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Steve P

Hook help please

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I am looking for a freshwater 4xl shank hook, I am needing at least a 2/0 but would like to be able to find something that I can get in 5/0 as well a larger gape would be good as well but not necessary. Also hoping to find a 2x strong shank so that rules out stinger hooks. Any help is appreciated and though I have what I want in a mustad 34011 it is stainless and I need a bronzed hook please. I know it's out there but after days of searching I am coming up blank. Thanks in advance.

 

Steve

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Steve, what is the need for bronze over stainless? What are you tying? If you're looking for a long shank to tie a long fly, maybe you could do it on a tube and make a tube fly?

 

Kirk

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I am looking for a freshwater 4xl shank hook, I am needing at least a 2/0 but would like to be able to find something that I can get in 5/0 as well a larger gape would be good as well but not necessary. Also hoping to find a 2x strong shank so that rules out stinger hooks. Any help is appreciated and though I have what I want in a mustad 34011 it is stainless and I need a bronzed hook please. I know it's out there but after days of searching I am coming up blank. Thanks in advance.

The Daiichi 2460 might fit the bill. It is a 3XL hook but comes in sizes up to 6/0, so you could just upsize to make up the difference between a 4XL hook. Designed as a bass/pike hook, this is the closest I could find among the major fly tying hooks manufacturers. Anyone who sells Daiichi's should be able to order you some.

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Kirk, I am tying KDM rats for bass fishing this summer and just do not want to break one off in a nice fish (or any fish for that matter) and have them be stuck with that big ole' bushy thing in their lip for a long time until their lip rots off and the fly can fall out. If I use a bronzed hook it will simply rust out in a couple weeks. Though I hate to think about them being stuck with a fly in their lip for a couple or three weeks I still believe it would not be good for them to be stuck with on in the lip for any period of time and I plan to use very heavy tippet with a super strong furled leader I am just trying to take precautions just in case.

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Kirk, I am tying KDM rats for bass fishing this summer and just do not want to break one off in a nice fish (or any fish for that matter) and have them be stuck with that big ole' bushy thing in their lip for a long time until their lip rots off and the fly can fall out. If I use a bronzed hook it will simply rust out in a couple weeks. Though I hate to think about them being stuck with a fly in their lip for a couple or three weeks I still believe it would not be good for them to be stuck with on in the lip for any period of time and I plan to use very heavy tippet with a super strong furled leader I am just trying to take precautions just in case.

Gotcha, I've never tied tube flies, but if you know how to, that may be a good option. Short shanked hooks are way stronger and give the fish less leverage to twist off.

I've heard that thing about bronze hooks rusting out, but not quite sure I buy it. Either way, even if you smashed your barb down and the fish threw or swallowed the stainless hook in a day or two, the 34011 would not be my hook of choice for heavy fish and cover. Most, not all, stainless hooks are not a very strong and the longer shanked 34011 is even less strong. A carbon steel hook that is tinned is best for big fish.

Man, I'd like to see that KDM Rat when you get one tied up.

 

Kirk

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I have all the stuff to tie tubes and do tie a hand full of them from time to time. The only issue is that it's hard to get a tube to run hook point up!! But yeah they are super effective for bass and I really like to use them for longer streamers so I can get the benefits of a short heavy wired hook.

 

Steve

 

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As long as you fly is tied to have one side up (baitfish) its easy to make a tube fly with the hook up. Use a ring eye hook and a short piece of vinyl tubing (like aquarium hose). Put the vinyl tubing onto the rear end of your tube then put the hook eye into the tubing in the position you want it to stay. It's called keying the hook.

 

There's a couple of books out on tube flies. This technique is in the books.

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Why not use straight shank worm hooks. I use them for various types of bass flies. You can get them up to 5/0. Some are bronze, some are black nickel, some of the older models had a black finish like is on Salmon fly hooks. They're strong enough to handle most any size bass, and have a wide gape.

 

The only issue may be the shank length, but that fly looks like it could be tied on most straight shank worm hooks.

 

 

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Buggy, thanks for that little tip. I am new to fishing tubes but have been tying them for a couple years now, I will try this and see if I can get it to work out for me.

 

Tidewater, I am currently tying them on straight shank worm hooks in 4/0 but the problem is that the shank is a 2xl and the 34011 in a size 2 (the biggest I have on hand) shank is the same length as the 4/0 hook I am using....... still looking for a bit more shank.

 

Titan, I know the stainless will not break but if my line breaks the fly will not come out until the mouth of the fish begins to decay because of the same fact.... crushing the barb may or may not help it release itself but I still do not want to tie this on a stainless shank.

 

Thanks for all the comments and such so far I really appreciate it.

 

Steve

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Hi Steve P;

 

Why don't you want to use stinger hooks???

 

Wayne

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Hi Steve P;

 

Why don't you want to use stinger hooks???

 

Wayne

 

I tried them and I think the gap is a bit too wide for what I am looking for, I do believe I am on to something with a no name worm hook I found at the local bait shop for .99 per 10

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