Christopher K

I tie with and sell their stuff, it's ok for the price. IMHO wapsi and hareline have more consistent grading and so I like them better. That said some of the nicest bucktails and other hairs I have are from superfly, you just have to pick through the stuff on the rack. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I'm 99% sure that they also supply BPS with their "White River" materials.

Royal wulff, quill body adam's and an EHC for me.

It was a western trib, a WAY west trib in BC

My larger spey reel (guru 4 with 30ft head, 200yrds running line and another 250 of GSP was spooled down to about halfway into the backing once, I was lucky I was able to get into a slow pool otherwise I'm sure the fish could have taken me further in the current. Again, better to have it and not need it...

And fly

Yes, it is possible to cut fingers with any braided line. I use 50lb GSP on both my spey reels (both have seen the backing regularly in bigger rivers out west), I haven't had issues with the line overlapping and I'm using a very wide spool reel, it doesn't tend to dig in much but that's most likely because it's on the heavier side. As for it cutting into your guides I'm sure it can but I haven't had any problems yet.

I just got the Grey's XF2 Salt in a 10wt and really like it so far, matched with a 3.5 Lamson Guru and outbound short.

I agree with the outbound short (wff) I just got one for my 10 and love it. For a cheaper option ditz2 has got it, shorten up a standard wf line or look for a bass taper line.

The Cabela's line isn't a bad option. I'd also look into Rio Mainstream. Remember as much as people may say it doesn't make a difference, there are very noticeable differences between lines! I always spend as much as I can on a line (something in the $60-90 range), because IMO it's the most important part of your system (maybe not as important as your fly, but close) higher quality lines have specialty tapers that can turn larger flies over, land lighter and shoot further, it doesn't sound like you need anything too specific though. Also take into consideration the lifespan of your line, if you're spending even $40 on a line it would be nice if it not only performed but lasted, better lines are more resistant to chemicals and damage from the sun, if you take care of your line you can reasonably expect it to last you at the very least a few years. If you can only afford an entry level line by all means do and those two I mentioned are nice lines for the money, but if you can I would always go with something a little better.

Russia for salmon and bows, Thailand for snakehead, Christmas Island for bones and GT, Norway for salmon and char, PEI for blue tuna (yes, on the fly), Rainy river stateside for sturgeon (again on the fly), Baja for roosters, Texas for reds, alpine lakes in Wyoming for golden trout, Tree River for char, Sutton River for sea run brook trout, Northern Saskatchewan for pike, LOTW for musky, New Zealand for trout, and south america for golden dorado. There are a few other's I've forgotten I'm sure...

Looks good! Depending on where you live it would imitate a herring, shad, alewife, maybe even a smelt. Try it again but go sparser with the material, it'll have a little more movement and you'll get a nice translucent effect. Might also be a little easier to cast, although this isn't usually an issue with synthetics.

I would probably bring a fly rod and maybe even a reel too

Work in the fishing department of an outdoors store, custom tyer and do tying instruction/guiding on the side.

A 7wt glass isn't really all that bad power wise, you just may be lacking in distance and I'm not sure how it will handle those tips. If looking at other rods I'd take a good look at a 6 or 7wt switch for your needs, it will easily handle tips and big flies if you're wading.

I would agree, having a few spools would be your best choice, usually I fish floating lines but I don't fish any water nearly as big as the Bow. One thing I would ask is are you wading or casting from a boat?