Meeshka 0 Report post Posted December 20, 2016 My technique is very similar to hatchet jack, slowly mixing on tinfoil. I don't normally add heat, but if I do I have used a hair blow dryer on the lowest setting. I like his straw approach, I think you will have more control over the material Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave G. 0 Report post Posted December 21, 2016 Have you tried a hair dryer while you continuously rotate the fly with fresh new epoxy on it ( before it begins to kick) ? In rod building we use open flame on a rotating blank and it pops any bubbles that may have formed but obviously an open flame would be problematic on a fly. Just a thought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bimini15 0 Report post Posted December 21, 2016 I do not know... This maybe sacrilegious, but I think the bubbles add a certain je ne sais quois. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flat Rock native 0 Report post Posted December 21, 2016 I do not know... This maybe sacrilegious, but I think the bubbles add a certain je ne sais quois. I think so too, sure did nothing to hurt any of the 3 samples in OP... FYI, All the French I know I learned in Sonic drive-in Ads and Stuart Woods' fictions Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave G. 0 Report post Posted December 22, 2016 The bubbles may be nice, they may offer aesthetic appeal even, but the OP asked how to get rid of them, not embrace them. A few ways have been offered but possibly the easiest is to just spend $6 on a new batch of epoxy. Save the bubbly stuff for where it won't show, like under a real seat for instance ( I'm still thinking rod building lol). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl Z 0 Report post Posted January 2, 2017 Have you tried gently heating the epoxy (is it the resin or the hardener that has the bubbles, I glossed over that in the original post)? I start with hot tap water and drop the bottle in. If that doesn't help, I bring water up to boiling and take it off and then drop the epoxy bottle in. Some sloooow rolling of the bottle while the epoxy is warm may help. You are trying to reduce the viscosity of the material so the bubbles rise to the surface. The laying out the epoxy on aluminum foil and using a slight heat source below it will also help (as long as the heat source is not hot enough to form bubbles). spreading the epoxy out reduces the distance a bubble has to rise before it pops. Thinning the epoxy also helps, but it completely changes the character of the epoxy when it goes on. Good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stippled Popper 0 Report post Posted January 3, 2017 With regard to the comments about warming epoxy to remove bubbles, it is also going increase the speed of curing thus reducing the working time you have for your batch of epoxy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
