grimme 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2008 are some materials easier to dubb than others? if so what is the easiest? just started trying to dubb, my hands are either that rough its like their covered in velcro and I cant get the dubin to let go, or that smooth I cant spin the dubb, and it always turns into a shoe lace. to get it to wrap arond the thread it is that tight that i might as well use floss, or it resembles a bit of string spiralled around the thread that unravels as I wind it! At what point does the frustration of tying turn into pleasure? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Big E Report post Posted November 5, 2008 Yeppers, some are much harder than others. What type of dubbing are you using? I find that spiker dubbing is harder to just put on the thread. For example, seal fur is sometimes difficult to dub. Couple pointers are to use waxed thread, use dub wax, or make a dubbing loop. Once you have the dubbing on the thread and put it on the hook you can then use a dubbing brush (fine metal brush like to clean gun barrels) to tease the dubbing and give it that spikey appearance. If you are putting the dub on the thread you can wet your fingers and twist the dubbing on or if you are using wax you can spin your bobbin clockwise to trap the dubbing. I'm sure they'll be several responses to this as there are plenty of ways to dub. Stick with it, dubbing gets easier to work with the more you do it. One problem I had that you might be doing is applying too much dubbing. Make it sparse and use more thread wraps to build it up instead of gobbing on loads of dub onto a short section of thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hairstacker 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2008 Yep, there is considerable variation in difficulty. I've always thought the very fine pre-packaged "dry fly" dubbings and straight rabbit hair dubbings to be on the very easy to easy end of the spectrum, respectively. These you should have no problem twisting on to your thread, as long as you follow two guidelines: Apply very little dubbing to the thread (less than you might be inclined to use) and twist the dubbing on to the thread in one direction only(!). -- Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustinDavis 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2008 Another point is when you pull your dubbing out of the package it is usually very packed together. Take a couple of minutes to pull it apart and fluff it out a bit. That usually helps me out when applying dubbing. It makes it easier to not add too much. If your dubbing has really long fibers you can cut it up a bit. Justin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peregrines 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2008 Yeah, some synthetics can be difficult too. A couple things to try: Waxed thread, or dubbing wax should help. Any wax will work to some extent, including candles, x country ski wax etc. Don't over dub_ A little goes along way- most folks use way too much when first starting out. Use 1/2 of what you think you'll need, cut it 1/2 and then use 1/2 of that. If you're getting a rope of dubbing it could be a sign you're using too much unless you're trying to get heavier bulkier looking nymphs. If you're getting a rope for dry flies it's probably way too much Coarse dubbing for nymphs etc you might want a dubbing loop. Put it on perpendicular, not parallel on one side of the thread loop then twist. The tackiness of wax should help the dubbing stick to one side of the thread loop Smaller chopped, finer dubbing for dry flies, touch wisps of dubbing to the thread and twist in one direction, using small amounts on the tying thread without a loop. Hope this helps. peregrines Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flykid 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2008 If you need some dry fly dubbing go to flytyersdungeon.com. It is DIRT CHEAP! but it is THE easiest thing in the world to dub. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruce Derington 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2008 All good info for you , PAY GREAT ATTENTION TO JUSTIN AND HAIRSTACKER(Mike) comments because those 3 suggestions are most likely the most important IMOM. I would be glad to meet with you in the Classroom(virtual), that way you could see in realtime several different techiques. PM me if interested Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Futzer 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2008 I spin the dubbing in a CCW direction between my right hand thumb and forefinger. In Utah dry skin is a killer on hands, so I use hand lotion in the morning and before bed. If it is a dry fly you are doing, I use a little sticky wax on the thread first about 3/8 inch long, then I moisten my thumb and forefinger with a little tiny bit of mucilin. Imagine you are building a small carrot, thin point towards the hook and bigger side away. As Peregrine warned use far less than you think, you can always add more dubbing, but subtracting it is a pain. Any way spin CCW, release, reset fingers and spin again, do this until the dubbing is tightly wrapped to the thread, then tie it in. Don't spin back and forth, as it tightens then loosens the dubbing. It does take practice, but is not hard to master either. If I am dubbing a nymph, I keep a semi wet sponge by my vice and wet the tips of my thumb and fore finger ever so slightly, instead of the mucilin, that is if the dubbing is misbehaving. Usually you do not need the sponge trick. I use the dubbing brush methods when I want lots of guard hairs sticking out, or for large flies. Cheers Futzer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the saltydog 0 Report post Posted November 6, 2008 use dubbing wax and for the finer (dry) stuff, just touch the dubbing to the waxed thread and then pinch and spin, you use less then you think... for the heavy (wet) stuff like coarse hair, make a dubbing loop...use less then you think. the rope you are getting is an indication you are putting too much on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DHise 0 Report post Posted November 6, 2008 There is variation. Put away half of what you pulled out of the package and that is still too much. Dub with little amounts only. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytyinfreak 0 Report post Posted November 17, 2008 Like Futzer said and hair stacker said a litle bit of dubbing and always always roll it on your waxed thread counter clockwise. just gotta work at it. it took me quite awhile to get good a dubbing. A great great tyer I know goes by the name of Cliff Sullivan told me that dubbing correctly applied should make the thread look "dirty" I mean he used that small of an amount so that the thread was slightly doubled in diameter if that.You can always make more wraps to make a nice body but trying to do it all in a few wraps never works, well I take that back Polly Rosbough used to tie great flies with his worm technique but that would only frustrate you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites