Buzzers

[Mustang Mike 0]

I posted this in the tying bench and didn't get back any replies, so I thought I'd toss it in here to see what responses I might get back.

 

I've tied midges before, for still water nymphing, (zebra, and the like), but not the buzzer/chironomid nymphs. I noticed when I researched the database that a couple had orange (or red?) in the thorax that seemed to be “surrounded” by some other material. (See the American Buzzer, Peccary Buzzers, or Glass Buzzer as examples.)

 

None of the patterns have very extensive tying instructions. So, … how the heck DO you tie these babies??!?? :wallbash:

 

Has anyone fished them out here in California and if so, where?

 

Thanks!!

 

 

[Graham 0]

Hey Mustang Mike, I think Buzzers is the British name for midges? or maybe it also includes other small pesky flies that buzz around you while fishing?

 

Graham

[mtn 0]

Hey mustang mike, graham is right when he says buzzers are the british term for midges, there are alot of types of buzzer including epoxy, shuttlecock etc. The easiset buzzer pattern i know of is simply, head:peacock herl Body:thread Ribbing gold/silver wire. Start the thread at the head run down the shank just round the bend, tie in the wire, form a neat body give four even turns of the ribbing then add you peacock herl and form a nead head and whip finish. (use 3 strands of peacock herl). By the way here in britan we fish them dead drift or very very slow figure of eight i don't know how you would fish them in the us though.

[JarrodRuggles 0]

Buzzers

[mtn 0]

I took some pictures for you mustang mike,

 

 

Insert hook in vice

Step 1

 

Start thread

Step 2

 

Add ribbing

Step 3

 

Wind thread back up to eye covering tag end of ribbing all the way to create an even body

Step 4

 

Wind ribbing in even turns

Step 5

 

Add peacock herl and whip finish

Step 6

 

Hope that helps.

[Alex_F 0]

Hi Mike. Yep buzzer is the onamatapaeic name for the non biting Chironomid midge. Get one in your ear and you'll understand why they're called buzzers. Over here in the UK they often make up over 50% of the stillwater Trout diet which is why you'll find so many immitations.

 

The orange material is usually either dyed goose biot or globrite floss in shades 4 to 6. The thorax material is pattern dependant. With some it's seals fur, with others it's peacock herl or just a build up of tying silk. With the glass type buzzer immitations the shiney coat is either 5 minute epoxy, Sally Hansens Hard as Nails clear varnish or superglue.

 

If you follow the link provided by Jarrod you'll get to my style of buzzer patterns which give reasonable instructions within the material list.

 

However, here's a fuller step by step for the quill body pattern..

 

Step 1) Tie on silk and take it in touching turns to the point where the body starts (at the hook bend). Make sure you leave a long tail of tying silk as you'll use this as ribbing later on.

 

Step 2) Tie in the stripped Peacock quill by the tip and then take the silk back up to the point where you want the thorax to start. Wind the stripped herl up to the point where you want the thorax to start and tie off and trim.

 

Step 3) Rib the body with the "tail" of tying silk you left after whipping the silk on. Use 3 - 4 open turns so you don't obscure the natural segmentation effect of the Peacock quill. Tie the rib off and trim.

 

Step 4) Tie in a section of broad flat pearl tinsel as the thorax cover pointing back over the body of the fly.

 

Step 5) Tie in the two dyed Goose biots by the tip on the underside of the thorax area so that they point back along and slightly under the body on each side of the hook.

 

Step 6) Make up a slightly bulbous thorax of tying silk.

 

Step 7) Tie in a strand of white polyprop yarn, wool or floss for the breathers. Leave maybe 3/4" hanging over the eye of the hook.

 

Step 8) Pull the butt ends of the Goose biots forward under and to the side of the thorax to form the cheeks and tie off and trim.

 

Step 9) Pull the Pearl tinsel forward and over the thorax to form the thorax cover and tie off and trim.

 

Step 10) Take a few turns to form the head and whip finish.

 

Step 11) Apply two or three coats of Hard as Nails varnish to the whole fly taking care not soak the white yarn. To do this hold the fly by the long bit of yarn that you left (see there was a logic to it ) and apply the varnish with a bodkin or the brush provided. Let each coat dry thoroughly before applying a new one.

 

Step 12) Once the last coat of varnish is dry, trim the white yarn close to the eye to form the breather.

 

Step 13) Go catch fish.

 

With stripped Peacock quill you can cover most natural nymph colours. Natural quill for brown, dyed red for black, dyed yellow for light olive, dyed olive for dark olive and dyed green for the dark bottle green. The Peacock quill should always be tied in by the tip end as this way the segmentation effect will get wider towards the head, just like the natural.

 

As far as coating goes, I prefer Sally Hansens Hard as Nails varnish as 5 minute epoxy is too gloopy for me and harder to control on small flies. With superglue you have to be careful which type you use because if you get the wrong sort it goes cloudy after a few times in the water which ruins the effect somewhat.

 

Hope this helps. Any more questions, just shout out.

[Mustang Mike 0]

Thanks Alex! Your instructions were indeed a help! I'm going to put them and the pictures in my notebook. That said, ...

 

It may be a semantic problem, or just my ignorance, but are you referring to tying thread (or floss) when you mention tying silk?

 

I have yet to use goose biots, so I'll have to either get make a run to Bob Marriott's (near my home), or find a substitute (if there IS one!?!)

 

I could tie the peacock herl and thread style now though!!

[Alex_F 0]

Hi Mike. Yeah, it's just semantics. When I say silk I'm referring to tying thread. For reference I use Roman Moser Powersilk 8/0 in various colours for virtually everything except north country spiders and muddlers.

 

Instead of Goose biots you can use fluorescent floss in red or orange. I use a doubled strand of Datam globrite floss in shades 4, 5 or 6.

 

If I get round to it I'll put some pictures to the step by step and post it in the pattern tutorial section.

 

Good luck with your buzzers. The thing to keep in mind is that the naturals are quite slim, your imitations should be the same.

[flytire 0]

Heres a buzzer tutorial. substitute the material to what you have on hand

 

http://www.flyforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=379