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Was trying last night and use 8/0 for the first time. I had a hard time with it breaking, ussually after wrapping and a slight tug. or after spinning some dubbing.

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what kind of bobbin are you using? if theres no ceramic(or even if there is sometimes) theres a rough edge that can cause the thread to break. It also takes a little bit of getting used to when you use smaller thread for the first couple times.

 

I have 3 ceramic bobbins but I only use the one for smaller threads cause the other two seem to cause more breaks in the thread.

 

Just try to go slow and you don't have to pull too hard, a few snug wraps will do.

 

with that said, if theres no ceramic insert in your bobbin, i suggest getting one that has it. griffin makes one thats pretty inexpensive

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One way I used to get used to how much tension to apply, was to start the thread on the hook and pull until it snaps. Do this 3-4 times in a row and you should have a pretty good feel for it!

 

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Firebug. the hook point is enemy number 1. I use 8/0 on smaller flies and I'm always breaking off. I find that if I really go easy and not tug too hard the bobbin every thing works good. I wouldn't tie nay deer hair with it as far as tying deer hair caddis. I use a 6/0 for the wing on that one. :yahoo:

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Shezli's post above gives the best advice. Take the time to get to know your thread and it will really improve your tying. Thread control is everything when tying flies and knowing the breaking strength of your thread is maybe the most important part of that.

 

To tie a very durable fly, you must tie in your material right up to the breaking strength, but not past it. Knowing when to stop really helps.

 

As stated above, take a few minutes to tug on your thread and break it on purpose.

 

Most beginners start out with heavier thread and I am not sure that is the best thing in the long run as they tend to have problems later on as they go smaller. When I teach flytying, I have my student use 6/0 thread for maybe the first night, then go to 8/0 thread (teaching mostly trout patterns). I feel that it helps develop thread control much sooner that way. Your opinion may vary.

 

Good topic

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If you have no ceramic bobbins and do not have enough money for one you can make an alternative.

1.Take a normal metal bobbin (new or old).

2. Coat a bobbin needle with varnish.

3.Place the coated needle into the bobbin tube, take it out and let the tube dry.

4. The bobbin now should be coated with a hard, wear resistent coating.

 

It the bobbin is old and has lots of groves in it you may need lo coat it twice.

There you go a cheap and effictive way to stop your thread breaking.

Happy tying,

Jason.

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I had a ceramic bobbin where half of the top cracked off and I just got a glass bead glued it to the tip of the boobin and now it works fine.

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My advise is to get used to it. Your flies will be much sturdier if your thread tension is always near the breaking point. And you should expect accidents (especially involving the hook point.) Experience and practice will help you learn how to avoid the hook point and how much tension your thread can take before it snaps.

 

You can tell a lot from where the thread breaks. If only a short length of thread is left attached to the fly you might suspect you got too close to the hook point. If the thread snapped back through the bobbin tube and is barely long enough to pass back through the tube you need a better bobbin.

 

As for using 8/0 thread: I don't use this fine a thread on flies larger than # 14 or #16.

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