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Fly Tying


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About tidewaterfly

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1955

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    Striped Bass
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    South Carolina, (formerly MD)

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  1. I still use Danville's flat nylon thread for a lot of tying, but buy it on 1 ounce spools. Also use other nylon threads that I buy in bulk, and primarily for tying large jigs, as it's a lerger size than I would want to use on flies. I'll have to look into the Guterman threads as I've seen it mentioned before.
  2. Norm, I think that you knew the answer before you posted. What surprises me is many products sold for fly tying or fishing, can be found from other sources and are just marked up with higher prices because they're being sold for tying or fly fishing and very few question it. Even here in these forums, folks have posted in response to questions, to go to a fly shop and buy, when the people asking the question has found a similar or the same item for a lot less from other sources, and are often told it's not the same. In some cases it may not be, but there's various products that are exactly the same. I think some dupe themselves at times or may simply be too stubborn to admit they paid too much. 🙄 How many folks think that "leech yarn" for example, is actually produced specifically for fly tying? Same with these UV Resins. It's more probable they're rebranded, produced for other uses and adopted for tying. Threads are another good example. While some may be produced for tying, all are not. The older folks here who used Nymo & Monocord, those were sewing threads, adopted for tying. Head cements are another that are more than likely, purchased from a large manufacturer, such as those who produce finger nail polish, and repackaged & rebranded. It's possible the formulation is different, more specific to use for tying. That would be no different than going to a hook manufacturer and having hooks made to your specifications, if you're willing to buy a minimum quantity. There's nothing wrong with this, as some products may not otherwise be readily available to tyers, but the differences in prices can be hard to swallow. This adapting products is also not exclusive to fly fishing. I've had folks argue with me about powder coat paints, that a certain company produces them specifically for painting lures and to me that's improbable. The manufacturing process is rather involved and I can't see it to be profitable enough to only manufacture for fishing lure use. I don't buy that brand, I buy my powders in bulk, and what I use certainly doesn't look or perform any different than what that other brand sells, and at a big price difference. Just like with hook manufacturing, there are many more brands than there are actual manufacturers.
  3. Yes sir, except most remove the front hook bend & point on Intruders. The basic idea is still the same.
  4. Yes sir, same basic idea just different applications and hook sizes.
  5. Shanks are now available made of stainless wire, so rusting shouldn't be an issue. I use black nickel finished jig hooks, and they hold up fairly well in saltwater, but not as well as a stainless or tinned hook. I know of some folks in the UK & other European countries, who are using flies like this in saltwater for Sea Run Trout and what they call Saltwater Bass.
  6. Bob, it's a Steelhead/Salmon style fly. They generally attach a looped wire, or braid to either a cut off front section of salmon fly hook, or to a Waddington shank which is also used for Steelhead or Salmon flies. The wire or braid loop allows to attach various hooks, but mostly it's an octopus style hook that will be used. They're intended to allow for better hook ups with short striking fish. Here's what a Waddington shank looks like. Nothing but a wire form where at least one end looks & acts similar to the up eye Salmon fly hooks. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/umpqua-waddington-shank?ds_e=MICROSOFT&ds_c=Shop|CAB|TopPerformers|StandardFishing&msclkid=36f00650a3ec14abb28767160e8b112e&gclid=36f00650a3ec14abb28767160e8b112e&gclsrc=3p.ds Sometimes large Intruders are tied on two of these shanks and the resulting fly is articulated. This fly is not the best example of an Intruder, but it does show the basic idea of the chassis that fatbillybob was asking about. As you can see the fly is tied on the shank, and that wire is solidly attached to the shank and the hook is positioned back on the wire. https://www.bigyflyco.com/SolitudeSignatureIntruder-detail.htm As I had mentioned, I don't care for having the hooks positioned like this, but the style of the fly, with the various materials used makes a good fly with plenty of movement. Watch this video and it will give you a better idea of what it's all about.
  7. Haven't tied them for saltwater use, but could see it working. I tie them for bass, but I tie them more like a bass jig than Intruders for trout, Steelhead or Salmon. I don't use the trailing hook, instead use a hook up front, as I found that bass tend to take that trailing hook too deep. If I was to tie them for saltwater, such as for Redfish, I think I would tie them the same as I do for bass. I thought that I had a photo of one I had tied, but apparently I don't. This fly was purchased to copy it, and to use as a bass fly. I used a 60 degree jig hook instead of the shank & trailing hook. A shank and straight eye hook could be used too, which places the hook point further back, but for my use the single jig hook works fine. IMO, this style of fly can be adapted to use for various fish, so see no reason it couldn't be for saltwater species.
  8. I had not been on here in awhile, too many other things going on. It seems to be about normal, but I think most fishing forums I frequented over the years, slowed this time of year as folks get into the various other sports and hunting seasons.
  9. I pour jigs and other things from 1/100 oz up to 20 ounces. Shot, as was said, is worth a lot more right now as shot, than it ever will be for melting it down. You would be better off selling it and getting some ingots of lead for pouring jigs with it. I've also used a lot of wheel weight lead and never had much problems with it, but I learned that some molds you have to get really hot to get a good pour each time. Most who have problems think that hot is 300-400 degree's and that might work for some molds, not for all. I use an electric hot plate to heat up molds and keep them hot when pouring, and hardness of the lead isn't much of an issue.
  10. I don't know how thick they can handle, don't have one. I did see where a fellow was using one to make bodies for his fly shop. How thick would anyone want to make them? I've generally only used 2 or 3 mm foam when making panfish flies, but have made bass flies using 6mm foam that I cut with scissors or a razor/utility blade.
  11. Thank you! I don't think my guide friend targets any Snook, but yes, they probably would. These would likely work well for Walleye too up north. 😉
  12. Although it may get into some cost, which never seems to stop fly tyers, a Cricut machine can be used to make foam bodies in any shape that you like. I've given it some thought to get one of the machines, but have not done so. A fellow in a Facebook fly tying group posted recently how he produces the bodies using one of those machines for his fly tying business. If you tie a lot of them, that would be the way to go, although it is a fairly large investment. 🙂
  13. Capt Bob, it's good to be busy, but not too busy! Anytime that I'm tying for folks in S. FL., I keep the many posts in mind that you've made of your flies & jigs! 🙂 As always you're tying and jigs look great!👍👍 Thank you for the comment! 😊
  14. Yep, but that's also the business I'm in. 🙂 Thanks for the compliment! 😊
  15. These are the baitfish that the jigs are meant to be imitating.
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