Dubbing Loops

[SullyTM 0]

Greetings All...

 

I just bought a dubbing loop gizzmo and am wondering if anyone has any tips on good dubbing loop use. I tried tying a leech pattern and I couldn't get the dubbing to "hold" between the loop threads...Do I have to spin the dubbing on one of the loop thread strands, or am I doing something wrong? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Thom

[Bamboo 0]

 

Should just need to place the dubbing between the threads and then spin the two threads, forming a rope, until it tightens up on the dubbing. I use dubbing loops when I'm after a shaggier appearance. Spinning the dubbing to one of the threads would defeat the purpose.

 

 

-Bamboo

 

[appalachian angler (tn.) 0]

try a light coating of tacky wax on one or both strands of thread prior to spining the tool.

 

AA

[Guest]

depending on the looks you want, you can apply it to a dubbing loop a few different ways.... very loose in between the loops make a very buggy look, tighter in the loops a little more ropeish, then if you spin it on one side of the loop, then twist it will be a much tighter rope, less buggy (which is sometimes what you want).

[SullyTM 0]

Thanks...you CAN teach an old dog new tricks Thom

[jonnyrotten 0]

If your thread is big enough take your bodkin and split the tread. Insert the dubbing and spin your bobbin threader. The more you spin the tighter the rope. I hope this works for you.

JR

[Kyle Hand 0]

Another trick I use is after getting my dubbing in the loop, grab the two threads above the dubbing tool and spin the twister. The loops will not spin until you let do of the thread, but you will be surprised at how little material falls out this way.

 

Being a collector of fly tying tools, I recently purchased a Petitjean dubbing tool. I love almost everything about this tool. It has a spring on the two legs of the tool to adjust tension and you can buy clips to clip the various colors of dubbing after you insert them into the loop. What I do is insert material into the loop, slide the spring up to keep the dubbing in line, cut more material and move the spring, etc. After you do it a couple of times it is not that big a deal but the material does behave better.

 

I said I love almost everything. It needs to have a heavier handle to spin your dubbing loop and it would be perfect.

 

Kyle

[jocapesca 0]

Quad Turbo Dubbing Twister God tool .

 

Provides a choice between spinning loop tool and dubbing twister function for versatility and ease of function. The precision bearing assembly makes tying easier and more precise. The advantage of this tool is that it is designed to give maximum working clearance. Meaning that the spinning body is further way from the fly. No extra tools required for the changing of the heads, (if your desk is like ours), one less tool to misplace or cover up.

This is a fly tying tool freak's tool. It has got more attachments for spinning dubbing and hackles in more different ways than you can imagine. It even comes with it's own special wrench for changing attachements. Made from stainless steel & brass it is made to last.

 

It consists of following parts:

 

1-twister body, ball bearing head

2-jointed hard loop for spinning deer hair

3-dubbing hook for dub materials onto tying thread

4-jointed soft loop for spinning finer dubbing materials, cdc feathers, etc

5-jointed hackle plier for winding hackles

6-adjusting key for easy replacement individual bits

 

[Guest]

Here is a link to a thread on this board started at the same time as your previous post called 'Dubbing Loops'. http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=11089

[Flysmith 0]

I noticed several of you mention that you split the thread to give dubbing a thinner profile. I like using this method, but my old eyes just can't seem to coordinate with the hand. Do any of you have a secret method to easily split the tying thread?

[Kyle Hand 0]

You can use some "Mag Eyes" or similar contraption to give you a little extra help in that area.

 

Another thing I have done is take a smaller sewing needle, insert it into a piece of balsa and make my own bodkin specifically for thread splitting.

 

The type of thread you use is also very important. You want a thread that will flatten out. Some of them do not.

 

I am not plugging anyone because I use all of them, but I have found that UTC 70 or Thompson's 6/0 is great for this. If I am demonstrating the process and I know the lighting is going to be bad in the building, I will use UTC 140.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Kyle

[mozes 0]

QUOTE

I noticed several of you mention that you split the thread to give dubbing a thinner profile. I like using this method, but my old eyes just can't seem to coordinate with the hand. Do any of you have a secret method to easily split the tying thread?

 

Try to flatten your thread before you split it. Spin the bobbin until the tread is flat and then split it.

[Brookieboy 0]

All great tips. Just got a MP Magic Tool (about $30), and the MP dubbing tool. Am deeeeelighted with both. The Magic Tool makes it easy to combine different dubbing colors and materials, and the dubbing tool is a very clever item.

There is also a Magnum Magic Tool for larger flies (same price, about $30)

 

Take care guys