JoeBillingsley

Mike, Even using less deer hair? Joe

There are arguments for both styles. Boot footed hippers will be less expensive overall because you won't need to buy wading boots. However, they won't be as comfortable for the same reason. Also, sometimes if you step in deep, sticky mud with boot footed hippers the mud will tend to want to pull them off your feet and legs. Stocking foot hippers allow you to buy separate boots that will be much more comfortable, as long as you get some decent boots that fit. I have had both and would recommend getting the stocking foot hippers and buy some good, well fitting, comfortable wading boots. Don't scrimp on the boots. Get some that fit well over the neoprene stockings. You can order the hippers over the net without too much trouble getting them to fit, but I would take them with you to buy the wading boots and try the boots on over the hippers to make sure of the fit. Ordering the wading boots on the net would be iffy at best. Joe

Mustang Mike, If the hackle is too long they'll tend to float on their little heads with their little tails straight up in the air. Joe

If you can't find it locally, JStockards is one of many that sell it: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/S...ntron-Yarn.html Joe

If you're like me and don't have a high speed drill, take your cordless drill and first make a hole with the smallest drill bit you have. Then go back and make the hole bigger by using the size bit that you want your hole to be. The small hole first tends to create less problems with the plastic when you make the bigger hole. Joe

I don't know this, but I would suspect there is a good fly shop or two around the Branson area. Go in and talk to the people there. They may have some fly tying and casting classes, as well. Most of us fly fishers and tiers are more than happy to get a beginner off on the right direction - or at least what we feel like is the right direction. It makes us feel more like experts! Joe

Tim, My favorites, as you suggested, are chartreuse and white Clousers and brightly colored Wooly Buggers. Any type of baitfish imitations should work great. Joe

Fatman is right on about Mike Connor. His vast knowledge of dressing flies, the techniques to use, and their history is incredible. His posts are fascinating reads. Joe

Look at this site: http://www.dtnicolson.dial.pipex.com/ Donald is constantly updating it. It is excellent. Also look at Hans' site: http://www.danica.com/flytier/ There are literally hundreds there. Joe

I don't think there is a rule of thumb. Some people swear by cement and not only use it on the whip finish but also use it at various stages of the fly to make it more durable, in their opinion. Others hate cement and would not ever use it. They believe a well tied whip finish will hold up just as well by itself. Many will finish a fly with two whip finishes, one on top of the other, for durability. There are good points for both arguments so experiment and see what works best for you. Joe

jmkratt, I've never seen 2 variations of this fly before, but as far as I can tell there's no trick to tying it differently. Just use the lighter hook and don't cut off the hackle fibers on the tail for the dry version. You could put some floatant on it, I guess, but most emerger patterns are fished in the film or just under it, so if it sinks a little all the better. Here is a step by step of the way the originator, John Barr, ties it: http://www.flyfisherman.com/ftb/jbemerge/ Joe

bigduhon, When you whip finish, do you do it in front of the hair butts or on top, right where you tied them in? I agree with troutfishonly, especially if you add the cement to the area where you tied the hair on. It will cause them to flair a bit. If you feel like you have to put on cement, whip finish under the hair butts, turn the fly over, and cement the bottom of the fly right by the eye where the whip finish is. It keeps the cement from getting on the hair. Of course, if you do this already....... :dunno: Joe

Roy, Excellent, as usual! Thank you. Joe

Bryan, I'm not a hunter so I buy mine. Contact Jim Slattery at http://www.jimsflyco.com. He's terrific and his skins are top quality. Joe

Pinch it hard when you tighten the thread. Also, check and see if you are maybe using too much elk hair. As I'm sure you know, it doesn't take much and the more you use, the more it will want to spin. If, after these suggestions and it still wants to turn, you can always use your thumbnail to put it back in place. The thread wraps through the butts, as shown in Hans' video, will usually help lock it in place pretty well. Joe

I have read about using dryer sheets but have never tried them. Everything I've seen says to wash them to get the fabric softener out to eliminate the smell. However, most articles I've seen say the good thing about them is they are soft and won't make your fly helicopter and twist the tippet when casting. I don't know if using the glue and making them harder would cause twisting or not. Joe

Gideon, I believe they are the Wiss clips. I have a pair and they are terrific. Here's a link: http://www.stoneriveroutfitters.com/cgi-bi...p;preadd=action Joe

Here's one using the Potts Weave. It's even simple enough for me to do. http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/de...cfm?parentID=91 Joe

BB, Both Hareline Dubbin (100% rabbit fur) and Antron will soak up water so neither would be the "best" choice, although both can be treated with floatant which will help some. Antron would be a lot more shiny and flashy, so I would think the Hareline would give a more realistic, muted look to a hopper pattern. There are better choices for a dry fly dubbing, though. However, given what you have, if you want it to stand out more then Antron would be the choice. For more realism, the Hareline Dubbin. Joe

And, if you buy your dubbing, every company's "PMD Dubbing" will be of a slightly different shade. But, then again, most of the real PMD's are a slightly different shade from each other, as well. Joe

Basically a light yellow.....sort of. Joe

Me, too...or foam. I usually do what you have said, hold on to the end of the post with my right hand (I'm right handed. I never trim the post to the correct length until I'm through tying the fly. It gives me more to hold onto) and make 2 turns over the lowest part of the post using my left hand to work the bobbin, and then - still holding on to the post - cinch them down tight. Then two more and cinch down again. Normally by then you can let go of the post and lightly wrap a couple more using your right hand. Grab the post again with your right hand and pull the wraps tight with your left. When you've put on enough thread wraps, attach your hackle feather on to the top of your wrapped post and tie it on by working the thread down the post and the stem. Usually you don't have to hold the post to do this. Then add the drop of cement and dress the body of the fly. At least this way works for me and it takes less than a minute. Also - I turn the vise so the post is parallel to the ground in the normal position that the hook is in when you're tying. This makes it much easier. Joe

VERN-O, What are you using for the post material? Joe

Great looking fly. Does it cast OK? I mean, does it twist the tippet? Joe

From A.K. Best's Dyeing and Bleaching Natural Fly-Tying Materials: "Mix six scoops (a small plastic scoop comes in the Clairol can) of Clairol Basic Professional White, Extra Strength Powder Lightener with a little hot water to make a paste. Keep thinning this paste until you have a two-cup container of a thin milky solution. Pour this solution into your dyeing pan. Then: Add one cup of forty percent volume peroxide and mix the two ingredients thoroughly. Add one half cup ammonia and mix thoroughly. Add four cups hot tap water and mix thoroughly again." Make sure you've saturated your deer hair first with a warm, weak soapy solution. It works very well. Keep stirring the mixture to make sure all the hairs get soaked well AND don't breathe in the fumes. Joe