Jump to content
Fly Tying

tidewaterfly

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    3,242
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About tidewaterfly

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1955

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    Striped Bass
  • Security
    2008

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Carolina, formerly MD & Chesapeake Bay Country

Recent Profile Visitors

21,086 profile views
  1. I like that popper hook, but when you get that small, doubtful it makes any big difference. I used to make some size 12 poppers for a shop years ago, and used long shank dry fly hooks. A good thread base and epoxy, and the cork would come apart before the body to hook connection would fail.
  2. Across the top, L to R, looks like raccoon body. dyed rabbit, and silver fox Then L to R coyote, a small piece of bobcat in the center, grey fox, then the black & white and the white fur at the bottom look like rabbit. That black & white could also be skunk.
  3. It's not specifically fly tying related, but my oldest son has offered to pay for the construction to finish the room over my garage, which will be my fly tying room. Most of the framing was already done, so just needs electric, insulation, and sheet rock. plus a couple of doors framed and hung. I'll do the painting. I'm really looking forward to having a dedicated tying room again! 😊
  4. Yep, good stuff for double bunnies, but I like Liquid Fusion better for applying eyes. I've also had the same issue with Tear Mender drying out prematurely. It's a good product, but you have to use a lot of rabbit/fur strips in a short period to make the best use of it. Aileene's, mentioned by Sandan has other good glue/adhesive products too. Oh, and the Tear Mender is a latex based product, which is why it's not completely clear when dry. Try the Fabric Fusion or Liquid Fusion or the Fletch-Tite that Capt Bob mentioned. Used to be Zap a Gap was recommended for eyes on flies like bass bugs, but it didn't dry clear either.
  5. Some of the lines I have are getting old now, so may not be even still made. I've done fine with most any WF line I've used, and like some have said, I use a floating line most of the time. I can't always cast an entire line, but have no issue getting over 70' with most weights & rods/lines I have, but don't fish at that distance too often. I agree that being capable of making a long cast is an advantage, but I prefer to make shorter accurate casts, and fishing from a boat makes that possible. I fish a big lake now, Santee Cooper, so for bass & Stripers, and there's little need to constantly make long distance casts. Besides so far a lot of fishing has been around the cypress tree's and long distance casting isn't needed. As far as lines, I've purchased some of the various specialty lines, sold with names such as Tarpon Taper, or Salmon/Steelhead, and mostly SA, Cortland and Orvis brands. For my fishing, I see little difference even though the specs show some difference in the design of the taper. IMO, that's all well & good for marketing, but unless every fly you cast is the same in size, weight, and wind resistance, by the marketing claims, you should be changing lines every time you change flies if there's any appreciable difference in the flies. No way I'll be doing that as I toss some big flies, and if I need to go smaller, I'll switch to a lighter setup. I also buy lines that may be last years since they're often discounted. and as I mentioned, some of my lines are now getting old, in the 10-15 year old range, so I'll be replacing some of them soon. I did recently buy a line sold by & under the brand name of Irideus in CA. They sell them for Salmon/Steelhead & Trout. Most likely they're being made in China, but so far I'm pleased with them. I also picked up a Rio General Saltwater line for my 10 wt. and expect it will do what I need although I haven't even put in on a reel yet. I don't think I've ever paid more than $40 for a fly line either, and plan to keep it that way.
  6. I caught many of them when I was a kid, fishing for them in late February into April, when they would run up the brackish tidal rivers in MD to spawn. Any flashy fly seems to work, and I used a White Miller wet fly often. We used to catch them fishing for bass & Crappies too on a variety of flies and lures, such as small spinnerbaits. One of the better flies that I caught them on was a small, simple, white feather wing streamer, which I also used for Crappies in the shallow brackish rivers. Clouser Minnows worked too, but I didn't use them as often, unless tied with bead chain or small brass barbells. But toss those white streamers along the edges of the Spadderdock pads, something would usually slam them. These are tied on Gamakatsu B10S hooks in size 6. The fly in the upper right is a mini version of an all white Seaducer, which also is a good fly for Perch & Crappies.
  7. Welcome to Fly Tying! You'll never go wrong paying attention to anything that PT suggests. Generally any soft fibered type of feather can be used for soft hackle flies, but those from game birds & hen chickens are probably the most used. Hackle from birds such as Starlings are used too, so depending on the size of the flies you desire to tie, obtain hackle types that will provide suitable sized hackles. The rest of it is then mostly color or pattern preferences. Soft hackle flies are really not complicated, and shouldn't be over dressed. About two wraps of hackle is all you need. Obtain some of the books/information that PT and others have suggested, and start tying! 👍
  8. I may have posted these previously, but don't recall. Basic Bendback types, but with epoxy coated bodies and weighted with pieces of lead wire along the hook shank to keel them, not wrapped.
  9. I don't know that eyes on shrimp or other patterns are essential, but I do like how they look and prefer them to be a contrasting color, or at least a color that stands out t the rest of the fly color. Black does work well with most colors. I make some eyes with small beads glued on mono, and the entire bead dipped in epoxy. I can make them faster than burning mono, as I never seem to get the "ball" how I want. Once I get them made, which i usually will make a bunch at one time, then i can tie plenty of flies. This was a floating shrimp I did, based on a pattern from Jesse Males.
  10. When I was a kid I drew a lot of flies on graph paper as I envisioned what I wanted to tie. Even did them with various colored pencils. I liked to draw back then. Have not done that in a very, very long time, but have seen some drawings that others have done more recently. It brought back good memories, and IMO, is a good means to help figure out fly patterns. Rich, my college major was architecture, and I could do mechanical drawing a lot better than free hand, art type drawings, but I think hard line drawings of flies cause them to lose some of the character. I would much rather see art forms than mechanical drawings, even of bass bags. I remember all the artwork for flies that used to be in magazines, such as Outdoor Life or Field & Stream, so I guess that has biased my opinion too.
  11. I don't have carpal tunnel thankfully. I've had tendonitis issues in the past, and dealt with that for several years, even after I gave up a job that was causing much of it. I also have a good bit of arthritis in my finger joints, which makes tying difficult sometimes. Now apparently too I have Dupuytren's Contracture in my left hand, which has been making tying and other things challenging. The last few days my back's been bothering me, been sitting a lot working with assembling lures, and prepping jigs for painting, and tonight it's finally caught up with me. This getting older is not for sissies. 🙄
  12. Capt. Bob, Very cool! 👍👍 I seem to recall that Bob White also did some writing.
  13. Fatman, I made a little gadget for doing the two tone colors, using a piece of fiberglass screen and a heavy wire frame. it's small and sits over one of my fluid bed cups. The screen was folded a few times, and after the first paint coat is cured, I reheat, and using a spoon, add a little of the second powder on top of the screen, and spread it with the spoon. When the jig has heated enough, I'll take one from the oven with needle nose pliers, position it under the screen, then tap the screen with the spoon. The powder falls down thru the screen and makes a nice and even coating, and the excess goes back into the cup. These are some spinnerbait heads & jigs that I've done using the screen method. The first photo is gloss greenpumpkin over gloss white, and the next two photo's are some I've been testing with a sparkle black powder over gloss white. My phone camera sucks, so the photo's aren't the best. I tried the brush method, and ended up with pieces of the brush bristles in my powder too many times, and never seemed to get the powder even on both sides of the heads and often too much in one spot. The screen has solved those issues for me, but I'm still in the learning process as far as two tone colors so have a lot to learn.
  14. I'm late to the party! Belated Happy Birthday Mike! A shop is really nice to have! I have a room over our attached garage which hopefully will be my fly tying room. I'll still be doing all my jigs pouring in the garage, but Grandma says I got to get my tying stuff out of our bedroom! 🙄 I need to get it insulated & sheet rock up, and have been waiting for some cooler weather. Been too darn hot to try to work up there over the summer, and still been warm lately, so hopefully soon! Looking forward to seeing how your project progresses! 🙂
  15. Man Poopdeck, I'm sorry to hear this, that you've been accosted by a groundhog! 🙄 They can have a nasty bite, but I can't say I've ever had one attack me. We don't have them here where I now live, but I often encountered them in my travels when I still lived in MD. I even removed several of them for folks when I hunted and trapped back then. They can sure ruin a garden or flower beds. The only advice I can offer is that they're great fried and the fur & tail hair makes wonderful tying materials! 😉
×
×
  • Create New...