sbr 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2014 I am getting ready to tie up some scuds with Silver Creeks resin for the backing instead of using clear plastic sheet. Wanted some feedback if anyone has used it for scuds. Do you apply the resin over the dubbing then wrap wire over hardened resin? Or do you wrap wire around dubbing then apply resin over both the wire and dubbing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoebop 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2014 I still apply a scud back of some kind to give a good foundation for the resin and give a smooth appearance. Scud dubbing is pretty spikey and it would be hard to make a smooth back without a skin of some sort. You can wrap your ribbing around before or after the resin whichever you prefer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2014 you might want to singe, trim or pull down all of the dubbing fibers from the back of the scud and then apply a light coat of resin, cure it and then wrap the rib forward and apply another coat of resin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2014 Here are scuds coated with my resin. I bought Sewology Clear Elastic from the sewing section of Hobby Looby. It is the same material as Hareline Scudback. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sbr 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2014 Ok so it sounds like everyone is still using a plastic sheet of some kind even with resin. Then coating the resin over both the plastic and wire Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2014 This is Kimo's work. You need to contact him about how to do resin scuds! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sculpinmaster 0 Report post Posted October 20, 2014 I used a UV resin on these. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2014 This is Kimo's work. You need to contact him about how to do resin scuds! Thanks Mikechell! Here you go. Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whatfly 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2014 VERY pretty fly...but that sure is a lot of work for just a scud pattern... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2014 VERY pretty fly...but that sure is a lot of work for just a scud pattern... Most definitely! Flytire has it right when he says "Fly tiers sure have a way of making things complicated". Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2014 It is a beautiful pattern. Regarding the UV resin, I notice several things. The resin is a thick resin and he does the initial cure with a UV laser. He uses a laser to speed up the cure. The polymerization is exothermic so the curing process releases heat, and fast curing a thick resin does not allow time for the heat to escape. So when he turns the fly, you can see that the resin has discolored. You cannot get a crystal clear resin cure with a thick resin unless there is a longer cure time to allow the heat build up to escape. My second comment is that even with the laser cure, the resin surface does not cure and requires a second longer cure under a UV lamp. I have used these lamps and the 2 minute he states will NOT cure the resin in my experience. It takes about 10 minutes which is no big deal since the labor is putting in a holder under the lamp and then removing it. Meanwhile you can tie other flies. To get a clearer resin you can do a partial cure with a UV flashlight to keep the resin in place and then do a final cure under the lamp. If you did not want to buy a special UV lamp to cure the tacky UV resins, I would just coat the fly with Sally Hansen or coat it with my resin for a tack free surface. My resin coating will prevent oxygen from blocking the curing process of the resin that has been coated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jor fly 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2014 Silver, I've always wondered: I use Loon resin for my flies (when I've finished my supply of Loon I'll buy some of yours, you have my word) and upon actual use its turns slightly white in color. Does you resin avoid this problem? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2014 Silver, I've always wondered: I use Loon resin for my flies (when I've finished my supply of Loon I'll buy some of yours, you have my word) and upon actual use its turns slightly white in color. Does you resin avoid this problem? Loon does that when it comes in contact with CA (Super Glue). Happens with CCG and Diamond Hard. Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted October 30, 2014 Silver, I've always wondered: I use Loon resin for my flies (when I've finished my supply of Loon I'll buy some of yours, you have my word) and upon actual use its turns slightly white in color. Does you resin avoid this problem? I honestly don't know. Did you let the CA glue completely cure. It cures by absorbing moisture from the air. If you are in a dry climate, I suppose the CA could take longer to cure Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted October 30, 2014 you may not need to use a CA glue prior to an application of silvercreeks uv resin. of course that depends on the purpose youre using the CA glue for Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
