A while ago I posted a picture of a wooden flybox I made, I was looking for some foam to line it. Thanks to a member here I found the foam I was looking for. However I have had several request for plans on how to make the flybox. Here we are. First, on the picture of the box the dark wood (sides) is bubinga 1/2 “ thick and 4” wide and the top and bottom as well as the middle inside are Russian birch plywood 1/4 “ thick, about 11”x11”. Ok, the bubinga was not available in boards wider than 4 inches, I would suggest you use wood that’s 5 to 6” wide so the compartments can be deep enough for big flies. In the drawing at the top in blue are the sides, a groove of 1/8 “ (width of the sawcut) was made 1/4 “ deep on each side and 1/4 “ wide in the middle. In red are the top bottom and middle parts made with the plywood, the top and bottom were rabetted (can be done with a router or a table saw) to fit in the grooves, the middle panel was left as is. The corner of the sides ( bubinga, blue in the drawing) were routed to a smooth curve (dotted blue line in the drawing) sanding could be used, just to smooth out the edges. Once you have your 7 pieces cut and do a test fit you need to clamp everything together. I used a simple webbelt binder which is not the greatest thing, you can use several clamps or this new thing that I bought but haven’t had time to try yet Binder or another option is Binder in my opinion these things will work better. On the bottom of the drawing you can see a corner of the finished box with simple 45 degrees miter joints. The trick with boxes like this one is that the top is separated from the bottom after the box is glued together! You basically run the whole box ( the 4 sides one after the other ) on the table saw to separate them, a bandsaw would be better having a thinner blade. After making this box, I bought a book on boxmaking Box book they suggest that when you do the cut to separate top and bottom, not to cut right through as in the purple on the right on the drawing, but to make the cut go almost through, but not quite (purple on the left) then open it up with a boxcutter or knife and sand the edge smooth, this will result in a much cleaner cut. Ok now comes the bad part, I made the center panel just a little smaller then the 2 outside ones, which resulted in the middle part to become unglued when I pressed inside to glue the foam. Why?? Because for glue to be effective the glued pieces have to be pressed together tightly, which was not the case here since the middle panel was cut a little short. Don’t do that! Another option that I will try on my next box is to use a miter lock joint which should prevent that Lock miter I already have the bit and I am looking forward to making more boxes with it. Next comes the foam, Millstream sells a ripple boat patch Ripple foam that’s 12x15” unfortunately, no one has it in stock in Canada, however it’s easy to get in the States or mail order. Next comes the flatfoam, that’s another story, impossible to find in those sizes, until a member here suggested that I go to a prosthesis/prosthetics store and that’s where I found Aliplast foam, I was sold some in 1/4 “ and 1/8 “ for a very reasonable price and it looks and feel exactly the same as some replacement flat foam for flyboxes. On my next box I plan on gluing some of the 3M’s C&F fly filing system fly filing , that is gluing some of the spare foam insert changers insertsspare so I can have several insets in my flybox. Questions, comments?? Happy woodworking.
here is a picture of the boxBox and here is the plan