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  1. No. But it comes with a ball pein hammer to smash those barbs.
  2. Wrapping the male ferrule and epoxing it strengthens the male ferrule. The guide wraps epoxy is for protecting the wraps.
  3. When the CV-19 thing is over, make a trip to the Badger Fly Fisher's Spring Opener in Madison, Wi. It in early Feb and has 2 rooms full of demo Fly tyers. I am usually in the Fist Room. https://badgerflyfishers.org/spring-opener/ The Central Wi Chapter of TU holds Troutfest in Winneconne, Wi. I tie at that event also. https://www.cwtu.org/troutfest.htm
  4. I didn't notice the offset head. You are correct!
  5. Having owned a Regal, I personally don't like Regal Vices because they "spit" small hooks. they are also not a true rotary vise that rotates around the axis of the hook. The revolution is a "rotating" vise that and turn the hook over if you have it set up level as in the image below. And when set up to rotate the hook horizontally, how do you mount a small hook to without the jaws getting in the way at the back of the hook? And if you have it set up with the head angled up, it won't rotate the fly so the hook shank stays level. I strongly suggest buying a TRUE ROTARY vise that does everything well. A Renzetti Salt Water Traveller is my suggestion which is cheaper than the Regal you are looking at.
  6. I've not had that problem. Whether it is the size of my fingers or technique or something else, I have not idea. I guess you will have to buy a LAW vise for several thousnad dollars (wink)!
  7. Good observation! I suggest he try Danville Flymaster 140 which is a nylon thread rather than a polyester thread. It will stretch and give him a warning before it breaks. It is also stronger at 907 gms breaking strength than the the Uni 8/0 at 450 gms and is THINNER at .046 mm than the Uni 8/0 which is .051 mm. He could try Veevus 8/0 which is thicker and stronger than Uni 8/0 but the veevus is thicker than the Danville Flymaster 140. The Veevus is also polyester and will not stretch as much as the nylon Danville to give him as much warning about breaking. The OP may have rough hands that fray the thread so use hand lotion to soften them. Also just wrap a hook and practice breaking the thread so you know how much pressure the thread can take.
  8. I'm with you 100%. 6/0 Danville has been the standard, literraly for decades. It is a good thread and I tie a lot of flies with it. Sometimes you need a very fine thread, but a lot of times it causes/temps the tyer to use more wraps.
  9. There is no indication of how large the fly is but I would not use that fly. It has too thick a body and does not look long enough for a hex. The best Hex pattern I know of is John Nebels "Flex Hex." It solves the problem of flies that are true to size for the natural, being too large for the fish to eat because the flies are too stiff. The real hex mayflies are MAYFLIES. They may be big but they still are fragile and even an 8 inch trout can cripple and eat a real Hex. Even with the extended body, you can have hits on the fly that don't hook the fish. Photo of a Hexagenia Limbata Dun Spinner The Flex Hex is the best pattern for this hatch that I have been able to find and I've tried a number of them from traditional patterns tied on straight hooks to extended body patterns tied on shorter hooks. Both have problems hooking up on all takes. The problem is that the naturals are so huge that "stiff" patterns are often pushed out of the way on strike. Unlike the natural which folds up, the stiff tail and body of traditional patterns do not and the fly just gets pushed out of the way unless it is a perfect take. John Nebels "Flex Hex" solves the problem of flies that are true to size for the natural, being too large for the fish to eat because the flies are too stiff. The Flex Hex solves this problem by putting a mono to mono loop hinge in the middle of the pattern and even smaller fish can take in this pattern. It actually fold ups and offers less resistance than the natural. Here is the Pattern: https://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/the-flex-hex Write up on the pattern. https://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/doing-the-limbata Here is how I tie the pattern. It is both a dun and spinner pattern as I explain below so "two birds with one stone" type of fly. I've modified my version of the Flex Hex pattern to a parachute which produces a more realistic impression on the water and can easily be changed into a spinner by cutting off the post. The naturals have a mottled brown body with a yellow abdomen and the cross hatched brown thread on yellow mimics this. Parachutes are best tied with one size longer hackle than the traditional hackled flies and getting hackle that is long enough for a flex hex is difficult. Modern genetic capes have longer feathers with denser hackle but the hackle length is shorter. I use my old Metz necks from the 1980s for the size 2 hackle that I use for this pattern. So don't throw your old necks away. Modern necks are better for almost all patterns but some large flies like Flex Hexs and the Borger Blue Damsel can be tied with the longer less dense fibers of older necks. John Nebel's Flex Hex solves that problem. Here is John Nebel's Original Flex Hex Pattern: https://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/the-flex-hex Write up on the pattern. https://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/doing-the-limbata
  10. No reason to be confused. I use Danvile, UTC, Uni and more recently Veevus. I choose for colors and then for the material since I like the color to match my dubbing. Then I look at threads in terms of what the material is made of, how the thread is constructed. The two most common materials are nylon and polyester. These two materials have different properties. Nylon stretches and so it is an easier material for beginners to use for tying smaller trout flies The reason is that nylon will give the fly tier a warning BEFORE it breaks because it stretches before it breaks. Nylon also is easier to dye in brighter colors so if you need a fly color that "pops" like a fluorescent color, you probably will find that is a brand that is nylon. Danville Flymaster and Wapsi UTC threads are nylon and that is why they are so popular with fly tyers, especially beginners. Beginners will break thread less often with a nylon thread because it gives them a warning and they wrap tighter bodies because the thread contracts once it is tied off. If nylon is so great why would anyone use polyester. The reason is that a none stretching thread ultimately gives the tyer more control and because nylon wraps will loosen over time BECAUSE the tread stretches. The nylon thread wraps are under tension and over time that tension loosens the wraps. Polyester thread wraps are also under tension and because the thread does not stretch the wraps will stay tight. Unithread and Veevus are polyester threads. GSP is another common material but it is usually reserved for tying deer hair bugs or other flies that require a great deal of strength and a material that does not stretch. It also dulls scissors faster. Another consideration is whether the thread is bonded or not and whether the thread can be spit for split thread dubbing. Easy to split threads have very little twist in the tread. Both Veevus and Wapsi UTC are easily split. Danville can also be spilt but it is a twisted thread. Unithread is bonded and is difficult to use for split thread dubbing. If you don’t use split thread dubbing rather than the more traditional dubbing loop, it does not matter whether the tread can be split or not. Whether the thread is twisted or not changes the nature of the thread. Twisting the thread closes up the empty spaces and makes the thread thinner. Untwisted thread lies flatter on the fly when wound on the hook, produces less bulk because there are no empty air spaces as there are when twisted thread loops are stacked up. A versatile thread would be a thread that can can be untwisted or twisted as one needs and if you watch a fly tying demo closely, you will see tyers spin the bobbin to twist or to flatten (untwist) the tread. In fact each wrap of the thread around the hook creates a twist in the thread.
  11. Which Renzetti vise because the most common is the traveler and it does not have an adjustable arm. The Master does and I don't adjust mine at all for small flies. Some presentation models do and others don't.
  12. Don't drink the koolaid! Manufacturers especially Veevus are playing games with the aught labeling system. You would think that a 16/0 thread would be thinner than a 8/0 thread but no so if the manufacturer is different. Why does the Veevus 12/0 in the chart below have the identical denier measurement (70 denier) as the Veevus 14/0? Why is the Veevus 12/0 thicker than the 14/0 in mm (.049 vs .047 mm). I've tied with both 14/0 and 16/0 Veevus. They seem excellent, but not a huge advance over other excellent threads. First of all, there in NO FREE LUNCH in tying threads. Some threads advertise that they are stronger but the strength of thread is from the strength of the AMOUNT of material AND the MATERIAL strength. One thread manufacturer's Nylon and Polyester fiber is not stronger than another manufacturer's Nylon and Polyester fiber. They all buy from the same chemical companies that manufacture the nylon and polyester. Do you think that they can get a custom run of nylon or polyester for the amount of material these guys use? For more than you ever wanted to know about fly tying threads, have a look at this article by Chris Helms: http://www.swtu.org/pdfs/fly_tying/Threads.pdf (It was written before Veevus came on the scene.) One of the lessons from the article is that the "ought" measure of thread size varies all over the place. One maker's 8/0 is the same as another maker's 12/0. For example Uni 8/0 and Benecchi 12/0 are very similar. That has been my experience too. The hook shank below is wrapped with exactly 40 wraps of eight different threads. Why does the UNI 8/0 have less bulk than the Veevus 14/0 and 16/0. Could it be that Veevus is trying to fool us! The third issue is that twisted thread builds up bulk faster than untwisted thread because untwisted lies FLAT and twisted has air spaces between the wraps! Uni thread untwisted. The fourth issue is how the thread is bonded. Here is the best table for tying threads. Many manufacturers have threads rated as "strong". https://globalflyfisher.com/tie-better/fly-tying-thread-table
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