Cagolddigger

Check out this thread: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?sho...367&hl=biot

Ya not working on IE either. hmmmm...

Does the pattern database have a problem? When I use the - List By:- buttons I get an error. Looks like all the other functions work, its just the List By buttons. I use Firefox browser.

Great info. Thanks.

I thought it was a good site. The videos were great. Even though some of it is NJ based (as I am from California) it still was some useful info. I think we should embrace any one or site that will take their time to put tying and fishing videos up for the general public, free of charge. I give them a big THANK YOU. I bookmarked their site and can not wait for more.

Here is the recipe: Hook size: 6-12 eye down dry fly Thread: olive Tail: 2 pieces of crystal flash green Butt: peacock herl Ribbing: fine silver wire Body: green antron dubbing Underwing: packing foam thin wing 1/4 of body length past hook Legs: zebra rubber legs Overwing: elk or deer hair beige to end of hook Post: white or pink hackle around post green grizzly Thorax: green dubbing *Note: Picture not my own

Just a couple tips for ya on tying the hackle. I'm also still learning, so if someone sees any wrong advice just say so. On the first fly. I have found that when tying a softer hackle I like to measure the length of the hackle relative to the hook point (meaning the feather, when tied on, will usually end at the hook point). I will then stroke the the feather the opposite direction to help separate the feather. Tie it in by the tip of the feather with the concave side down. I find this helps wind the feather back. While you are winding the hackle, stroke the feather back towards the body. This will also help separate the feather. Usually 2-3 turns will do. Tie off the feather. As far as the body dubbing, that just takes practice. It's always better to have less than too much. You can always add more. Some use wax and others don't (I don't. Good old spit on the fingers). Just a preference. And lastly. Much about a fly is proportions. The tails length, the body, the thorax, the head, the hackle lengths, and wing lengths. Again, that will come with repetition. Tie a fly that are easiest. Start with buggers and griffith's gnats and when you have tied 20+ of those and have it looking great, move to the next fly (like a gold ribbed hares ear or variations of the partridge and yellow soft hackles) and tie that till it looks great. They don't have to look perfect. I strive for proportions. Anyway, looks like you're off to a good start and just practice, practice, and practice.

You wanted the easiest :dunno: Two of the easiest stone fly patterns: Teds Stone Thread: Black Tail: Two reddish brown gooses biots Body: Brown chenille Wingcase: Brown chenille Thorax: Orange chenille Hackle: Black hackle, palmered over thorax Montana Stone Thread: Black Tail: Black hackle fibers Body: Black chenille Wingcase: Black chenille Thorax: Yellow chenille Hackle: Black hackle, palmered over thorax

Thanks guys. I will try them out.

It is amazing what the search function can do for you. :dunno: I found lots of good info. It seems I was not laying down a base. So I will try that and see if it solves my problem. Makes sense, without it the floss can move around. Trial and error.

I also just started tying soft hackle flies. The problem I am having is the floss (unifloss) slipping on the butt end. I start the floss up by the thorax with 2-3 turns to tie it down, wrap to the back and back up to the starting point and unwind my thread and tie the floss down. I'm not sure if this a good way to do it, but it just made sense to me to keep the floss from getting a big bump. For some reason the floss slips on the butt end and I'm not sure why. Are the wraps too loose? Do I need a thread base down the entire length of the hook? Also, is there any links to some good tips or directions for applying floss?

This might help ya out: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32171 The same principle can be used on feathers. Just remember not to use too much heat when dying feathers.

I also tie them in by the tip. The tip is much thinner and easier to tie in. Also, when you go wind, the feather (when tied in by the stem) it will tend to break. Not to mention it will take up more room on the hook then if it is tied by the tip. I would say that by tying in by the tip you get a sparse look to the hackle.

From Sacramento...

Thanks Bowfin. I will keep all those things in mind on the next fly I spin. As I said this was my first one spinning. Everything spun on great until I got to the last bit. I was actually surprised how well I did. The hair was compact and the separation of color was well defined. The deer hair I have is of mediocre quality. It is all I have at the moment until the full hide I have is finished curing. I will then be cutting it to manageable sizes and dyeing it. Anyway, I will keep all the great advise in mind when attempting more spun flies and when I can get my camera to take a half way descent picture I will be sure to post some pics. Again thank you and thanks to all the other tiers on this forum for the great information they post and the help they give to us newer tiers.