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Fly Tying

utyer

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About utyer

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/20/1944

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  • Favorite Species
    Salmonids
  • Security
    2007

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  • Location
    Orlando, Florida since November 2012

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  1. I have never owned a Universal vise, but I did buy a Leonard back in 71 or 2. Somewhere a long time ago, I lost the stem and clamp. The threads on the back of the jaws just happened to fit a standard camera tripod mount. I can now use it again, and it makes a nice compact travel vise.
  2. A few of you may have misread my first post about the threads I use, and the savings that I get. I save about 75 to 85% by purchasing in bulk, and certainly a LOT more than .20 cents a spool. My average cost per 100 yards is $0.20 including the shipping. Veevus cost 3.25, UCT 2.25, and Danville 1.25 (half a 200 yard spool,) I save $3.05 over Veevus, $2.05 over UTC, and 1.05 over Danville. I consider these brands to be among the best in traditional threads. I have never tried any of the newer Nano Silk or GSP thread that cost about twice as much. I don't use the Skala and Serger threads simply because they are less expensive. The Skala threads have worked well for me for over 10 years. They are multifilament polyester, and will lay flat and also, can be split. The finer sizes like the 360 are too thin for everything but midges, but they tie them fine, and add almost no bulk. Since I load any and all thread onto my Auto-bobbin spools, and can usually load much more than 100 yards on a spool, I save time as well. All these threads I use works for me. so I will continue to use them. I did not in my first post suggest that any one else use them; in fact I did point out that they only come in very large spools which have to be re-spooled in order for use. Since I do that with all threads, getting these bulk spools works for ME, they may not be right for others. While we are talking about savings, here is an even better price on a Nit Picker. I find these work much better than a loop of mono for pulling legs through foam bugs.
  3. McFly, I wouldn't still be using them if they didn't perform well. Since I have to re-spool ALL my thread to fit on my Nor-vise Auto-bobbin, I save time by loading these bulk spools. I can get much more than 100 yards on each spool. I only buy white, and use markers as needed to color the eyes if necessary.. My first bulk spool was some Nymo 3/0 which I have used for over 30 years, and still have more than half of it left. I use that mostly to patch my pool screens when they get holes from the squirrels.
  4. One of the biggest ways we can save money is in Thread. The big cost in thread is the re-spooling onto 100 yard spools. Most thread is made in much bigger lots. I simply cut out the middle man and save money. I have not bought "fly tying" thread in over 12 years. I started using Gutermann Skala and Gutermann Bulky Nylon threads. I recently found a new source, and have just picked up a few more sizes. My cost per 100 yard spool is less than .20, and that includes shipping. The threads I use do have a couple of drawbacks: The Skala only comes on large spools from 5000 to 20,000 meters (that 5468, to 21872 yards.) I re-spool all my thread to fit on my Nor-vise Auto Bobbin spools so there is no added work for me in doing this. I now get these from Wawak.com and their shipping is $5.95 for any size order. I usually buy 2 or 4 spools at a time. I have a list of about 6 other threads I want to try.
  5. With apologies to "Paul Bunyan," my version of his Bunyan Bug. Still working on one made the right way. Thread: Nymo 3/0. Hook: MFC 7027 3xl. Wings: buck-tail. Body 2 strips of craft foam, one under & one on top spiral wrapped with thread.
  6. The foam is wrapped around the hook tied down, and then ribbed with the floss.
  7. Delta wing Stonefly pattern on a MFC 7008 hook Thread: Gutermann Skala 240, Craft foam body black floss rib. Elk hair wing tied as a Bullitt head and split. White bucktail sighter, Eggs are trimmed black deer hair.
  8. Reminds me of upstate NY. Spend 2 weeks every summer camping and fishing on Indian Lake. Each summer we would hike through the woods along a stream. That's where I saw my first brook trout. Then we move to Utah, where the only thing any one fished for was trout.
  9. Now for a favorite still water leach I have had plenty of success with. Thread NYMO 3/0, Tail and body, is a synthetic brushed out yarn long ago discontinued, can't even remember the name of it. I have 2 colors and they will outlast me. Brush it out after tying and it looks like hell. but after a little soak it looks much better.
  10. Mill Creek That stone fly is a great looking fly. I will have to tie a few before I go to Idaho next spring. Thanks for the fly offer, but I am still in tying mode. I too give more flies away than I use any more. I have given up fishing the inshore lagoons around the Cape, and now fish either the surf, or the St John River for the winter Shad run. January and February are the only months that I get to wade in a river or stream around here,
  11. Another alternative material. This one came imported from Chili. First the flies I used the material on. The material. For those of you who don't do the grocery shopping, this is the bag my Oranges came in.
  12. I think the problem is not understanding the jaw adjustment properly. All Dyna-King vises have a detent in the lever that pops into place as the lever is rotated up to close on the hook. You need to learn you to preset your collar to leave just a little gap. When you have it right the jaws hold tight as the detent pops in. I got a Dyna-King Sidewinder about 25 years ago, and the forcing cone had been damages by the previous owner. He was trying to tighten the forcing cone before closing the lever. Dyna-King sent me a new cone at no charge, and the vise has worked fine ever since. I traded a Regal for it.
  13. I have been doing a lot of tying lately, but not much posting of these flies. I don't hunt, and fishing will wait until it cools off some. There is always something getting in my way., like lawn mowing, or should I say weed mowing.
  14. MillCreek, you have already gotten the ONLY answer you need from the Sea Run Cuts. I agree with niveker, that your patterns do have a lot of movement. What others say here matters very little. What the fish say is the important thing.
  15. utyer

    hook size

    The Mustad hook S70-3399 has these specifications: Sproat bend, down eye, 2X strong wire, micro barb, bronzed; Uses: nymph. Equivalent to Mustad Classic 3399 hook. It is a heavy hook 2X strong indicates a hook that used a wire 2 times heavier than a standard hook. If your tying foam bugs, then this hook can work since the foam will float it. The standard Mustad dry fly hook is the R50-94840 with these specifications: Round bend, down eye, micro barb, bronzed; Uses: Classic dry fly. Equivalent to Mustad Classic 94840 hook. Notice the lack of information about wire size. That means this is a standard wire hook. The Mustad R30-94833 is a dry fly hook with these specifications. Round bend, down eye, 2X fine wire, micro barb, bronzed; Uses: light dry fly. Equivalent to Mustad Classic 94833 hook. The 2X fine wire means this hook uses a wire that is 2 times lighter than standard. The best way to find equivalent hooks from other brands it to compare the specifications of the hooks. Most good shops that sell hooks will give a good set of specification for each hook. The closest hook to your Mustad S70-3399 from Daiichi would be either the 1530 or 1560.. The 1530 is the 2XHeavy, and has a slightly shorter shank length. The 1560 is their standard nymph hook and is a 1XLong. and 1XHeavy. This Tiemco Hook catalogTMCFlyHooksCatalog_EN.pdf will show you most of their hook with a list of features and uses. When you look at comparison chart, there are many hooks including the S70-3399 that won't be found on a lot of charts.
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