NoSlack 0 Report post Posted December 3, 2012 I second the flat pliers. You should hear a little crack/crunch, don't worry it's just the material breaking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hopperfisher 0 Report post Posted December 3, 2012 I just read through this again and just had to add one little bit of information that might be important to know. One of the posts said something about a flame or heat to remove materials would even melt the lead wraps. I would be very careful while doing this because the fumes from melting lead are very toxic and has been known to kill people. I watched a show years ago about the building of the Golden Gate bridge and the workers that died because of leads poisioning. I think, if I remember correctly, that the heat from the rivets and the lead based paint reacted and gave off toxic fumes that killed a number of workers. I have breathed so much body shop dust and paint fumes over the years that I am a little touchy on this subject and would hate to think of an otherwise healthy person exposing themselves to any toxins if it could be avoided. Take Care, Tony You shouldn't be using real lead anyway for the same reason waterfowl hunters are supposed to use steel or bismuth shot. I use lead substitute, it's basically thin soldering wire. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H Dot Verseman 0 Report post Posted December 4, 2012 You most definitely SHOULD be using lead, that fake lead free is nothing but CRAP. Okay, there are some places where you must go lead free, and I'll oblige, otherwise I almost always use lead wire. It is heavier, it is more easily manipulated, etc. Give it to me flat, round, square, anyway I can get it. However, I do have several tungsten wires on order for weighting, I'll give them a review. Tungsten is heavier than lead, so that may be the only thing that will convince me to stop using it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted December 4, 2012 You shouldn't be using real lead anyway for the same reason waterfowl hunters are supposed to use steel or bismuth shot. I use lead substitute, it's basically thin soldering wire. Most solders have some lead in them. Since lead has such a low melting point, it is part of the alloy ... silver and tin being the other part(s) of the alloy. While it is true that lead is a toxic metal, there's been no proof that the small amount of lead "introduced" into the environment by anglers and hunters has been detrimental. naturally occurring lead is more likely in those areas where it's been detected. If you're hunting birds, and using shotgun ammo, then tungsten would be a better choice, since the possibility of ingesting lead shot is present. But I do not believe that you'll eat a hook with lead on it, or even a lead weight. And I sincerely believe that any lead I've lost in the water has not contaminated the lake, river or what ever BOW involved. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
netabrookie 0 Report post Posted December 5, 2012 Huh...on October 29 you, hopperfisher. said that the red hot wire would even melt through lead wire and now you write that you only use a lead substitute....must have been a typo... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hopperfisher 0 Report post Posted February 4, 2013 I used lead early on in my tying but now I use lead free. I've melted both with a peice of clothes hanger heated with a cig lighter or on the gas stove with no problem. No need to use lead, if you are worried about sinking ability add a few extra turns if you think that lead is so much heavier. Use a kitchen scale and weigh an inch of each material (less than you would use) and see the benefit, or lack thereof. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
