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Fly Tying


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About utyer

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/20/1944

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    Orlando, Florida since November 2012

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  1. In more than 55 years, I have used a lot of different vises. In all of them, I first looked for the hook holding capability of any vise. Secondly, I looked for the size range of hooks that any vise would give me. I first started looking for rotary features after about 10 or 12 years. I tried several different rotary vises, and in 1991 or thereabouts, I saw a "Nor-vise" at a trade show. Norm Norlander was the designer, and was there showing what his vise did. I bought the one he was using that day. I didn't want to wait for him to send one. At the end of the day picked it up, and have never looked for another vise. I sold or gave away all my other vises. 34 years later, it is still my only vise. It does every thing I need, and is still going strong. The Longevity of a good vise is also something that one should look for.
  2. Some sort of finish knot is almost always needed. You can learn to make a Whip finish from many sites on Utube. You can also finish off with a half hitch and a tiny drop of super glue. Just for clarification: I I have been using Gutermann Skala threads for well over 25 years. I used to get mine from Oshman, Brothers but now use Wawak. The cost for these spools is expensive, but when you breakdown the cost with the yards, you will find that a 100 yard spool is less than 25 cents. One other thread that is use for salt water patterns, or other LARGE flies is Gutermann Bulky Nylon, which I get at Joann Fabrics. As I said, I use only white thread and color heads with a marker when necessary.
  3. I have tied since 1966, all that time with 20/20 vision in just one eye. I lost the vision in the right eye in 58 or 90. After surgery to reattach the retina, I only had some peripheral vision in the right eye. I had to start wearing glasses somewhere in the early 90s. I do use magnifiers on anything smaller than a size 18. Saltwater patterns are no problem. At 79, I feel lucky to be able to tie any flies I need. I can still tie size 22 or 24 midges. I use a 20" LED overhead light bar. I have at least 5000 patterns stocked away so when the time comes, I can still keep on fishing without tying for a good while. Knock wood.
  4. I have had my Nor-Vise since 1991. Still does everything I need a vise for. I have had many other vises, but I won't trade my Nor-Vise for anything ever.
  5. I simply make mine from packing foam. Easy to make and free.
  6. A few flies. Its been a while since I have been tying at all. Right now my fingers work well enough to get up to 6 patterns done before they cramp up on me.
  7. That is one crazy pattern. Very well done.
  8. The chart is a good one, but the only thing I use it to look for different useful hook configurations. Then I find more cost effective similar hooks. Cant justify the expense.
  9. Spent about 40 years living and fishing in Utah, Idaho, & Wyoming. Lots of good fly fishing for trout, bass, and bluegill. I still go back at least once every year. I can help you with where, and when, as well as what flies to uses and fly tying. These questions should be done in PMs.
  10. Welcome, we have fished a LOT of the same places through the years. I have more than 12 years on you as far as tying goes. We have done a lot of the same things as well.
  11. My "tying station" was home made. I made it fit in a 90" closet.
  12. I too tie on a Nor-vise. I have had mine since 1991, and wont part with it. I have had many other vises, but once I got my Nor-vise, I never looked back. I have the fine point, standard, and Saltwater jaws. All the jaws rotate inline.
  13. Trying to squeeze the lever on a Regal vice was the first signal of the start of arthritis in my right hand. I got the reel back from a friend that I had given it to many years ago. I gave it to my niece for her new husband. Voltaren works ok on the arthritis, not sure about carpel tunnel.
  14. The best advise I can give you is to TRY BEFORE You BUY any Kayak. I tried 14 different kayaks before buying mine. Tipped the first one over on my first outing on a cold February day, and vowed not to have that happen again. So far, it hasn't happened again. The seat is a standard folding boat seat, with a swivel plate, so I can turn the seat to get to gear stored behind me. I raised the seat using about 3" higher with aluminum rails. Its quite easy on my legs and back. I gave away my inflatable pontoon before moving to Florida. There is no way I fishing with my feet in the water down here. I have seen way too many gators while fishing. I fish in several rivers, lakes, and the in-shore lagoons near Cape Canaveral, but I don't use mine in the surf. After reading the replies below you can see why. The NuCanoe is about $1600.00, and I just looked at the "new" seat platform. It places their seat at about the same level as the one I built. The weight is about 70 to 75 pounds, and I can load it on my Subaru Forester. But with your back issues, a trailer would be a better option. Again, find a local dealer, and TEST it before buying. The next best Kayak that I test drove was a Hobie but it was almost 3 times the price.
  15. There are Kayaks "called sit on top<" that work well for fishing in general. Personally, I use a "NewCanoe." They are wider, and much more stable. I never worry about standing when using mine. I built a higher seat platform for mine that has good back support. You can of course fall out, but you cannot tip over. You fall out, and the kayak doesn't roll, it just flips back to upright position as you fall out. IT tip mine one would have to hold on to the sides to pull the kayak over. Its very difficult to roll other wise. It has a squared off back end which allows you to install a small (2.5) motor, or any of a number of electric motors.
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