heavynets

If you drag the sissors along the magnet (or vice versa) it will increase the magnetism slightly.

"As far as magnitizing the tool it don't happen. The magnet effect seems to dissipate quickly after removing from the magnet." ​Not true in my experience. They retain enough magnetism, for a long time, to pick up hooks.

It's all drawn up and ready to print. I reverse engineered the design, so I call it the Wal Vise. The dimensions were determined by extrapolating from Law vise photos on the web. I believe the jaws can be made from A-2 tool steel which is air hardening. I need to make some phone calls to find out what hardness to expect. Pre-hardend plates can always be added to the inside surfaces of stainless steel jaws if the A-2 idea doesn't pan out. I hope to have a jaw only adaptation for the Peak vise in the near future too.

Instead of adding so much counterbalance weight that you need tungston, can you reduce some weight on the opposite side so lead or steel could be used? Or make some well placed bends to change the fulcrum location?

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I've always found that my estimates were a lot more to my liking.

Clorox bleach will remove them in just a few minutes. Be sure to keep an eye on them or the whole hurl will be gone. Be sure to rinse well too.

Why the neoprene socks? Wouldn't any thick sock do?

Can you get people that post tying videos to get a manicure or at least clean under their fingernails and wash their hands. I normally don't notice such things, but it's right in our face with a tying video and it's very distracting. I know, it's not what you were looking for, but it's my only complaint.

http://www.ffp-shop.de/Catgut

Be aware that the staffs that are made in sections and held together with a bunge cord will pull apart if the tip section gets stuck in the mud or between rocks and you left up for the next step. Right when you need it most, it could be as useless for support as a chain. I use an aluminum walking staff purchased at Walmart for about $15. It has 3 sections that telescope together and lock at any desired length.

Mine is made with antron yarn with some dubbing twisted in.

For a whip finish I prefer to use none, but rather use two whip finishes, one on top of the other. When I do use a glue on thread I use Crazy Glue with its brush applicator. For eyes, I use E-6000 (Walmart) and then cover them with Solarez thin UV resin which overlaps slightly onto the surrounding material. I also use Solarez on my Clouser Deep Minnows. I've been trying Fabric Fusion on occasion and find it works well especially if flexibility is required.

Adam, you love beer more than fly fishing or fly tying, so what's your point? ;o)

1. What ever I happen to be wearing. 2. Korker w/ Boa 3. Felt or rubber w/ aluminum bars 4. Handy for making quick adjustments as the boot expands as it gets wet. 5. What ever I happen to be wearing. 6. Poly long underwear and synthetic cargo pants. Wool shirt, wool sweater, wading jacket to keep out the wind. A face mask or Buff really helps too. 7. A friend and I have both lost the felt soul to our Korkers in one very sticky mud bottom lake. It has only happened once, usually not a problem. I stood too long in one spot.

THERE ARE A LOT OF ANGRY OLD MEN OUT THERE TRYING TO BE THE INTERNET POLICE. IF EVERYONE USED GOOGLE, THERE WOULD BE LITTLE NEED FOR THIS SITE AT ALL. FLATS, LIKE ME, PROBABLY THINKS YOU OLD MEN CAN'T HEAR SO WELL....... CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW? LOL

Would using a barbless hook or grinding off the barb to remove a little weight help?????

It's just marketing. He has a list of names waiting on a fly.

http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/68709?feat=fly%20reel-SR0&page=streamlight-ultra-large-arbor-fly-reel Machined out of aluminum, 100% satisfaction guarentee, free shipping, $115, currently offering 25% off that price

https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/wilkinson-sword-double-edge-blades/ID=prod6147471-product

https://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts This WD-40 site says that it is 50% mineral spirits, so how can the main ingredient be naphtha?

Your video and proceedure is fine, but a little different than I would have done it. Personally, I would have first removed all the dirt and oil with soap and water and a toothbrush. (Vinegar doesn't cut grease nearly as well as soap and water) I would follow the initial cleaning with a few cycles though an ultrasonic cleaner to get into the tight spots. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for cheap. Only then would I use a 50 - 50 vinegar and water mixture, left overnight to remove any rust. After a thorough rinse and drying apply a rust preventive oil on exposed metal and a light grease to bearings.

I don't believe talc will work. I think the stuff you need is a silica powder. This is what I use, but the real stuff intended for flies may be better. http://www.3riversarchery.com/feather-dri-water-repellent-powder.html

Put a few coats of Beechwood Casey's Tru-Oil on the cork and it will never get dirty.