Guest Report post Posted October 24, 2020 Ah right boys and girls, animal crackers. Floating Game Changer. Styrofoam balls Solarez on the shanks. Hackle then ball on each shank. Gotta see how it looks in da water. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly 0 Report post Posted October 24, 2020 That's an interesting take, denduke. Beats the hell out of trying to put the Predator wrap on a shank and then trimming it. It will work. I could see doing that in black/olive for an eel pattern or a leech pattern. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted October 24, 2020 Problem is Philly it just pulls straight across the surface. Put it in rain barrel. If you twitch it it’ll kinda squirm but needs sumthin. Not on a rod yet. Might walk the dog with lil twitches. That would be nice. Maybe if the tail was weighted some might create a wiggle or maybe one of your diving lips on the front ball. Was thinking of doing one with foam sheet crease fly style but it’s prolly just gonna lay over flat and just track straight too. Prolly do a feathered one next. Need to learn Wally Wings and or Origami wings for my mayflies too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly 0 Report post Posted October 25, 2020 4 hours ago, denduke said: Was thinking of doing one with foam sheet crease fly style but it’s prolly just gonna lay over flat and just track straight too. Prolly do a feathered one next. Need to learn Wally Wings and or Origami wings for my mayflies too. Wally Wings and/or Origami wings are a waste of time. They're a pain to make. They make the fly harder to cast and I don't think they catch more trout. I just fish generic flies that may resemble a mayfly. I tie my crease flies so they ride straight up rather than on their sides. I place the hook higher in the body and when I glue the body together I use a clamp to compress the foam in the belly portion which basically creates a keel that allows the fly to sit straight up and not on it's side. If you look hard enough you should be able to see it in the picture. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted October 25, 2020 Thanks work in progress..... the mayflies are sideline/ just wanted to try it. Very rare I’ll try a Humpy,Midge, Caddis mostly only dry stuff is hopper/dropper for trout. When I was making the hollow foams I had to address that float issue. Trying to get the GC floater to snake like the wet version is the problem I’m creating. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2020 Trying out some dragon tails. So far I like them from a purely ease and quickness standpoint. Hopefully will see how they look in the water before winter sets in. That may not happen till spring though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 1, 2020 Looks wicked👍 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2020 Looks good. I've got two or three I need to use up. The one I did use I attached to a slider head, plan to water proof the dragon tail before I try it out next spring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2020 What do you do to waterproof the tail? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2020 Most likely Water Shed which is liquid though I may use another floatant that I can rub in. The tail won't look as fluffy but it will last longer. The mop piece on this was treated with the rub in floatant. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MuskyFlyGuy 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2020 Let us know how the water proofing goes. I have tied some large dragons. They have great action, but get very heavy when water logged. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2020 I tied this one on at the hook bend and underwrapped the shank with chocklett body wrap before tying the dragon tail down at the hook eye and a brush collar. It's a very dense water moving head. Also added a mono loop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 8, 2020 Tried some bright lead eyed marabou tailed. I think Flytier put em somewhere. When I find interesting flies I screenshot them and go back to them later. My version doesn’t have long shank hooks and the bodies are tubing wound on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly 0 Report post Posted November 9, 2020 Finally got around to taking some pictures. Here's the one we talked about early. A a blunt nose slider, even weedless, with a dragon tail. I used a rub in floatant on the dragon tail. It's a lot thinner than an untreated one. I'll tie another one using a liquid floatant. Once it dries it should maintain the original shape. These are some weighted panfish flies. Hook: Gamakatsu B10S, size 6 Thread: Clear polyester Weight: Black bead head Tail: Part of a soft plastic bait "Hackle": Spinnerbait skirt layers Thorax: Pearl/ice chenille Some panfish size floating mop flies. The first two are traditional mop flies. The last one is tied with something called "Predator-9 Worm soft chenille for bass" Hook: Gamakatsu B10S size 6 Thread: Clear polyester Body: Mop piece 1 to 1/2 inches long Head: Dumbbell/boobie shape tied with1/4 inch foam cylinder Thorax/collar: Black pearl/ice chenille Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted November 9, 2020 Idea from the Bluegill page. Lil CA glue along top of hook to the worm might help hold it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites