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Fly Tying


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About Hairstacker

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    Tracy, CA

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  1. Backing and leader? Where's your fly line?
  2. perchjerker, I'm glad you weighed in, as I didn't realize there were two different suture kits. All I know is I have a medical worker who is giving me scissors (and hemostats) from one of these kits and they are very sharp scissors with fine points -- sounds like it must be the suture kit you mentioned (versus the suture removal kit). -- Mike
  3. Ladyfisher, welcome aboard! Your tool list looks good. Those scissors you mentioned are very handy -- save every pair you come across, as they're great for trimming deer hair bass bugs. When you pick out your whip finisher, make sure it's a Matarelli-style. If you only get one hair stacker, go for a big one. To answer your question, the Brassie is used to pack (i.e., compress) deer hair that has been spun/stacked on a hook -- very useful if you decide to tie deer hair bass bugs. While you're getting your tools, pick up some 3X-long streamer hooks, which are the standard for tying Woolly Buggers. Something like a Tiemco TMC5263 model hook that is 3X-long, 2X heavy. Size 6 is a good, general size for tying woolly buggers for all-around freshwater bass fishing. A decent book can also help you immensely if you don't have anyone to sit down with you and explain the basics. I heartedly recommend Skip Morris' "Fly Tying Made Clear and Simple." Usually any place that carries the tools you need will also carry this book. Good luck and have fun! -- Mike
  4. Nice ties! I most often fish leech patterns when wet-wading small creeks for smallies and spots. In those venues, I found that color did make a difference and I had my best luck on black, olive, and rust-colored leeches (not necessarily in that order). Less so on tan and even less so on the red/white combination. But, your mileage may vary on the waters you fish, good luck! -- Mike
  5. Add another confused member here. I thought it was a reasonable, non-offensive question that was eliciting some rational, thoughtful responses. Didn't see a problem from where I sit. -- Mike
  6. What is "the material to be applied"? -- Mike
  7. No, I've never used one of those, sorry. For me, I prefer two things in a stacker: decent size and some type of opening or clear window that allows me to see the hair tips. This is the one I use -- the tube doesn't extend all the way to the base so I can see the tips being stacked, and I can also see if the hair is oriented well in the tube. Because I can see what's going on, I can stack as few as 6 moose hairs for a small Western Adams, for example, or a decent stack of hair for a big Dahlberg. Anyway, any sufficiently large stacker will work just fine for deer hair work. Keep in mind, though, that when tying deer hair bass bugs, a stacker is often necessary but not as often as you might imagine. Generally speaking, if you exercise just a little care when you cut hair off the hide and handle it, it will not be necessary to stack it -- you're going to end up trimming/shaving the uneven tips off anyway, so why waste the time? The hair stacker is useful, though, when you want to even up the tips that won't be trimmed (like at the tail-end of a diver) or on those occasions every so often when you've inadvertently shifted the hair in your finger-tips too much. They're also useful, of course, for evening up bucktail hairs used for popper tails, for example. If you don't own a hair stacker and only plan to buy one, make sure it's a big one.
  8. Lastly, just to be clear, you're looking for a neck/cape, not a saddle, if you're looking for feathers like those I pictured above.
  9. Yes, a Whiting American rooster neck is the same as what is commonly referred to as a "bass/saltwater neck" and is equivalent to the feathers I pictured above. Keep in mind, though, that "Whiting American" necks are sold as either rooster or hen capes -- for feathers like those I pictured above, you want the Whiting American rooster cape, not the hen cape.
  10. There's no right or wrong answer and will depend on what you're tying and your personal preferences. For deer hair divers, for example, I personally prefer rooster neck hackle that is long, webby, and with wide, rounded tips; in other words, not rooster hackle for tying trout dries. Here's a couple of examples where I used either hackle sold as "strung rooster neck hackle" or rooster feathers off of a "bass/saltwater neck/cape": "Strung rooster neck" hackle is much less expensive if you want to get a bunch of different colors at once, but you'll get a much larger quantity and range of feather sizes if you get a full "bass/saltwater" neck. Another advantage of a full neck is that it's easier to pair up feathers with respect to curvature and size. -- Mike
  11. The general consensus for many years has been, no, you cannot for the reason Morfrost stated. Some of the folks who gave the warning often added the comment "Trust me on this . . . ." or something similar. That was always good enough for me. -- Mike
  12. Here's an article I wrote and pasted on another board that might be of some help, since its subject was how to go about trimming deer hair bugs: http://www.warmfly.com/smf/index.php?topic=3959.0 In short, razor blades are best used on densely packed hair, like the underside of a diver or popper, the head of a diver, etc.; scissors are generally superior when and where the hair is less densely packed. And yes, the scissor blades will dull over time. -- Mike
  13. Float tube? Make sure you click on "Trailer" (at the top) after you open the following link: http://www.tapamthemovie.com/trailer.html -- Mike
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