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Piker20

protecting our investment.

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Ok so I've forked out for a shiny new rod for my shore fishing and would like to spray/rub/brush something on the blank to help stave off the effects of salt water on ring whippings etc for a bit longer than might otherwise take. OR is it simply wash the rod after use and the rings will go eventually no matter what?

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I've never heard of anyone using a protective coating, though I'm sure there's somebody out there trying to sell you one - salt water's gonna get your guides sooner or later no matter what you do, and a rinse should get as much of the salt out as possible. My guides usually last at least five years (usually much longer) and they're lucky to get a rinse every fifth time out during the spring and fall runs. However, the gear rarely leaves the car, so it stays warm and dry when I'm not using it. Quality saltwater gear should be able to stand a lot of abuse - that's why none of it's cheap.

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Coat everything in "cosmoline". I don't know if that's the real name, spelled correctly or anything. When I was in the Marine Corps, all new weapons came coated in this stuff. Thick, brown, sticky and hard as hell to get off. But NOTHING would get through it except solvent, so weapons coated in it were preserved practically forever.

 

You might not like using your equipment, but it won't corrode !!!

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There might be a better way than cosmoline..... I was taught years ago to very carefully wax every shiny portion of a new rod before using it -and I still do that today (and that goes for every style... plug, spin, fly...). It will make a difference long term. Since I not only build most of my own rods (except fly rods - I'm using factory fly rods since I can't build a replacement quickly enough when a rod is broken...) but also repair them... I have a pretty good idea of what keeps them working properly. By the way, that waxing stuff (a good quality automotive or fiberglass wax) is also good for new reels -particularly the inside of reel spools where line with salt will always be in direct contact with the metal surface....

 

As far as the guides go, even with a careful rinse and dry after each outing -guides take a beating. How soon you'll wear them out or break one is in direct relation to how much they get used....

 

Tight Lines

Bob LeMay

(954) 435-5666

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Cheers guys. Yeah think I'll be avoiding the weapon gloop. I might rub it down with some surfboard wax.

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Never really thought of treatments before, i have a saltwater rod here from 1998 that shows slight discoloration under the guide wraps but is still fine, won't effect it....All i have ever done is rinse in fresh water asap after every outing. I even take my freshwater 5wt to the beach, if i miss 1 day of rinsing the handle bit goes all green but can be scrubbed off, with rinsing no probs. Ahhh so glad i live in freshwater land now, so do not have to worry about that at all! YAY....Oh oh also in my rod tubes and reel bag i keep zerust tabs, also work wonders in the saltwater boxes! Yep these are great stuff!

 

http://www.flambeauhardware.com/rust_inhibit/additions.asp

 

Go crazy.

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Mike, that's really interesting. I suppose it works on the same principle as sacrificial anodes do on outboards. Definitely gotta get some for the fly boxes.

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Hi Peter, yeah not bad - got got one in my little charlie box and kind of stopped the browning of everything inside it. Also built a box for a guide and attached a few inside it, he says it has not even shown signs of corrosion yet, i would probably still maybe rise and dry flies if you have time or can tho i know in that charlie box a lot have gone back 'as is' judging by the amount of sand and crap inside it.

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You can wax a rod unlimited times - but once a year, maybe twice, is the most I ever do. When I started out with fly gear quite a few of the reels we used had painted surfaces so wax was important (but it only served to delay the inevitable...). Waxing a rod and the finish over the thread wraps also allow you to clean things up -but won't delay the thread from fading due to sun exposure....

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