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csearsdirk

hackle on wooly bugges

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I've been tying a lot of wooly buggers lately and have a few questions.

 

1) All my hackle points forward towards the head. Does this matter? Should it be pointing back? If so, how can I make this happen? I have tried flipping the hackle strand around when I tie it to the shank, but this hasn't changed the direction the fibers point.

 

2) Does it matter the size of the hackle? I am using cheap Chinese strung saddle hackle and they vary a lot from strand to strand.

 

3) Do the experts prefer bead heads to cone heads? It seems most streamers have a cone, but most buggers I see have a gold bead.

 

4) I have been using ice chenile for the body. Do I need wire rib? Is the wire rib simply to hold everything in place, or does it attract fish? I'd rather not use rib because it is another piece I have to tie in at the shank which adds too many wraps and bulk.

 

Thanks, and I can post pics of my flies if that will help.

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I don't tye a lot of Wooly Buggers, but I will address your first question. The hackle fibers should flare to the rear. This can be accomplished several different ways: The hackle can be tyed in by its tip at the rear of the fly and wound forward. Or the hackle can be tyed in by its base at the front of the fly and wound to the rear. (I prefer the latter.) Either way, you must tye in the feather so that the concave side faces the tail. The result of this is that the fibers will curve naturally to the rear. Inexpensive strung hackle is fine for Buggers, but you should know that some feathers have a twist in their rachis (stem) that can cause the fibers to reverse their direction as you wind it.

 

As to the wire rib: It is there mostly to prevent the first fish you catch from breaking your palmered hackle, and destroying your fly. It is also necessary to secure the hackle if you mount it at the front and wind rearward (as I prefer.)

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I like to use small bead chain on my buggers,gets the fly down and the hook point rides up.

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Which way the hackle faces is not a set in stone rule. As rockworm said, it should face back towards the point, and most folks likely prefer it this way, but there can be advantages to have it face the other way too. As such, the fibers will create more resistance in the water, adding some additional action and can push more water, and create more vibrations, particularly if it's heavily palmered, which help the fish locate the fly. This is especially advantageous in slightly discolored water. Unfortunately, it creates more wind resistance too, so can be a little tricky when casting. Not usually a problem, unless you're tying very large buggers, although it could possibly cause your leader or tippet to twist which will eventually weaken it.

 

Hackle sizing should be proportioned to the hook. Again, it's not set in stone. I prefer to tie the hackle in by the tip, at the rear & wind forward, and usually add the wire rib just to make them more durable, but it also adds a slight amount of weight. Extras steps are not a problem if you get used to doing them. When you tie in wire for a rib, tie it along the entire length of the shank, so you maintain an even base, but leave a small space near the hook eye for your head finishing. This way your head won't be too bulky.

 

I tie a lot with cactus chenille bodies, I really like the stuff!

 

I tie them with cones, beads, bead chain, and barbell eyes. Also tie them with no weight added, and with lead wire added along the shank. All of these add various amounts of weight, so they sink at different rates. I tie them on hooks up to 2/0 in size, so also use the cheaper strung hackle.

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Read Old Hats excellent tutorial on wooly buggers here" Copper and Black, that pretty much says it all. There are other ways to tie wooly buggers, but this method is creates a very good bugger, and its plenty durable.

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