tonywtc 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 Hi, I got into fly tying last year and now this year I am getting into hunting, I plan on hunting deer, rabbit, and some types of bird such as pheasant. I am looking for someone who can tell me EVERYTHING there is to know about preparing/tanning your own deer or rabbit or how to prepare/take feathers from a bird to make them safe to use for fly tying (killing the bugs) so the materials wont rot/break down or infect my flies or fly tying materials Thanks, Trevor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonywtc 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 or also if anyone could advise me of a video with the proper methods contained on you tube or something Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr. Vegas 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 my best suggestion is go to the library and get a book on tanning. I will answer every question and more Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MowestFlyfisher 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 my best suggestion is go to the library and get a book on tanning. I will answer every question and more this would be my suggestion as well there are many different methods. since everyone has kinda their own methods. Or you could talk to your local taxidermist he or she might be able and willing to help you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skidoosh 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 There are numerous threads on this. 1)Borax- 2) From Field to Fly- get the book Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MowestFlyfisher 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 Borax is a good way to cure small hides like rabbit, squirrel, and birds. i would suggest salting the larger hides. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phg 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 Actually, you should use both salt and borax. The salt draws out the moisture while the borax kills vermin and sets the hair/fur/feathers so they don't just fall off. Salt by itself will kill most vermin, but may not get all the eggs. With many thin skinned materials, this is all that's needed. With thicker skins, like deer, you need to tan the hide. With fatty skins, like ducks, you need to get all the fat out, or else it will turn rancid on you. Tanning is a whole complicated topic on it's own. The skins don't have to be tanned, if they are properly cured, but they are easier to handle, and less prone to becoming malodorous. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
perchjerker 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 For bird skins, museums typically use only borax, as there is darned little 'water' in their skins that needs to be 'extracted'. Salt is preferred on all mammal hides to draw the water out of the skin. It is not necessary to use borax on mammal skins so long as you generously salt the hair side also. The salt typically takes care of such things as ticks, lice and fleas (they ultimately come off the hide 'salt cured'). As previously mentioned, your local library should have, or at least can get for you, good books on taxidermy. There are also books on the care and preservation of all kinds of animals, from jellyfish to whale skeletons for Museum Specimens, and from the time they are collected 'in the field' to time for curation ( being put on the shelf, in the drawer, or out for public display). Your local library can get any, and all, such books on these subjects by means of Inter Library Loan if they don't have them 'on the shelf'. aged sage Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonywtc 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 The Information you guys have given me is defiantly helping Thank you very much! One more thing, I hear of people putting things in the freezer to kill bugs too, what has to be done to make this an effective method? Thanks, Trevor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EricF 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 Eric Leiser - _Fly Tying Materials_ - Great book, tell you everything you need to know. My experience is the toughest part is step 1. Get the critter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trout.vs.Bass 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2011 Well you can always shoot canadian geese to get the goose biots from them. The only problem with i noticed on the one i shot is that they are not fully dyed black. The sides are black and the rest is white, But they still look good. It kind of reminds me of a coconut, black on the outside white on the inside. lol :headbang: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
perchjerker 0 Report post Posted February 9, 2011 trout.vs.bass: They are not dyed on the bird. They grow that way! Many birds with black plumage show the black only on the upper surface, and the lower surface is much lighter; sometimes nearly white. Grackles and crows (ravens) are some that immediately come to mind who have feathers as black on the bottom side as on the top side (some pigeons too). aged sage Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phg 0 Report post Posted February 10, 2011 I like to use Canada goose biots for stonefly nymph tails, for just that reason. I like the look, and the flies catch fish.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MowestFlyfisher 0 Report post Posted February 10, 2011 The Information you guys have given me is defiantly helping Thank you very much! One more thing, I hear of people putting things in the freezer to kill bugs too, what has to be done to make this an effective method? Thanks, Trevor Trevor this method is easily done it just takes time you should leave the material that you want the bugs kill in the freezer for at least a week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
