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Fly Tying

hopperfisher

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About hopperfisher

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday October 1

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  • Favorite Species
    trout, pike
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    22

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  • Location
    Seal Rock, OR

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  1. Allen Fly Fishing...allenflyfishing.com good hooks, good prices...never had one break, straightened a couple out but from accidental catches (big steelhead , tiny trout fly)
  2. These replies are perfect! It's like any hobby where you have to buy tools and materials and make an effort, make time/money to do it with no hope for profit, think jewelry making...I'm a cheapskate in that I don't/can't buy every cape/saddle, dubbing, bead, etc. in every style and color...My whole tying kit has probably costed me between $500 and $700 dollars (that's all inclusive...vise, tools, materials, desk (home built), storage, everything), you have to be creative when you're poor! This hobby is worth it me because of the relaxation and satifaction I get from catching a fish on a fly I tied vs. bought. That said, I tie all my own flies, and have only bought flies only as appreciation for advice given at a fly shop. I tie flies for everything from the smallest trickle of a creek to stillwater to open ocean saltwater stuff, all inside of that $500-$700. To answer your question...WORTH IT TO ME for way more than just money! Good thread!
  3. Thanks for the reply...that does help. I have a Hareline calf tail as well, I think I'll just get some bucktail to use for my bigger stuff...calf tail is still my favorite hair for winging...I'm going to try some squirrel tail at some point too...I noticed you use it a lot too, do you have any tips on suppliers, techniques, etc.? Thanks again for all of your posts and information! Dutch
  4. flytire, First off, your flies are always spectacular! I look at them frequently for beauty, inspiration and aspiration. Hard to see scale in this pic, but it looks like about a size 4, maybe a 2? I have a question....where do you get your calf tail? The stuff I've been getting is only long enough to do a size 4, 2 if I'm lucky...and some is only long enough for Wulff wings. I'd like some hair that will do wings on 2/0 steelhead swingers...I was thinking of bucktail but it's too straight for my liking, I like how calf tail is crinkly...thoughts?
  5. Just picked up my flies at the PO yesterday, Thanks guys!!!
  6. Good start! Better looking flies than my first ones for sure! The bugger's good...as said, strung saddle hackle is your friend (and cheap, but get a quality brand) in the fly tying material world the mantra is...garbage in, garbage out, your hackle should be about 1.5 times the hook gap, tie it in by the tip, right in front of the tail and wrap forward, this will give you a reverse taper (wider at the front, skinnier at the tail...preferable for buggers) ...as far as the tail, only use half of what you used, preferably the longer half...keep tying up those spiders in size 10 or 12 and you'll keep your rod bent for sure! All of that said, take those out and fish the hell out of 'em...you might be surprised at how effective they are!
  7. hopperfisher

    Color

    Back when I fished 'gills and bass in TX, it was olive or brown buggers or a natural-ish dry fly in the morning and something bright, sub-surface in chartreuse, pink, white at mid-day and back to natural-toned dry flies in the evening....when I lived and fished in CO it was all natural, all the time, matching hatches, etc.....I'm in OR now playing with salmon and steelhead, different ball game...species, water clarity, temp, sky color, season all play a role in color choice (they don't eat a lot so you have to piss 'em off). All of that said, it mostly comes down to fishing a fly/lure that you have confidence in, if you don't have confidence in it, you won't fish it correctly or thoroughly. My best advice is to take as many colors and styles as you can, stay out all day, pay aytention to conditions and how they change throughout the day (water clarity and temp, time of day, sky conditions, etc., etc.), switch flies a lot, you'll begin to see patterns emerge that you will hone in on and then be able to narrow your selections. It also serves to keep a journal/log for future reference. This is how people get good at fishing, they pay attention and remember everything. A great deal of knowledge and understanding can be gained from just a day or two on the water. One last thing...about the time you think you've got it all figured out, those fish can turn on a dime and toss all that out the window....it's always a pursuit...part of the fun 😉 Cheers!
  8. SBPatt, I noticed in your recipes you have some dying guidelines for some materials. I, like many I suspect, am a little apprehensive about dying materials. Do you have a tutorial on how you dye your stuff? BTW, your flies are amazing, so full yet so sparse. I've admired them since joining the forum some years ago. I don't yet have the skill nor the stones to pack that much stuff onto a hook and make it look half as good. Hats off to you! Cheers! Dutch
  9. I guess I forgot to reply here, mine were in the mail on the 13th...
  10. flytire...combing before stacking is an interesting concept, do you find that you lose some of the crinkle, and possibly action, in the calf tail when you comb and stack?
  11. I use calf tail almost exclusively, you'll see when my swap flies arrive 😉😉. It doesn't stack well...too crinkly. I tie it in and if there any overly long fibers I just pluck 'em out.
  12. I'll be sending 2 sets as well...Sz 2 Purple Peril (variant) and Sz 6 Juicy Bug (variant)
  13. Though I don't tie them YET, I find the classic Atlantic salmon flies to be works of art. Just like paintings and sculptures, when these flies are well tied with amazing material placement, proportions, etc. they are simply magic... Many are fished and catch fish to this day. There aren't too many in the U.S. who fish them, but in western Europe (Scotland, Ireland, Scandinavia, etc.) people tie and fish the classic patterns exclusively. To watch one being tied by a talented tier is captivating... In the U.S. and especially in the west tiers in the late 1800s and early 1900s could not readily order and receive the exotic materials that European tiers had access to. Imagine ordering golden pheasant crests from Europe to Oregon, might take 6 months! They had to "live off of the land" so to speak. Pheasant, bucktail, turkey, deer hair, elk hair, chicken feathers, rabbit, and squirrel were on the tying menu. Where, in Europe, they hadn't thought of those materials. Bustard, golden pheasant, macaw, heron, seal, sheep's wool, chinese silk, jungle cock, and goose were on their menu. I bet if we took some of our flies to Europe they might look at ours cross eyed too!
  14. Nothing for this category, but I am developing/adapting a few patterns for Oregon coast winter steel...hoping like never before for a big return so I can test these patterns in a target rich environment!
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