dawgvet

So i acquired an old Thompson pedestal vise a while back and have recently started tying on it some recently. I find that I kinda like the simplicity and the ease of access to the back of the fly, especially on dry flies. Don't get me wrong, it will never replace my beloved Renzetti, but I do find it a nice change of pace. I was wondering if anyone else out there ties on antique or 'classic' vises that are older? I'm getting a little nervous as I've started eyeballing some older Herter's vises on the 'bay!😁

Yes, thanks to all involved for getting the site back up! With all the COVID-19 stud going on, we really need resources like this to help keep sane!!

Wow, thanks for the responses guys! Will continue to practice quill wings and post some pics soon. Thanks Again!

Ok, now to tackle the other big deficit in my traditional fly-tying arsenal, peacock quill bodies for mayflies. Can you use herl from a pack of strung peacock herl for bodies on flies like Quill Gordons or do you need to use quills from peacock eyes? Do you coat the body with head cement or SHAN? Any tips appreciated.

So after 20 years of tying trout flies, I've finally got around to trying quill-winged wet flies and have some questions. Do y'all coat the quills with something (Flexament, etc) to increase the durability of the wings? Do they hold up to catching multiple fish? What are the best way to prevent them from splitting? Does anyone even fish these things much anymore (I love their looks and the challenge of tying them)?

So I've been wanting to tie up some smaller Buggers, may be size 10. Do you all use Whiting Bugger Packs for most of your wooly buggers or just some larger feathers off a dry fly neck? I really like the looks of solid color hackle on black Buggers. Do you all use grizzly mostly or solid colors on Wooly Buggers? Thanks

So it never crossed my mind until the other day about what direction I spin my dubbing on the thread until I read a post about winding it a certain direction made it 'get tighter' as you wind the dubbing onto the hook. I checked as I was tying and realized I spin my dubbing on counterclockwise if looking down the thread from above. To do this I pull my thumb across the pad of my index finger from the tip of my finger towards the palm of my hand thus the dubbing goes on counterclockwise. Is this the best direction to apply dubbing? Does it really make the dubbing tighten up as I wrap it? Have I been doing it wrong for 25 years?!? Any input appreciated Thanks, Jed

I was searching YouTube for videos of old tying vises I had seen in the past from a guy with the handle of classic fly tyer or something similar but cannot find them now. I recently bought an old Thompson vise and was looking for info on other Thompson vises. If anyone knows of the videos I'm thinking about and where to find them, please let me know. Also, any sites with info on classic vises would be appreciated as well. Thanks, Jed Green

Hello, I was wondering what everyone was using for ribbing material on Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear nymphs? I had mainly used gold wire but noticed the ribbing didn't show up much so I ordered some UNI French oval tinsel in size medium. This was OK but seemed too big for anything smaller than a #12. Should I just order UNI French oval in size small? Are there any better options than this tinsel? Would like something durable that also gives a nice visible ribbed effect. Thanks, Jed

So I had a little mishap with a couple dry fly necks and I need to replace some. I have always bought Whiting Bronze but was interested in the difference in the High and Dry vs Pro Grade and comparing either with the Bronze capes? I mainly tie trout flies in 18-12 range. Mainly looking for brown and grizzly. Thanks, Jed

I know it sounds like the name of the fly should give away the tying recipe but I was wondering what everyones favorite type of hair for EHCs was? I have read a fair amount about people actually preferring to use certain types of deer hair? Any input appreciated. Thanks, Jed

I'm really enjoying tying on this vise. I came along as rotary vises were beginning to be 'the vise to have' and not since my first cheap tying-kit Sunrise vise have I tied on a non-rotary vise. It makes getting to the back of the hook easy and your left hand has a natural rest to help steady it. I'm not trading off my Renzetti but this old Thompson ain't bad! I really like how stinkin' heavy this base is. It's heavier than the saltwater Renzetti Traveler base I have! I do believe based on the pics of older Thompson catalogs and instruction booklets that this was the Pro II vise as the stem is threaded to screw into the collar and the base, just as in the literature, and not just slide into a generic 3/8" base that uses a set screw. Once the stem is screwed into the base and the big ol' locking collar is screwed down, that baby ain't going anywhere. Thanks for all of the replies. Does anyone still tie on a Thomspson? I'd love to see a Model B (screw-type) in action as the WWII vet that taught me to tie used one. Man how I wished I'd ask to buy that after he passed.

Thanks for all the info guys! Bass master, The instruction sheets were very helpful and based on the info you n them, mine is a Pro 2 and the base is just like the one in the 360 diagram. Thanks Again!

Thank you for the replies. FK, I was concerned about the pedestal when contemplating bidding on it. Once it arrived I saw where the stem is actually threaded into the base and the thicker collar on the lower part of the stem serves to lock it in place. Based on this I was thinking the base was original. About the pivot pin, I had read on some older posts here in the forum that a pin just like this was supplied with either the midge or magnum jaws when bought separately. There appears to be little wear on the jaws themselves. Mostly just dusty and some light surface rust on the bluing. Any other feedback appreciated. Thanks Again

So I have recently become interested in old Thompson fly vises partly due to the history and nostalgia and partly because I needed a simple vise to teach others to tie. I read all that I could find about the different models and types of Thompsons with keen interest. After this I settled my search on a Model A due to the popularity and reputation for durability. I started scanning the evil auction site and recently landed the vise you see here. It looks a lot like a Model A but with a very sturdy pedestal base which I preferred due to my wife's notion that dents in our tables somehow detract from their appearance. Can anyone tell me: - what model this is? - when it was likely made? - where I might get any replacement parts of I ever need them? - general tips for use, maintenance, and general care?

Thanks for the replies. I was mainly wanting recommendations for specifically what feathers folks were using for the 'legs' or collars on Prince, Tellico, and other similar nymphs. I notice that most of these patterns in stores have glossy thinner feather fibers that look more like rooster hackle than hen hackle. I wasn't sure, though, if some of the more recent 'genetic' hen necks were glossy and had thinner fibers to be acceptable. Thanks

So I have been wanting to tie better traditional nymphs such as Prince Nymphs, Tellico Nymphs, etc. My problem is that I can't seem to find the right hackle to use. I don't want to use dry-fly neck or saddle hackle. I bought a Wapsi hen neck but those seem too soft. Are India or Chinese necks the answer? No local shop has those for me to look at. Please help! Thanks, Jed

I wrestled with this myself for a while but I have been nothing but pleased with my Renzetti Traveler. They have upgraded the pedestal base a few years ago to the 'saltwater base and it now is my absolute favorite and that's after trying friends Peak, Dyna-King, and other vises.

Mike, I have to agree with Kimo as I have recently swapped to the TyFlyz "hackle tweezers" and love them! They hold like nobody's business and won't break the stem. They aren't the heaviest pliers/tweezers but have enough weight to keep decent tension when dangling below the vise. Highly recommended! Regards, Jed

Sounds cool. Does anyone know if Hans has this method in any YouTube videos or any other sources?

I've been inspired by several wonderful tyers and their flies that I've seen posted here in the forum. I've always admired soft hackles for their simplicity and grace but after trying to tie a few I've come to appreciate that 'simple' doesn't always mean easy. The devil is in the details to get that 'umbrella' look to the hackles, a small neat head, and properly proportioned body. Here's my attempt at a slightly modified Partridge and Orange I have a few other patterns I've been working on, mostly concoctions of my own and a hot-butt version of a Starling and Peacock

Ok. Now where from the skin do you pluck your feathers? Neck, shoulders, wings??

So I have been tinkering around with soft hackles more lately and was looking to tie some smaller flies. My Hungarian partridge skin will only get down to about #12-14. I've seen some beautiful flies from members like letumgo and others that used Starling. I bought a Starling skin as I had read where they can tie smaller flies but I've never used Starling before. What feathers are the best for soft hackles? Do you strip feathers completely off one side or food them back? Thanks

Hello, I was going through my fly tying materials the other day and found my bead box had some of the labels missing. I can't remember which ones were tungsten and which were brass. I fish a lot of fast pocketwater and the tungsten really helps get flies in the strike zone. Will tungsten beads stick to a magnet? Any other way to tell brass beads (various finishes) from tungsten beads? Thanks, Jed

Hello, I've been a fan of A. K. Best for years and have always wondered how the gets the tails on most of his dry flies to sit with a slightly upward angle? Does anyone know his trick for this? Does he use a bump of tying thread to kick the tails up a little? Any help appreciated. Thanks, Jed