brianbailey1000 0 Report post Posted January 3, 2013 I've been away from tying for quite some time and over the last several months I"ve been back at more than anytime in my life. Lot's more choices in hooks. When it comes down to it, I going with a 50 pack for the same price as a 25 pack(TMC). I've used Dai Riki and haven't had any issues. None of my local shops carry them ( I mail order quite a bit) but they do carry MFC and Umpqua U Series. My local shop owner says they are fine unless you get down the #18 or small and you run the risk of hooks straightening out with bigger fish. I read the recent what hook to you prefer poll and it seems as though just about any hook including TMC have straightened. Should this be a concern when buying more economical hooks or not? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick2011 0 Report post Posted January 3, 2013 i think any small hook will straighten out on a big strong fish,but i use the u series all the time and havent had any real issues, i dont normally catch real big fish though, i imagine my leader breaking before my hook straitens out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted January 3, 2013 Nick is getting to the real point, if you are using a small hook you should be balancing that with a thin tippet, normally lighter breaking strain and most likely a lower line rate rod like 3-5. Even when pulling from the butt end of a 10 weight rod, when the rod is bending it is incredibly difficult to snap 8lb line. Under water, the abrasion of things the fish runs through along with the jerking pulls of the fish is what, amongst other things, contributes to breaks. So if you fish a balanced setup you shouldn't have a problem with hooks unless they are very thin wired. I have noticed the Partridge Surehold Lighting dry hooks can straighten ever so slightly in size 14 if I use 5lb line or more. They aren't really designed for that line weight I would wager. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutsmasher 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2013 Exactly ^^^ your tippet, drag, and rod pressure should all be matched to the hook. Straightening the hooks shouldn't be a concern unless you are after big game. I wouldn't go cheap on saltwater hooks but for the most part the answer is no. The main problem with cheap hooks is the eyes. I had some real shit packs of U series scud hooks. Some shanks were bent sideways, most eyes were crooked or not closed all the way, and some didn't even have an eye bent into them at all. This could have been isolated to one shipment at that shop but I will never buy them again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whatfly 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2013 Of course you have to match quarry/hook/tippet/technique but the question is, do cheap hooks perform the same as expensive ones? The answer is "no." Is this a major issue for the type of fishing you do? That is a question only you can really answer. Considering the trivial cost of the hook, I tend to favor the more expensive premium hook brands, because I quite often ask more of my hooks than I probably should. Have looked at the Umpqua U series and have not been impressed by the fit nor finish by just looking at random packs of hooks. If I need a cheap hook, I go with Dai Riki or Mustad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutsmasher 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2013 Hook cost isn't trivial if you tie every day, the difference can be hundreds of dollars at the end of the year. Fact is, they aren't going to catch any more fish than a cheap hook that's just as sticky. If you straighten hooks a lot, then by all means spend the extra money for the premium forged hooks, but don't blame the hook when the problem is operator error. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whatfly 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2013 Hook cost isn't trivial if you tie every day, the difference can be hundreds of dollars at the end of the year. Fact is, they aren't going to catch any more fish than a cheap hook that's just as sticky. If you straighten hooks a lot, then by all means spend the extra money for the premium forged hooks, but don't blame the hook when the problem is operator error. Compared to how much I spend on gas, lodging, food, etc. when fishing over the same period, hook cost is trivial. If you do not mind losing the occasional large fish to a cheap hook on a small fly, or if you just never catch large enough fish to test the issue, then more power to you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutsmasher 0 Report post Posted January 12, 2013 Hilarious! Sir, I exercise proper technique so I don't lose large fish because of hook failure. You obviously cannot grasp this concept, so I won't elaborate. Happy new year and tight lines to you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted January 12, 2013 I think that large hooks, over size 1 may run a risk of being lower quality when prices are too cheap. I have found that own brand hooks suffer most from quality control issues and the odd hook may not have an eye or the point is short or bured. But in a box of 100, one hook is nothing and still makes the £$ savings vast. But I have seen some bulk buy boxes where every hook appears as though it has been hand cast and shaped by a drunken monkey with three fingers missing. I would not risk saving money on hooks that just look wrong but the likes of Allenfly, green caddis, royd lures appear to be good quality. Unless a firm is making the hooks from inferior metals then a hook will not bend no matter who makes it if the wires thick enough. Just don't try catching a 20lb tarpon on the 1x fine dry fly hooks and you'll be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites