morfrost

You don't necessarily need a tool for the razor blades. Be careful, the blades are sharp. Using some care you can easily trim deer hair with just the bare blade. The 2 sided blades have 2 sharp faces and the "sides" of the bade are flat and not sharpened. By holding the 2 flat dull sides between your thumb and middle fingers and pressing your 2 fingers toward each other will cause the blade to curve into an arc. Vary the arc by moving fingers in or out until you have the curve you are happy with and go to it. Push the blade into the deer hair and it will be clipped. As the blade dulls it will be useful to wiggle it side to side a little to assist in the cutting action. When the cutting side gets too dull to use ( drags a lot) flip the blade over and use the other sharp edge. Tight lines

Possibly, but it's risky. The reason for this is that mono will stretch under tension. If you hava a large fish on and it takes you into the backing, when you wind the line and backing back in to land the fish, the stretched mono will want to release the pressure because it went on stretched, and this could warp the sideplates of your spool and jam the reel up. This could wreck the reel. That's why Dacron is typically used for backing; very little to no stretch.

I make a shipping box out of old photo matt scraps and foam core board. The Matt scraps are cut to the size I want to form the top and bottom and foam core strips make up the sides. These strips are about 1/4" square, cut to suit and are glued to the matt bottom with Krazy Glue. The top ( lid) is secured to the box with a hinge made out of Duct Tape. I also cut small squares out of foam core board and glue them to the bottom matt board to stick the flies into for shipment. All this gets slipped into a padded mailer envelope for mailing. You can easily make a 2 compartment box with 3 pieces of matt board and 2 sets of foam core strips sandwiched between the matt boards to send even more flies out. I asked a local framing shop to save me their scraps and I got a nice sized box full at no cost, since they only throw out their waste. Foam core board is cheap too, availble at Craft and Dollae stores. Plenty strong for the job at hand and don't weigh much, so this keeps the postage charges down.

He's a Mad Scientist, and as such, is not governed by the same rules as most of the rest of us. I'm about 6 weeks in on my order, but I'll get it; maybe even soon. Like one of the other posters said, you buy from the Dungeon for different reasons than from other suppliers, but you probably didn't know it at the time. Have some patience. It'll be rewarded.

Good advice on the leaders by other posters. I was going to say much the same thing. I do like your flies. Besides being "flashy and gaudy" as you describe them, they also will provide some bulk in the water to put out a positive lateral line response to a predator species. They also look like they contain a goodly amount of synthetic material to make them shed water and easier to cast. This coupled with materials that provide lots of movement in the water signals "I'M ALIVE AND EASY PICKIN'S FOR LUNCH" to the musky or pike you are after. Good job. Post your recipes and individual photos in the database please so we can all benefit from your intuitive good sense.

I too have allergies to some feathers and hair. In the case of hackles, it's the fine marabou like fibres at the lowest part of hackle stem, and also the underfur on deer hair. Most of my reactions occur when I work with deer hair, spinning hair and clipping it to make bombers. In my case, this seems to flair up more in the winter, probably when indoor humidity is lowest, static electricity is the greatest and you don't normally bring in fresh air to ventilate the house. Usually my eyes get affected, but sometimes my sinuses do as well. I can't tell if it is because the offending material has come in contact with my eyes, or whether the eye reactions are stimulated by irritations in the sinuses. When I was a kid I used to get wicked hay fever attacks all through the summer and life really sucked then. I was tested and had a score of allergies and took desensitizing shots monthly for many years. I eventually stopped them as an adult 40+ years ago and now have only a few minor episodes of allergic reaction. If you are a young person, I would suggest seeing your doctor and getting tested, if you have persistant bad allergic reactions regularly. I now try to strip my feathers at arms length over a garbage container and I comb deer hair over the can with a fine pet comb to minimize having this material near my nose and sinuses. Most of the time this works quite well. It's practically impossible to stop yourself from touching your face, because most of the time these are involuntary or subconsious movements, so you always have tha risk of transferring stuff from your hands to your face near your nose and eyes. Because of this I usually make up a mess of bombers but don't clip the hair. I take them into my workbench area of my basement and clip them over a garbage can, while wearing a dust mask. Then when I'm finished I bring the clipped bodies back to my tying area to be completed. That way, any airborne allergens released from the clipping stay in another part of the house. I've tried wearing a dust mask with some success as mentioned above. I buy one with an air valve built into the centre of the paper cone on the mask as opposed to just the cheaper all paper masks. It costs more but it does permit greater comfort and less heat buildup under the mask. Sometimes it becomes just too warm to be really comfortable, especially in the summer. At the first sign of feeling my eyes starting to get itchy. I go rinse tmy eyes and also my sinus cavities in lukewarm water, then put on the mask, and this usually prevents further complications. This summer I think I'll try tying some in a screened gazebo on my back deck to see shgow this works out. I also have get hay fever type reactions in late summer, from pollens from certain wild grasses. To combat this, and very occassionally during the winter as well, I use an antihistamine such as Reactin. This calms down those rhinitus allergic reactions like itchy eyes and swollen sinuses. Unfortunately by then I've already had the reaction. I don't like just ingesting chemicals and I won't always get an allergic reaction, so when I do take this stuff it's a reactive instead of a preemptive response. I guess, hence the name Reactin. I hope this may give you some ideas on how to deal with your situation. If you can, identify specifically what seems to stimulate your allergic responses ( feather fluff, etc) and then adapt your methods to minimize the responses when working with the offending materials. Good luck!

I find it easiest to tie off the dry fly hackle by holding the fly hackle stem (under tension) vertically over the top of fly at the top at the last hackle wrap. Then wrap the tying thread between the vertical hackle stem and the main clump of the wrapped hackle fibres (around the hook shank). Do this twice before letting go of the hackle. I'm left handed. When I wrap the hackle I hold it in my left hand. When I wrap the thread to tie off as described above, the bobbin is in the right hand. Righties will do this just the opposite. Right hand hackle, left hand bobbin tie off. After the two wraps, let go of the hackle, or release the hackle plier if you use one. The stem iof the hackle should be tied off at the top of the hook shank. Any hackle fibres which might get trapped and stick out akwardly at the top of the fly can be trimmed off with the hackle stem without affecting the look of the wrapped dry fly hackle. You will have the fibres undisturbed on the underside of the hook, where they are supporting the fly on the water. If you miss one or two fibres on top, no big whoop. If you find you are trapping more hackle fibres awkwardly than you like beneath the final 2 thread wraps, try tipping the hackle stem slightly away from the vertical plane ( to the right for righties ) as you wrap the thread to tie off the hackle.

If you want to get more out of your rotary vise, get a copy of Al Beatty's Rotary Vise book. It's full of very good information, and in no time at all, you will hav expanded your tying versatilitiy, by following along with the sample flies and techniques Al outlines in this fine book.

I can't tell what size the saltwater hook is, but if it were on a small sized hook, tie 2 of the same and either clip off the bend or epoxy a bead on the hook points and install on a pair of silver earring findings from a craft store like Michaels , and you'd have a neat Valentine set of earrings for that "sweetheart" mentioned above.

I type out my toe tag info on a word processor, pick a relatively small font and print out a sample. I then adjust as required, and when I'm happy I copy the toe tag on the sheet with cut and paste however many times needed and print. By flipping my test sheet 180 degrees I can usually print all the toe tags on the original sheet of paper. Then I cut out with scissors and impale the toe tag on the barb of the hook.

If there's a group of fly tyers in your area that meet regularly to tie flies, I suggest you join them, if you are able to. Most tyers are more than willing to share their knowledge, and this is a great way to learn to tie flies, and to learn about fishing in general . At some time during these sessions, cartching fish comes up. You will get new ideas about where to go for fish, and how to deal with some of the situations you mayl encounter. Welcome aboard.

I tie a lot of Atlantic Salmon flies that require giving the head a few coats of lacquer. I purchased a foam swimming pool noodle , the type kids use for playing in the swimming pool, and cut discs out of it. They look like foam hockey pucks. When I finish a fly I end with a whip finish and stick it into the edge of the puck, facing out. I usually put a dozen on each puck. When I've finished my tying session I pick up a puck with the 12 flies in it, stick a thick bodkin into the centre and holding it in one hand I apply head cement lacquer with the other. I only have to open and close the lacquer bottle once. There's lots of space to get at all sides of the fly, and in the case of Atlantic Salmon patterns, the flies stay oin the puck until they've had their 2 or 3 coats of lacquer for a nice shiny finish. The foam material holds up well to being stuck with fish hooks. I've had these in use for at least 5 years, and they are still going strong. These noodles are about 5 ft long and cost a couple of dollars. I bought a solid one. Some have holes in the centre. Those you could insert a dowel into the hole for a handle when you do the head cement

I just checked out flytire's recommendation and it's excellent. Just one further tip that isn't obvious when looking at the pictures. When tying in your hackle leave a small amount of bare quill ( hackle stem) exposed at the tie in point . When binding the hackle up the post to where you start wrapping down, your initial wrap will be at the point where you run out of bare stem and then wind down, so that no hackle fibres are trapped on the way down. This bare space on the hackle stem should be about 1/8" or so ( 3 mm if you tie in metric) . I don't usually bind the stem to the post as in the photo example but just wrap the bare stem up the post in an open spiral wrap until I come to the fibres then wrap down, trapping the bare stem beneath the hackle on the way down, then tie off the hackle.

I tie with a Danvise, and I tie commercially. I originally purchased it for use in tying Classic Salmon patterns. I wanted a vise to rotate so I could tie wings, JC, cheeks, etc on and be able to inspect them, and tie smooth floss bodies and make even spacing of ribbing easier to do. I don't tie a lot of classic patterns so I didn't want to spend a lot on the vise. I selected a Danvise based on cost. In looking at the vise it seemed the working arera was all scrunched up and would be restricted. I also noted that an arm extension was available from the supplier I got it from ( J Stockard). I bought it all for less than $ 100.00 I also tweaked it as desribed below. FIX # 1 Cost $ 0.50 In using the vise I noted that I could never seem to get the rotating tension to my liking. I could lock it down tight, and make it fixed, but then I would have to loosen it up had to rotate it to inspect my work. I could make it loose, but I didn't like the feel of that. I could do some intermediate setting, which seemed to be OK, but it seemed to work its way looser after tying a few flies. I tie left handed. The direction of my thread rotation may contributr to this. Righties may not have this problem. I disassembled the barrel where everything rotates and discovered a threaded delrin stud from the barrel handle assembly which threaded into a steel nut in the ball bearing side where the jaw was mounted. This was an 8 mm metric nut. A trip down to the industrial fastener store got me an 8 mm nut with a nylon insert, An anti vibration type nut. I installed this and have no more issues. I adjust the assembly to the degree of tightness I want and it stays that way till I change it again. FIX #2 Cost $ 1.50 or so I didn't like the location of the material spring clip. With the arm extension it was too far away, and there was no convenient place to put it on the jaws or the arm extension. I had a EUREKA momennt one night when I finished a fly and stuck it into the cork stopper from a bottle of scotch whisky. I use these as little stands when I finish a classic pattern to lacquer the heads. Taking a wine cork ( new or used ) I cut the cork on an angle and glued it on to the end of the arm extension piece with some Goop. I filed a slight groove near the end of the cork and slipped a spiral spring material clip over the end of the cork. Now the material clip was close to the vise jaw but still out of the way. I had a spring clip from a previous vise, but if I had to buy one, it might cost a $1.50 or so. I got the cork as a bonus from drinking the wine, so it was a freebee. FIX #3 no cost I had to drill out the ring for my garbage bag holder so it would fit on the shaft of my vise and I mounted a hackle guage on the shaft too. I had a buddy braze a flat washer on the short end of the garbage bag holder fvrame. This was a freebee too. With the extension arm the jaw vise was further from the vise shaft . The garbager bag holder is rectangular and now sits under the vise jaw. FIX #4- My Bad ! I tie and mount in shadow box frames Classic Salmon and larger sized Hairwings which I sell at the local Farmers Market along with the fishing flies I make. This is a value added product which increases the overall margins on my operation. Because I started tying Classic Patterns on this vise I was mounting larger size flies ( 2/0-3/0) in the vise. I was inserting the hook near the end of the vise jaw. As I used the vise more and more, I began to use a variety of hook sizes. After a while I noticed that it became more difficult to hold these smaller hooks properly, and eventually I could see that the ends of the vise jaws had deformed. I replaced the jaws, anbnd am now more careful. I insert larger hooks deeper into the jaw where the material is thicker and the contact area with the hook is greater. THis reduces the stresses on the jaw and I reserve the tip area for the smaller hooks. I have had no further problem. I note that some other posts on trhis thread and other threads in this section indicate some jaw/temper issues. I think this might be the reason for some of these problems. FINALLY ( at last) I can appreciate someone who is looking for to incorporate a rotary vise into their tying on a budget. There are several in the price range you are looking for. I am not saying a Danvise is the vise for you, but I can honestly say that I am very happy with mine. I have described my experiences with my vise, and the steps I have taken to make this vise better for me to use. You may have to tweak whatever vise you choose to make it morte suitable. Even the expensive rotaries have their quirks. I might suggest you get Al Beatty's Rotary Vise book which has a comprehensive review of most of the rotary vises available (at the time it was printed) as well as some good tips and examples of how to use the rotary most effectively. I am enclosing a photo of my modified vise. Tight lines. Don ( morfrost)

I currently use a Danvise and I'm on my second set of jaws. I tie a lot of Atlantic Salmon flies and also quite a few trout flies. Initially, I think what happened is that when tying salmon flies I was placing the hooks too near the tip of the jaw and this placed too much stress at the point of contact with the hook bend, pushing the jaw steel beyond its elastic limit and slightly deforming the tips. Permanently deforming metal changes its molecular structure and weakens the metal. This effect is cumulative and eventually the jaw tip deformation was clearly visible. With the cam action of the jaw closer mechanism and the thread adjustment in setting the jaw opening width I could locate Salmon hooks near the tip, and have them solidly gripped, but this was done at the expense of using smaller hooks. Now I bury the hook bend of Salmon flies further back into the jaw ( where the tapered jaws are thicker ) and leave the tips of the jaws for the smaller hooks, and so far, after about a year, everything seems to be fine, and the jaws look like new. Clearly,in hindsight, hook jaws are tapered to a reltively small point, and the jaw material gets thicker as we move away from the point. Thicker material and larger surface contact area with larger hook sizes allows unit stresses in the jaws to be kept at more moderate level and will minimize or eliminate material failures such as chipped jaws and deformed tips. I think sometimes we don't pay enough attention to the smaller details, and end up blaming the manufacturers for equipment that doesn't stand up to our misuse, intentional or otherwise. Just ask my snowblower!

You can try "www.togenenterprises.com". They have good discount packages on 1000 hook lots (mix & match by size and type in 100 hook packs) or better discount in 1000 hook packs, all of same type and size. Also have other materials, etc. at pretty good prices. I've just bought 3000 hooks from them and service seems pretty good. Hooks went out next day and are currently in transit. Prices work out to less than $ 7.00/100 in the 100 hook packs, taxes, S&H included. I scanned this bulletin board and decided based on some recommendations from members on this site. These are chemically sharpened hooks: I assume they are similar to other house brands available from sources previously mentioned. Tight Lines Don ( morfrost)

I made a stacker from a 3"piece of 7/8" refrigeration copper tubing line and a 7/8" pipe cap for the same line. The piece of tubing had to be heated to take the temper out of it and then one end was flared with a flaring tool to give it a slight trumpet bell shape. On the other end, two half circles were cut out on the endwalls opposite each other. The cap goes on over the end with the half circle cutouts ( obviously) and the hair is inserted, tips first into the bell end. Rap the stacker a few times on a hard surface, take off the cap and pull out the hair by the stacked tips . My cost $0.00. The pipe was scrap from a supermarket construction renovation job and the cap I got from a refrigeration mechanic on the same job. If I had to buy it, it might be 50 cents. I also made one from a piece of 1/2" copper water line and a cap, but I mainly use the bigger diameter stacker.

See the UTube video as shown above. This is for the "Canuel", a Gaspe ( Quebec ) style Bomber with split wings. Also a good instructional video in tying bombers with split and single wings, as the split wing is a variation on the single wing. Hope this helps. I think you can tie any Bomber with a split wing. I wouldn't hesitate to carry a few split wings in your fly box of your favourite Bomber patterns. Sometimes something a little different is just the right thing. Tight lines, Don ( morfrost)

A few years ago my daughter and son in law went to Ireland as part of my daughter's work duties. That Christmasn they gave me some antique Irish flies, both wet and dry. I mounted them in a round wooden frame with a shallow glass dome that once contained a dried flower arrangement. I picked this up at a yard sale. After cleaning out the dried flowers I made a curved wooden shelf about 1/2" thick which roughly followed the contour of the shallow glass dome. I would ultimately attach this to the back of the domed frame. I drilled small holes in the curved shelf large enough to accept a short piece of clear elastic ( rubbery) bracelet stringing cord which I got at the dollar store. I think it was 1 mm thick. These are available in .5mm 1mm and 1.5mm thicknesses. I stuck the point of the hook into one end of the short piece of this material and inserted the other into the hole I made in my small curved shelf. When doing the final assembly I mounted the shelf on the back of the frame first. Because the cord is elastic, it stretches to clamp onto the hook point and hold it in place. A drop of Krazy Glue cements it in place. I also think I put a drop into the wooden shelf at the time of assembly. Since the fly has virtually no weight and the piece of cord is short and relatively stubby it is relatively stiff. There is no observable deflection in the cord material , and it acts like as it were a rigid material, suspending the fly above the shelf on a clear, relatively transparent column. You view the flies head on. Because the glass is curved and the flies have horizontal separation in their mounting, you can see details from above, below and the sides. I've attached a photo. I'm sure this could be adapted to have this cord mounted directly to a vertical surface such as the back of the frame, although this would not permit viewing much more than the side view or top view, depending on how you chose to arrange the mounting. Perhaps, instead of using a wooden shelf, a narrow shelf made out if a clear plastic ( Plexiglas) would be suitable.

Depending on your shadow box and how deep the recess is , you can make a mounting substrate out of foamcore board, available at craft shops. Cut this so that it just fits the inside dimensions of your shadow box. I like to mount Hairwing Atlantic Salmon Flies and Classic featherwing flies using bugle beads and 12# monofilament fishing line. I use a bugle bead at the head and one at the rear of the hook near the bend. On a Classic pattern this is where the butt or body and the tail meet. These are thin glass culinders of various lengths and finishes, and are mainly used in craft jewellery. I also like to use Oval matts; sometimes 2 matts in contrasting colours , with only about 1/4-3/8" showing on the smaller matt. I place the fly on the mounting substrate, place the matt(s) on the substrate as well and mark the locations of the bugle beads with a fine pencil mark at each spot, centering the fly in the oval where it will be ulltimately displayed. Then using an awl or coarse sewing needle I make holes through the foamcore substrate. I push the needle in from the viewing (finished) side through to the back of the substrate, so the paper face is pushed "out" on the non viewed side, and pushed "in" on the finished side. At this point , if you wish, you can make a background for your mounting substrate. This could be a piece of cardstock with the fly pattern name on it written in a decorative script font, or some handmade textured paper, or anything else which you feel might add interest to the presentation. Just make sure to locate your text in the appropriate place in your viewing window, when you trim your background to size, if you choose to use text in your display. You can add text using Microsoft Word or some other WP program. Your inkjet printer should be able to print cardstock, availablre at craft stores, business supply stores or even dollar stores. The background is trimmed to the size of the mounting substrate and then glued to the substrate with spray adhesive. Because you've already marked the holes for your bugle beads on the substrate, you just poke a small hole in your background through the holes previosly made. and everything should be all lined up. Install the bugle beads and mount the fly. A bugle bead is a thinl glass cyclinder having a hole through the centre. Push one bead into each of the holes you made in the substrate. I like to do this from the finished front to the back. You may have to play with thesize of the holes with your needle or awl until the beads are properly mounted and you can see the glass cylinder pushed through to the back of the substrate. The thickness of the foam core of the foamcore board will hold the bead in place. Take a piece of 12# mono, 8" long and push one end through the bead from back to front. When it is through to the front, pull it out a couple of inches and stick it back into the bugle bead, forming a loop on the front , or finished side. Grab both ends of the mono in one hand at the back, and holding the fly in your other hand, place the head of the fly on or very near the end of the bugle bead, and tighten the loop until the loop, fly and bugle bead are snugged together. Take the tag ends of the loop material and while maintaining tension , place the mono against the back or the substrate. Now take a 2-3" piece of masking tape and place it over the loop material, taping it tp the back of the substrate. Run the tape along the mono so it's taped down 2-3" along the substrate. Trim off the leftover mono. Now do the same at the rear of the fly. You may find it easier to feed one end of the mono loop material from the back though to the finished side ; loop the mono over the body and back into the hole in the bugle bead und grab the tag end at the back of the substrate. You may also find this operation easier if you hold and slide the body of the fly away from the bugle bead to give you clear access to the hole in which you thread the mono. Adjust trhe attitude of the fly with respect to the substrate to your liking and then snug it all together with the loop and tape down the second loop at the back as before. When I'm happy with everything I usually squirt a small drop of Krazy Glue into the back of the bugle beads. Surface tension will wick the glue up into the bead, fastening the loop mono and bead together. I usually use a #4 bugle bead , which I get at craft stores, in a clear or silver finish. When mounted, the fly "floats" in the shadow box above the surface of the substrate. Because the beads are small in diameter ( approximately 2 mm or so) they are largely hidden by the body of the fly, creating the illusion of floating in the space. I usually make 4 small spacers from the foamcore board which I glue to the back of my picture matt . THis pushes the matt tight against the glass face of the shadowbox. I mount them where the matt and the sides of the shadow box frame meet. These are sized to be as deep as the space from the back of the matt(s) to the face of the mounting substrate. By keeping these small, they won't be seen in the final display. This is kind of a long description, but I hope it will be of some use to you.

You can also cruise cardshops for giftwrapping material on sale. I once picked up several spools of braided mylar cord in silver, gold, red and green metallic colours. I recall there was about 15 yards per spool and they had a polypropylene core which was slightly krinkly really sparkly and made exellent posts for parachute flies. I've used up the silver and gold, but still have some of the red and green. I usually swoop in after Christmas. Sometimes you get lucky. I've also found some dusters that have synthetic hair in interesting colours at the supermarket or dollar store. Also I found one at a supermatket that had Black ostrich herl. It made good butts on some Salmon fly patterns that called for this type of butt. Maybe not suitable for competitions, but the fish aren't anywhere near as fussy as Norwegian judges.

While reading this interesting discussion, something occurred to me. The setting of the epoxy is the result of an exothermic reaction of the chemicals in the resin and hardener. Heat is produced and this heat raises the temperature of the resin/ hardener mix, which accelerates the chemical reaction, producing more heat, etc. in what can be described as an autoacceleration reaction. In fact if using a container with a small surface area relative to the depth of the eopxy in the container, the container can get quite warm to hot. Has anyone tried setting the container on some crushed ice after mixing the resin and hardener to keep the mix cool thereby extending the workable time of the epoxy? This ice could be contained in something like a jar lid from a large peanut butter jar and your mixed epoxy container set into or on top of the ice. I know from having built cedar strip canoes and kayaks that epoxy takes a long long time to harden when the ambient temp is below 50 F. There's no reason to believe a similar condition couldn't be created in a " microclimate" environment created around the epoxy mix container to achieve the same result. Once applied to the head of the fly the ambient " global" environment would quickly heat up the epoxy mix allowing hardening to proceed as normal. Just another something for you to play around with.

I wouldn't go hacking up a fur coat just for some fly tying material. You have enough material for about a century's worth of fly tying or more, unless you gring out 50,000+ flies per year. You'll probably end up giving away a lot, or throwing away a bunch. Once you start cutting it up it pretty much loses its value as a garment, and having a bunch of fur pieces lying around in a plastic bag gets to be a pain after a while. I suggest you ; A) Try & sell it. Then use money to buy material. Put an ad in want ads. Someone may buy it and take it to a furrier to have it modernized or remodeled. Maybe the furrier might want to buy it as well, for remodel and resale. Find someone who recycles these coats into other items such as custom made teddy bears. This could yield some $ or some fur scraps from their operation or both. P.S. There's a lady in my community who does these bears in a variety of different furs. She 's intersted in dying some of the furs for her particular projects. I've been passing on info about dying from fly tying websites I run across. She gives me scraps which are not useful to her, but are to me.

Go to this link on Ronn Lucas' website; see below. I believe that in the 1st year's publication of the SALMON FLYER ( I forget which Season's Issue) there is an article on making this type of a pin. You need to get the pin backs from a jewellery/ craft supplier. Most of what is readily available is a golden hook soldered to a safety pin type closure system. Kind of a pain to tie on. I like the pin back concept, but I've never seen any available for sale. This article indicated the individual made their own. Seems a level above what's currently available if you can source the parts and make them yourself. I once tried searching for the supplier listed in the article, but that business closed or was absorbed by another one. Good luck. Good luck on this http://www.ronnlucassr.com/The%20Salmon%20...LYER/index.html

Try this link. Tight lines! http://members.shaw.ca/clives/pikeflyfish.html