More North Shore sunrise images

[Wulff 0]

Went back for some more first light images on Lake O's North Shore. -5 t -10 and what a glorious sunrise it was to.

 

First light

 

Couple minutes later

 

About 15 minutes after first light the Orange glow was magnified by the steam rising off the lake.

 

 

 

Shortly after that the sun was getting a bit too high so I left to stalk some White Tails. That was a glorious outing to with about 30 individual WTs located. More on that later, as Im still processing the dozens of shots but heres a teaser.

 

[oatka 0]

awesome photos!!!

[WYKnot 0]

Very nice pictures, the lead shot of sun rise is my favorite.

[Tybugs1 0]

Hi Wulff

 

Awesome shots as usual!! For the learning what lenses and settings did you use? If classified material it's okay and understand

 

Lynn

[Wulff 0]

Thanks guys.

 

Lynn.

Both sunrise shots were taken with the 24-70 f2.8 L at ISO 200,1/100th f22, evaluative metering, with - 2/3 EC on the first and -1/3 on the second. In both cases I metered off the sky above the sun. BY metering off the sky and dialing in - EC I ensure Im not blowing te highlights but its still exposed enough to bring out details in the darker areas. The Histrogram helps. If id metered off any else, either te water or sun Id blow te sun to hell and back.

 

So the key there is where you meter and your histogram, not so much what iso/fstop and SS.

 

The bird silohettes were shots with the 400mm. ISO 400, at f5.6 with + 1/3 EC at 1/5000th to 1/2500th. Bascially set to ensure the birds are siloettes and yet still get the water, without blowing highlights.

No time to check histograms with this type of shot.

[Neil M 0]

Really nice photography, those pics are definaly inspiring

 

[Will Milne 0]

John

 

Your bird work has always been top drawer and very inspiring- great to see you moving into landscape work - WHAT!!!!!!! you could'nt find some tougher exposure/subject matter to start with???)) Great work with a very difficult set of circumstances to master...

 

To be honest I'm jealous- water won't be free flowing here for another month or two and I'm deep into a bathroom/main hallway/basement renovation , desperatly trying to get done before the open water season breaks open.

 

 

keep them coming

 

Will

[Wulff 0]

John

 

Your bird work has always been top drawer and very inspiring- great to see you moving into landscape work - WHAT!!!!!!! you could'nt find some tougher exposure/subject matter to start with???)) Great work with a very difficult set of circumstances to master...

 

To be honest I'm jealous- water won't be free flowing here for another month or two and I'm deep into a bathroom/main hallway/basement renovation , desperatly trying to get done before the open water season breaks open.

 

 

keep them coming

 

Will

 

Thanks Will.

Were in the teeth of a another winter storm warning tonight. The worst of it is sposed to hit right on top me

Man, just when you think winter might be losing its grip.

 

Good news is you'll finish before openers, so theres a silver lining. Not sure I'd use the phrases "water free flowing and water breaks open in the same paragraph as one that leads off with Bathroom Renos hough, but heh nothing wrong with a little toiletry

 

You could try some Macro shooting while doing the plumbing to tide you over

 

Take care, you'll get back out soon enough

J

[Mokai 0]

Great stuff John..Loved them all..

[Tybugs1 0]

Thanks guys.

 

Lynn.

Both sunrise shots were taken with the 24-70 f2.8 L at ISO 200,1/100th f22, evaluative metering, with - 2/3 EC on the first and -1/3 on the second. In both cases I metered off the sky above the sun. BY metering off the sky and dialing in - EC I ensure Im not blowing te highlights but its still exposed enough to bring out details in the darker areas. The Histrogram helps. If id metered off any else, either te water or sun Id blow te sun to hell and back.

 

So the key there is where you meter and your histogram, not so much what iso/fstop and SS.

 

The bird silohettes were shots with the 400mm. ISO 400, at f5.6 with + 1/3 EC at 1/5000th to 1/2500th. Bascially set to ensure the birds are siloettes and yet still get the water, without blowing highlights.

No time to check histograms with this type of shot.

 

Thanks

 

Gives me some ideas on how you got there I have found the EC and have played with that a little. If we can ever get something go other than snow it might be more than just sunsets

 

 

 

[Wulff 0]

lynn use +/- EC when your shooting in AV or TV and when in M just dial it in directly. Meaning if the meter is telling X is a proper exposure increase or decrease your SS by 1/3 to 1 full stop.

 

THeres different times when you want = or -. Most of goes back to discussions about black and white. Meaning if you are taking a landscape wih alot of snow add a little + ec, either 1 or 2 thirds. Likewise i shooting ablack bear underexpose a bit.

 

Adding exposure brings out more detail in shadows and blacks, underexposure does the same in whites. But theres a delicate line bcause sometimes as with a snowscape you want your whites, white, not grey, inwhich case you need to overexpose a bit

 

Maning if shooting a swan Id likely underexpose a bit because I want to record as much feather detail as possible. If shooting a Snowman id likely add a bit as I want it white.

 

Get in the habit of checking your histogram, push it to the right butno so far as to blow your highlights. If you have a clipping warnings on your lcd trn it on. Any blown details will blink. Then you know i you need to adjust + or -.

 

J

 

[JayMorr 0]

Thanks for the help Wulff! I recently turned my clipping warnings on and it has helped tremendously. However I am still trying to fully understand the +/-EC. It can be tricky.

 

 

[Frogfish 0]

Nice photos John! I love the second to last!

[Vito1 0]

Very, very well done. Like I said before, I love your whitetail deer photos.

[Wulff 0]

Thanks Vito.

Keep an eye out for my next post then. To put it mildly Im tickled with some of the shots I got

 

Jay.

For most static type shots the combinaton of your histogram and clip warning is enough tha you could shoot witout ever looking at your setting.

 

Generally you want your histo to favor the rightside. If your shots i all blacks, browns grey well your not going to push over to the riht but you can be right of center. If its balanced shot across the spectrum you want your histo to be just short of the right edge which for lack of better words would be pure white. If any pixels are right of that they are blown and will show on your LCD. If thats the case dial in -1/3 to -2/3 EC either with EC itself or directly if in M.

 

Another example might be shooting a bird or Moose against a dull grey sky. In order to get any detail on the subject you'll almost certainly have to blow the sky. Now the camera will "meter" for proper exposure. If you let it everythin is going to be dull and grey. Exactly, what the camera is supposed to do. But your subject wont have any detail or colour.

 

So you overexpose to the point where the dull (but lighter than everything else) sky is completely blown. Your histo and clip warning will tell you when. This shot, while it wont get printed did let me capture a Merlin eating a mouse. Its for me so do I care if the skys blown? Nope. It was overcast and drizzling in reality.

 

Note how theres feather detail even in the black wing. Only way to get that is to overexpose. If I recal correctly its 2 full stops overexposed. If your in M ( like this shot) you set your camera to overexpose by X, if your in AV or TC you dial in + 2 EC.

 

 

A good way to play with it and get comfortable is to practise with predominantly white or black subjects like cars, seagulls, etc with Spot metering. Take a shot with what the camera says is a "proper" exposure. Than dial in a full stop of + or - EC ans see the difference.