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Fly Tying


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  1. Well thank you, pretty new to the wool heads, but it came out decent. I decided to switch it up this week and added black ostrich herl to the butt, tied the hackle as a throat, but broke my thread while setting the wing, but was able to catch the thread, put in a half hitch, and put a drop of cement on the spot, then tied in the thread over the cement and let it dry. Set the wing, added red goose horns, finished with a wool head. Same hook, alec Jackson steelhead irons size 5.
  2. Claret Montreal, I tied another to make sure to put the hackle in-front of the wing this time. Got to work on my bodies and tapering. Tied on Alec Jackson steelhead irons, size 5.
  3. Absolutely, I do definitely enjoy this hobby, I’ve got a list of flies I would love to tie. Some need some unique materials, though not as rare as red Indian crow. Also thanks for the information on the gut loop position, most of what I’ve found online just says attach gut to hook.
  4. I’ve looked into the silkworm gut, I just had all the materials laying around the house. I just didn’t feel it necessary to purchase gut when I could make my own. Also, is it proper to tie in the gut loop below or along side the hook? I’ve seen pictures and instruction on both ways.
  5. It was referred to as etching by an article I read, I know the main ingredient of super glue is an acid, not sure what they fumes would be considered. I do know their tendency to seek out oil and moisture and cling to it, the worst part of attaching a mode canopy is seeing a finger print appear inside. I did more line the same way, I can scrap off some white dusting, but I can’t restore the original surface. Either way, it seams to work for learning. I kinda want to do an experiment with cleaning the line prior to sealing in with glue and see if that has an effect.
  6. That they do, I could only find claret floss in genuine silk, so what I used was uni-floss wine, really close color I think.
  7. The mono is mostly clear, and after it gains a frosted like appearance. The vapors put out by curing superglue etches clear parts. I built scale models for years and dealt with many canopies fog up. I’m sure it helps aid in grip, but I think it’s more appearance. Could be wrong I haven’t worked actual gut before. Mark that’s pretty funny, hope your friend doesn’t pass gas near hog farms too often!
  8. Noahguide, on one note, my son is Noah! Thanks for posting that video, it’s neat to see different methods. I’ve seen those rope machines used when I was building scale models. I just twisted mine between two clamps and that worked well.
  9. Hey all, i got some new materials and got to pick up some blind eye hooks, already have some patterns picked out. But before I tie on the blind hooks I need to attach a gut loop to it. Seeing how its hard to get a hold of I looked for alternatives and ran across an article about using tippet mono line, so the first step was what they called etching. place a length of line in a small container, I used a small candle jar. Then put a small pool of super glue in the container and seal it for a day. That worked well as it turned the mono into a better color. Plus the line became less stiff, but seamed to retain its strength. After a day in the jar, the next step was to polish the line, they mentioned using wax, I just held the line against a block of bees wax and pulled several times. Then cut three length of line, knotted one end, clamped both ends in clamps. Next is to set the twist, they call for two pans of water, one iced and one boiling. I just used the sink cold water. Twist the line, submerge in water for 10-20 seconds then I held the line under the running water for a couple minutes. The right angle bend you see was due to me using a sauce pan the full length of line when pulled taught, so I submerged for the same amount of time and pulled the line taught before going under the water. This was my second attempt at getting the gut on the hook, think I need a little more practice but not a horrible job. I do not know how real gut ties like, but this wasnt a horrible process and I can reuse the class jar to etch more line.
  10. I was finally able to get some more materials, I also bought some blind eye hooks to tie some Mary Orvis Marbury flies. So I decided to tie each patter on an eyed salmon hook before doing the blind eye. Here is the Claret Montreal MOM fly, tied on a size 5 Alec Jackson steelhead irons. The wing is the uniform color because I wasnt able to locate my new matched pair of turkey tail, so I had to use the tips of a mostly used up feather. Plus I should have tied in the wing, then the hackle, but did it the opposite like I normally do.
  11. I was tying dry ants today, Hook: orvis 1523 size 10 Thread: veevus 6/0 black Body: black rabbit bud, two elliptical bunch’s split by hackle hackle: whitining brown dry fly hackle Head: black thread I did also tie rusty ants with the same hackle and thread.
  12. When I first started tying, I was always impressed with married wing flies, and honestly never thought I would have been ever skilled enough to even get a decent wing tied let alone a married wing. Last night I was messing around with mounting wings again, trying out a trick I saw that was posted here like 15 years ago. It uses dental floss threaders to do the mounting. I was trying that out, and having also watched some tiers marrying wings; “eff it” I thought and cut some slips from my ozark turkey quill and ozark turkey tail, and eventually got two sections married. So today I was a tad bored after doing dishes, cleaning the serious of high velocity fans I have to move heat around the house. So I cut more slips, freestyle tied a fly, and we’ll see for yourself.
  13. Some good pliers I would like to try, I will have to make an effort to use the pliers for more than just the peacock herl, but definitely going to look into the recommendations
  14. Last night I was tying some gnat flies. A good for some relaxed tying, I decided to give my hackle pliers another try. I’ve always had trouble with them, both slipping and breaking hackle. One gnat I have to re-tie the peacock herl 3 times, twice the pliers slipped or broke a herl. I switched to my hands and finished the fly. So which begs the question, do you all use pliers? What ones do you use? I have the pliers I attached pictures of, I have been intrigued by the cottarelli hackle pliers, but also looking for other options as well.
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