasses protect against UV but far from declared 100%. *glass lenses are better than plastic ones because the plastic is easy to be deformed and will present spherical aberration which will give you headache in time. I had a chat these days with a professor from our local University and he told me that is not such thing: lenses or glasses capable to offer 100% protection. Even ordinary glass provides UV protection but 100% UV protective glass is not possible. Brands like Zeiss, Varivas, Talex, Tiemco, do not tell to anybody that they glasses provides 100% UV protection ( some of them 90 or 99 but not 100% ) My Final Conclusion: In the end: cheap Chinese glasses are good and protect your eyesight enough in the same way like those expensive do/ But because they do not have complicate and super durable anti scratch layers is better to change them at 2 or 3 years. The most important thing is to be sure that they do not have deformations and diopters which is very easy to test . Then 2 or 3 pairs are a must, light colored for cloudy days and darker for super sunny days.
  2. After 2 years or wearing the Smith I can say the plastic is not ok. I used a laser in UV to see how much of the light go thru the lens. Smith Optics say that are 100% UV Protected. The UV Light goes without any problem. At 100% protection no UV light should pass thru lenses. Then I made a test: using the laser pointer I tried to see if a drop ov UV resin will go hard. After 10 sec of exposure the resin was liquid , then the surface went slightly hard. Some UV protection is, but far from what is declared. Then I focused on Costas, I tested a few and I dropped. The plastic ones have spherical aberration . Non was ok ( with Smith I never had such problem ) I ordered 2 pairs from Tiemco, they are the first brand that I found who tells that is no 100% UV protection.... I'm curious to see how they are.
  3. I coat my dries tied with peacock quill. Never had problems and durability is obvious , flies resist more
  4. thanks, tying this fly is fun and I'm sure that you will like to make it
  5. Here is my version of egg laying sedge. I use as dry or as wet ( swimming adult ) . it is simple and durable with a buggy-realistic waterprint .
  6. And an ant tied with peacock quill and coated for durability. Legs made using the same technique, Fun to tie and durable
  7. A different way to make a hackle. Tying dry flies in this way was popularized by Jean-Paul Dessaigne, one of my favorite french tier ( a fantastic photographer ans skilled tier ) . He made a lot of flies using guard fibers from hare fur. Here, in my part of Europe , we call hare fur as "poor man hackle". It is difficult to find Whiting hackle and we started to use more and more hare fur instead. Guard fibers from hare fur suit perfectly for making big floating flies. The colors of the fibers are fantastic and are very close to the natural color of insects legs. cheers
  8. filling the boxes for late Spring time when water will be high and muddy
  9. for trout and grayling from French Alps a small sedge generated by a well known french fisherman: Jaques Boyko
  10. My wet purple fly for grayling fishing.
  11. I love your nymphs and photos too cheers
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