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Fly Tying


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About utyer

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/20/1944

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  • Location
    Orlando, Florida since November 2012

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  1. I did meet Mr Whitlock, in about 1980 when he did a demonstration in our shop. Small shop, and the group attending filled our tying area most of the day. Very personable man, and a great fly tier. His patterns were inventive, and very down to earth. Sad to hear about his passing.
  2. utyer


    57 years ago, I had 3 options. Mustad, Orvis, and Herters. Mustad was the only hook I could find in local shops. I have NO problem with switching brands and have tried LOTS of different hooks. When I worked in the industry, I didn't mind getting Tiemco, and other higher priced hooks at store discounts. Then about 15 years ago, I started testing a lot of "house brand" hooks and finnally settled on using Montana Fly Co. Hooks, never looked back still use them for all my fresh water hooks. For Salt water, I use Mustad hooks. MFC hooks are getting harder and harder to find, but as long as I can get them I will keep using them.
  3. Since I don't buy any dubbing, my favorite has to be my own mixes. They work for me and are much less expensive. I "shop" yard sales, flea markets, and can often get a half skein for a quarter. I can also get whole bags of assorted yarn for a buck.
  4. I haven't purchased dubbing in more than 30 years. With twisted wool or synthetic yarn, I start with a wire brush to shred the twisted yarn. Then I usually cut wool dubbing to about 1/2 inch. Synthetic dubbing a bit shorter, around 3/8 to 1/4. I cut off equal amounts of different colors, and blend 50 50 mixes in a coffee grinder. Then I can add to that mix with one or the other color until I get close to the shade I want. Twisting the dubbing fibers around the thread should be done in just one direction. I tie mostly smaller flies, so I start with a very thin amount. You could try a split loop of thread, and spin that up very tightly. I do so many different blends and am after a lot of different effects from very tight bodies to a wretched mess of fibers at times.
  5. Good advice above, if you have adjusted the bobbin to give less tension on the thread, look with a magnifying glass for even a tiny flaw. I would suggest a ceramic bobbin.
  6. Welcome, there are plenty of places to fish. Not sure if your new or not. Lets see a little more background and a few of your flies. There are a few of us here who also fish in Florida.
  7. I only know that I would not use either one. I would also consider changing to another brand.
  8. utyer

    Hanging it up

    Sorry to hear about your decline and its effect on your fishing. Being past 78 now, I have started to see some declines myself. My problem is arthritis, which is making it harder to tie rather than fish. Since its confined (at present,) to the fingers of my right hand, I can still cast. I am left handed, and still get the flies tied, but its painful if I am not careful. Won't be hanging anything up just yet.
  9. I am in Orlando, and by the time it got to us, it was a Tropical Storm. Winds of 50 to 60 MPH, and rain for 2 days. Lots of debris down in the yard, but no damage. The power is on, but my sister in law's house 8 miles away is without power, and up near downtown, there was more rain, and the chain of street runoff retention ponds flooded many areas. Their house is just barely above water, but it's receding now. I wouldn't buy or live in a prefab, or mobile home in Florida if you gave me one.
  10. utyer


    Again, Thank You Will.
  11. OOPS the images in my last post came up in reverse order, and I can't edit the other post at present.
  12. This is a Mustad 79666 Keel Hook as I would load it in my Nor-vise. Second image is the hook as it would ride in the water IF you weighted the shank. The third image is a quick and dirty tie of a shank weighted pattern which would ride the way shown. This same hook could be used in a Blond type pattern without a weighted shank, with the lighter color on the shank, and then a wrap up the shank to the front where the darker hair would be tied in. I will try and post one that way later.
  13. utyer

    C&F vise

    It took me over 10 years to move up from my Thompson Model A, and then it was to the Thompson Pro, witch ad a pedestal base, and interchangeable jaws. I then moved up through about 3 other vises each more expensive than the last. When I got my Nor-vise, I didn't think I would want anything else, and got ride of a few of my earlier models. Both the Thompson vises are still in the family, and still work just fine. The most expensive vise I ever had was a Dyna-King Sidewinder,, witch I picked up in a trade. In July, I returned the Sidewinder to the Original owners daughter so she can learn to tie.
  14. OK I will try again. First thing you need is stainless hooks bronze hooks will corrode overnight in salt water. The Mustad 34007 in size 1 and 1/0 would be a good way to start. Then you will want to tie some Clouser Minnows, and some Schimminows. Materials for the Clouser as simply a White Bucktail, bead chain or other dumbbell eyes crystal flash. The Schimminos are just white marabou, and Cactus Chenille. I would suggest fishing the surf not the lagoons in the east coast. (If that's where you will be headed.)
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