Tools

[Ruffells311 0]

As am I am on journey deeper and deeper in to fly fishing and fly tying, I find my self at a point now where I really want to expand my fly tying. Capabailities, quality, and quantity for my fly tying is what I'm focused on (except spending money on hooks, I still haven't brought my self to that. So, I still buy $5-7 100 pack cheap hooks and I do know buying the "right" hooks would increase my hook up ratios and better quality flies, but for now that is quantity over quality ).

 

Anyway, I am looking to buy some tools that would help me with my capabilities of more patterns. When I say tools, I mean any type of glues, bobbins, bobbin threaders, dub spinning tools, dubbing wax, PAINTS, markers, hackle pliers, lighting, magnifiers, mini-vaccum cleaner, blender/grinder for dubbing, storage, and many other tools. So, when I say tools, I mean absolutely anything that helps you tie flies in anyway. What are your must have tools? What are your tools that you find really helpful? What tools do you find to be completely specialty tools? Do you prefer brass over aluminum tools? How do you store your tools? Do you prefer a single brand of tools over another? Why? Do you modify any of your tools? Are there tools you prefer to make yourself? Where do you prefer to buy your tools?

 

One I am really concerned with is bobbins. My bobbin is a cheap off brand one that I have used for two years and it is finally starting to wear out. I would like to know exactly what your favorite bobbin is? Brand, type, and length. Personally I like smaller bobbins because they are easy to work with.

 

I thought of many more questions, but they were lost in the process .

 

Thanks for your help in advance! I really appreciate this site and am honored to get to talk to and see all of the amazing information all of you put on here. Tis a great community, full of great people!

 

Thanks again,

Daniel

[Ruffells311 0]

Sorry for any typos. This iPhone isn't too easy to type and read on.

[Ruffells311 0]

Another thought on the bobbin thing, too. I haven't been able to work well with smaller threads. I have only been able to do about 140 denier as the smallest. I have tied with 70 denier but I struggle greatly with it. I'd like to be able to cover from 210 to 70 denier with ease. If it is nessacry, two bobbins for larger and smaller sized threads would be fine. I would still like specifics on which ones are your most favorite. With details about te bobbin it's self and why you like it the most.

 

Thanks again,

Daniel

[dazzyd 0]

WOW - thats a load of questions Daniel!

 

My advice is to buy the best tools you can afford - as you have discovered, cheap tools need replacing or cause frustration, but high-end tools won't necessarily make you a better tyer - that comes from practice, practice and more practice...

 

Some call me a Tackle Tart because most of my tools are by C&F - a bit pricey but well designed and really nice to use - I have several Bobbin Holders (ceramic tube - less likely to cut thread), Whip Finish Tool, Hackle Pliers and dubbing needle and a £250 Waldron Vice - I appreciate well-designed tools... but does it make me a better tyer?

 

Thread I use is Uni 6/0, 8/0, Trico 17/0, UCT 70 and 140 Den - but use each thread for a particular size/style of fly, you wouldn't use Trico for a streamer or 6/0 for a #20 dry fly (well maybe you could try!)

 

Lighting - any bench-top anglepoise lamp will do - or two even...

 

 

Varnish - Sally Hansens HAN, diluted with Acetone (NOT nail varnish thinners).

 

If your eyesight is poor, I use a clip-on magnifier for my glasses - you have to move your head towards the vice to focus but better I feel than having a magnifying lens in the way of the vice.

 

 

Dubbing - Empty dubbing boxes are available or you can just use small ziplock bags, if you want to mix your own then an old coffee grinder works but then so does a plastic bag into which you blow air from an air duster can - there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube etc that will show you so you can decide which you prefer...

 

 

Hope this helps - but remember that the answers to your questions will just be opinions - and like bumholes, everyone has one!

 

Darrell

[Crackaig 0]

Hi Daniel, Darrell is right that's a lot of questions.

 

For me a myriad of tools only slows the process down. I tend to keep the number to a minimum. I love to make my own tools where I can.

 

My tying lamp is an OTT Lite daylight lamp. Good light is essential.

 

Bobbins. There are many excellent ones out there. What I have settled on are the Tempco ceramic tubed ones. I use the smallest size. Mine are modified by removing the rubber tubing over the joint and forming a "bullet" from hot melt glue. Over time the rubber tubing becomes loose and is a pain. These don't do anything special, just hold the thread.

 

Scissors. These I view as consumable. I buy fairly cheap ones and change them often. At best they only last me a year.

 

Needles I find essential. I have one for applying head cement. That's just a standard dubbing needle. One for split thread work, made from a sewing machine needle (they are designed to go through thread without damaging it). For forming detached bodies I have a fine sewing needle which I heated up and bent at the eye end so my vice can grip it easier.

 

Hair stacker. Again I have seen many lovely examples of these, that I'm sure are a joy to own. For practical work though the smallest and the largest you can get will cover everything.

 

To go with the hair stacker you'll need a comb. A nit comb from the local chemist shop (drug store) will be fine. I like one fixed to my bench so I can cut comb and drop the hair into the stacker without changing grip on the hair.

 

Hackle pliers. Again there are lots to choose from. Many just do not work. I've yet to find any that I'm 100% happy with. The best I have found so far for grip are Hackle Nabbers. I also use a very small set of English hackle pliers. Mainly for winding soft hackles.

 

That about sums up my basic tool kit. You also mention glues and varnished. There is usually a tube of superglue on the bench, get the good stuff, if is more waterproof. UV Resin has been a revelation to me. It is brilliant in that I no longer have loads of flies sitting around drying. For this reason alone it is worth the expense.

 

One investment that is well worth while is hand cream. Look after your hands and it will make tying much easier. For years I worked in mechanical engineering, and had the sort of hands you would associate with that. It took a lot of work to repair that damage. It has proved to be well worth it in the end.

 

Cheers,

C.

 

Cheers,

C.

[dazzyd 0]

Daniel

 

as a side issue - and if you remember what I said about opinions - scissors is where Alan and I have differing opinions...

 

Alan ties commercially whereas I don't, but I purchase better quality scissors and have them sharpened by a professional company when they become dull.

 

Sharpening costs between £2.50 and £4.00 per pair which is about the same as a cheaper pair, and they come back often sharper than when they were new... sorry Alan

 

I too use hand cream - I work in print and paper is great at sucking out moisture from your hands but be aware that some hand creams can leave your hands greasy, so look for a light cream that soaks in easily.

 

 

Standing on dodgy ground with better tyers around me - Darrell

[Chefben4 0]

Ive been at fly tying about 3 years now and have seen a progression in my tools along the way. When I started I bought a bass pro shops fly tying kit with a very poor vise and pretty bad quality tools. After a while tying I started to pick up new tools and start to appreciate the better quality stuff.

 

Vise: I upgraded recently to a Peak vise and I couldn't be happier. Works great for me!

 

Bobbins: I am a fan of Rite-Bobbins. The only part that isn't great about them is the time it takes to change thread. If you can afford it, buy a few so you can have different thread colors at the ready. Whatever, you do it sounds like you would benefit from a ceramic tube as mentioned above.

 

Scissors: I am still trying to learn what I want with scissors. I buy my Iris (very fine, sharp tip) scissors for $1.50 at local gun shows. They are made of crap metal in Pakistan but hold an edge surprisingly well as long as you don't cut things you shouldn't be cutting with them (wire). If you are working with hair at all I recommend double serrated scissors. They cut hair the best IMO. Mine weren't expensive (Montana fly company) but are reaching the end of their useful life (about 6 months for me). So I am interested on hearing some opinions on scissors as well. Now that I started tying classic wet flies I can see the benefit of good scissors, so I guess you could say "I'm in the market!"

 

Light: No question about it, Ottlite

 

Storage: I am a big stickler on organization. I have two large 3 tray storage containers where I separate materials by use. (ie. Deer Hair Drawer, Hackle, Fur, Dubbing, etc). I also have a storage box that was originally meant for screws and stuff where I keep small things in labeled drawers (eyes, beads, cones, thread, etc). For hooks I buy the "hook storage" containers. They are roughly 12" long and have 20 or so small spots for hooks. I like to have two boxes, one for my warmwater/saltwater stuff and the other for coldwater hooks.

 

Thats all I have for now! Glad to help where I can!

[agn54 0]

For bobbins there are a ton of choices but make sure you get ceramic as aothers have said. I have a few Griffin and Dr. Slick bobbins that work well for me. For scissors, I have a few cheap pairs that I use for wire or trimming, but I mainly use Dr. Slicks. They cost about $15 but are super sharp and stay that way for a while. Mine are a few years old and I have not yet needed to re-sharpen them. The important thing is to not use the good ones to cut any wire. Good scisors are well worth the price. I hear good things about the Anvil scissors but haven't tried them yet

[Crackaig 0]

Darrel, no need to apologise, I've paid out for expensive scissors. (Well relatively expensive. £2000 is not unknown for good hairdressing scissors, I'd never go that far.) The problem is if I pay say £20 for good scissors the hardening on them is only a few thou deep or less, they are usually case hardened mild steel, or low grade stainless, at that price. Sharpen them twice and then I find I need to sharpen them every other week as the hard surface has gone. Case hardening doesn't usually go deeper than 0.001". If I spend the extra they may last me a couple or three years before reaching the useless for tying stage. That would have cost me say £20 for scissors and £6 for two lots of sharpening. In that time I may use as many as four or five pair of cheap scissors. Having only paid £2 to £3 each, so a maximum of say £15. These are the kind of things you have to think of when tying like I do. Its what I have found cheapest over time. I like the design of the MP and C&F scissors but they are even more costly.

 

Just yesterday I was looking at a display of high end nail scissors, and wondered if any of those would be good for tying. My budget though does not permit £30 experiments, so they are still in the shop.

 

As we tie for different reasons, and different flies, and use scissors differently, mileage will vary. The person who taught me to tie is still using the same scissors after 30 odd years. I wish... Then again I often tie more in a week than he ties in 10 years.

 

I don't know if there is really any good shortcut to finding what tying tools you will need. Mostly its a case of suck it and see if it contributes to the tying you do. What is worth while is finding out what various tools really are. For example £8 for a daddy long legs leg tying tool or £1 for the same thing sold as a latched baiting needle. Its easy to be conned if you don't know.

 

Cheers,

C.

[dazzyd 0]

Alan

 

Yes, there are scissors and scissors and valid arguments for and against on many levels - each to their own and no one is really right or wrong... my fav ones are Surgical steel quality I obtained FOC from a client who supplied hospitals - they retailed 10 years ago at around £65 each and surfice to say I never lend them out!

 

"...still using the same scissors after 30 odd years"

 

That reminds that the "old guard" in my branch keep trotting out the line "I've used this brass bobbin holder for 40 years!", but they fail to recognise that the manufacturing quality back in the day was much superior to the cheap tut that is made today - When I teach my Novices group I advise Ceramic tube bobbin holders because for just a couple of pounds more than a cheap brass one if they break the thread it probably won't be the tube's fault - I've seen too many novices struggle with broken threads due to a cheap brass tube bobbin holder with a nick somewhere inside it...

 

Now standing on quicksand and waiting for a rescue Darrell

[Peterjay 0]

Regarding bobbins: everybody has their favorites - I mostly use a ceramic Griffin and I like it - just don't bother with the cheap no-name stuff you find on Ebay, etc. I hate to admit it in public, but I recently did just that, and they lasted a couple of days before they started fraying the thread. They're currently spooled with lead wire, which is all they're good for. (at least I'm getting my money's worth) I'm from the cheapo scissors school, but I tie for salt water, and delicate work is pretty minimal. You might want to invest in a quality pair for the times when precision is needed and pick up some cheap nail/cuticle scissors for the heavier chores. It'll greatly increase the lifespan of the good ones. I usually keep three pairs on the desk while I'm working: a quality pair, cheap, fine pointed cuticle scissors, and a pair of curved nail scissors. Another useful purchase was a set of miniature pliers that I bought at Lowe's for about $12. There are six or eight pliers of various types - they're good for cutting wire, pinching down barbs, flattening mono, etc. - lots of uses. If you're like me, you're gonna wind up with a bushel of cheap tools, but it's nice to have them when you need them, and I've used them all at some point.

[Crackaig 0]

Darrel, if cost isn't an issue then there is some real quality out there. I saw someone tying with eye surgeon's iris scissors. Fine, but at over £200 a pair...

 

When you look at today's manufacture compered to that of say the 1950's you can see an amazing difference. Especially in the quality of materials. When I started my apprenticeship I had to buy a steel rule. £7:95 was the asking price at the time. Today I can get one in the local hardware store for £2. My wage then was £23 a week (1979). Now, if I was in the same line of work, it would be 15 to 20 times that. Labour costs have gone up, selling price has gone down. The only thing left to give is quality. I'm certain the same comparison goes for fly tying tools.

 

Cheers,

C.

[utyer 0]

One thing about bobbins, you can (and should,) adjust the spring arms that hold the spools so that you can draw off the thread with out breaking it. Just gently bend the arms out a tiny bit until you can draw the size thread you are using without breaking it. When I get a bobbin adjusted just right for a 70 denier or 8/0 thread, I will mark it with red nail polish, then use some other color for 6/0, and a third color for 3/0 thread. Currently, I have 15 bobbins from different makers, but all ceramic tipped. My favorite of these is a Materelli bobbin with a red ceramic insert. Two of these (15) are Nor-vise Automatic bobbins. These will retract thread, and the tension is adjusted by wrapping the thread around one leg of the bobbin once or twice. The Automatic bobbins do require you to reload thread from a standard spool to the spool that comes with the bobbin. Since I load them from bulk spools, that's not a problem for me. I have to load my "standard" spools anyway.

 

Bobbin threaders are something you can make dental floss pullers work great, and can be inserted into a handle, or wrapped on the back of a dubbing needle (another tool you can make.)

 

Scissors. I have 3 Thompson ICE Tempered scissors, that are quite old, and I do sharpen them now about once a year. Anvil now sells ICE Tempered scissors, and they appear to be the same scissors.

[Crackaig 0]

If you are adjusting the legs of a bobbin hold the leg and bend against that grip, don't bend against the joint! (Yes that is the voice of experience).

Cheers,

C.

[dogsnfish 0]

Sounds like you are getting into it! Some very good advice above. I have been upgrading my equipment over the past few years. My spouse bought me a giraffe light/magnifier and I really like it. My eyes are showing the effects of age and it really helps. I have a couple of Rite bobbins that I use most of the time. I also bought Mitch's bobbin from Wasatch and use that when the pattern calls for a lot of dubbing or the use of peacock. I tried several brands of scissors and have settled on Anvils. I will go down to 24's and use a lot of 18, 20 and 22's, and they are the best for me at the moment, although that is one piece of equipment I would like to upgrade if I can find something better. Most of my other tools are from Wasatch. I bought a set for a friend who got me back into tying a couple of years ago without having tried them. I tried his and have been upgrading piece by piece until now it is most of my tools.