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GG34

Leader changes with fly changes?

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Wouldn't rule that out either. I have a hard time casting large flies when I'm in saltwater too. Still I think. A 5 x tapered leader may be a bit too small for a larger weighted bugger. I may try a straight piece of mono.

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If you're going to do that, try about 4 1/2 ft of 8 lb test, and see how that goes. Shorten it about 6 inches at a time if you feel you need to. 8 lb test will be approximately 2 X, so should be sufficient.

 

I once heard Lefty Kreh say that for general fishing take a 7.5' tapered leader & cut about 15 to 18" off the tippet end, and tie a loop in that end. Then attach your tippets, loop to loop. This way you can adjust tippets without changing leaders. I did this for many years, and it worked fine for most of the fishing I did. I've also always used regular mono's instead of "tippet" materials. A bit cheaper to buy, and the majority of the fishing I've done has been in warmwater or salt. Most species of fish I've chased regularly are rarely shy of tippets. Never had any issues fishing for trout either.

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6 to 12 feet of 8# test mono fishing line. I am a cheap bastard and I've always caught fish just fine. I will admit, I've never thrown a #20 dry fly, so I wouldn't know what do do with that, but with the warm water fishing I do, just a piece of mono works fine.

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So even trout fishing with say a size #8 w. bugger, a straight piece if mono? Any luck with those sinking leaders on a floating line?

 

 

 

If you are going to fish a WB on a floating line, it should be weighted with either lead body wraps or a bead head or both.

 

There is another way to fish streamers with a floating line and that is to use a weighted polyleader. I prefer to make my own variation by "converting" my floating fly line into a "sink tip" fly line by adding a sections of Cortland LC13 coated lead core material.

 

cortland_lc_13.jpg

 

I cut the LC 13 into different lengths of 12", 18", 24", 30", and 36". Then I whip finish braided mono loop to loop connectors on each end of the LC 13. The whip finish and the overlap is coated with Pliobond flexible cement.

 

hcla_pliobond.jpg

 

I can connect the LC13 to the end of my fly line and it acts a sink tip. I form my own loop to loop connectors out of Cortland Braided mono running line which comes in 30 and 50 lb test.

 

cortland-50lb-clr-braid-mono.jpg

 

 

http://www.danblanton.com/blog/getting-looped/

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I completely agree with Silvercreek. I only use floating line and sometimes I get into a situation where I just can't get a fly to go deep enough in a pool or deep run. Within a few moments you can add a section of the lead-core at the end of you line with loop-to-loop connections. I have made 4 or 5 different lengths and just tuck them away in bag in a vest pocket until needed. I agree with the straight mono for warm water also but have not ever tried it for trout. There is a rule about the tippet size to the fly size but I am having a memory block at the moment...

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Thanks for the good info. I will give it a try. I've always used hook size divided by 3 for appropriate tippett size.

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Thanks for the good info. I will give it a try. I've always used hook size divided by 3 for appropriate tippett size.

 

There is the rule of 3 and the rule of 4. I use the rule of 3 myself.

 

I think the rule of 4 is most often quoted by introductory books because it gives a slightly thicker tippet and makes the fly easier to cast; but the rule of 3 gives a thinner tippet and a better drag free float. I suggest the rule of 4 for beginners and then have them move to the rule of 3 as they become better casters.

 

I have even heard rule of 4 +1; divide the hook size by 4 and then add 1 to get the tippet size. It is basically the rule of 3.

 

For example using a size 16 fly:

 

Rule of 3 = 5X tippet

Rule of 4 = 4X tippet

Rule of 4 +1 = 5X tippet

 

http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=66487

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