Chasing_Tails

CDC emerger, olive: Hook: Curved Caddis, #12 Tail: Antron yarn, slate gray Body: Turkey Biot, PMD (Bone Dry UV resin overcoat) Thorax: SLF Squirrel spikey dubbing, golden olive (dubbing brush) Wing/Wing case: CDC puff, slate gray

Rattler Minnow: Hook: Mustad 3407, #1 Thread: Danville 3/0, white Tail: Mylar tubing, large, pearl Rattle: 4mm glass rattle Body: Crosscut rabbit strip, olive Head: Cactus chenille, medium, pearl Eyes: Lead dumbell, medium, red Weedguard: Mono, 50lb.

Foam Trico spinner, black: Hook: Dry fly, #22 Thread: Uni-Thread 8/0, black Tail: Micro Fibettes, white Body: Razor Foam 1mm, opaque black Wing: Polypropylene floating yarn, white

Hendrickson CDC parachute emerger: Hook: Curved Caddis,#14 Thread: Uni-Thread, dk. brown Tail/shuck: Antron yarn, tan Body: Turkey biot, dk.tan (Bone Dry UV resin overcoat) Wing: CDC puff, wood duck gold Hackle: Rooster saddle, ginger Thorax: SLF Spikey Squirrel dubbing, natural fox

PMD parachute: Hook: Curved Caddis, #14 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, olive Tail: Hackle fibers, dun Body: Turkey Biot, PMD Wing: Floating polypropylene yarn, dun Hackle: Rooster neck, dun Thorax: SLF Spikey Squirrel, golden olive

LOL, it works both ways. Anytime I am on a stream/river I have to practice downstream sets to get out of the strip strike routine. And I will still end up strip striking 50 percent of the time...

Micro popper: Hook: Dry fly, #16 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, white Tail: Krystal Flash Collar: Neck hackle Body: Craft foam, 2mm (folded) Eyes: Sharpie marker The topwater bite was on fire this evening, but the size left something to be desired for most of the fish. My larger bugs were just getting swatted so I figured a few downsized poppers will fit the bit.

Possum Shrimp: Hook: Mustad 3407, #4 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, tan Eyes: Bead chain, med, black Body: Body braid, pearl Rib: Saddle hackle, grizzly Wing: Opossum My all time favorite crawling redfish fly

Biot body caddis emerger Hook: Curved caddis, #12 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, tan Body: Turkey biot, lt. cahill (coated with Bone Dry UV resin) Wing: Poly Yarn, lt. grey Thorax: Haretron Dubbing, cinnamon caddis Collar: Hungarian Partridge, natural

I'm in. I'll pm you preferences.

Partridge soft hackle, olive Hook: Mustad 3906, #12 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, olive Tail: Mallard flank, med. dun Body: Floss, olive (coated in Bone Dry UV resin) Rib: copper wire, 0.2mm Thorax: SLF Squirrel Spikey Dubbing, rust brown Collar: Hungarian partridge, olive

Standing Ovation Minnow: Hook: Mustad 3407, #2 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, olive Weedguard: 50lb mono Weight: Lead dumbell, large (pounded flat) Tail: Bucktail, white/olive/black Flash: Krystal Flash, brown and peacock Eyes: Prismatic, 3/16", red Markings: Sharpie Marker, brown Saw an interesting pattern on Youtube that was a standing minnow. It utilized Fish Skull Sculpin head for the weight and a bent hook to kick the tail of the fly vertical. I didn't have any in stock so I went with a lead dumbell, but pounded it flat so it would provide a more stable base. The bucktail gives enough buoyancy to keep the fly standing upright.

Mini-Clouser Minnow, baby bass Hook: Mustad 3906 #10 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, olive Eyes: Bead chain, x-small, black Body: Bucktail, white/tan/olive/black Markings: Sharpie marker, black

Biot spinner Hook: Mustad 94840 dry fly Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, orange Tail: Microfibetts, red brown Body: Turkey biot, rusty brown (Bone Dry UV overcoat) Wing: Floating polypropylene yarn, tan Throax: SLF Super Bright, brown

Pheasant tail nymph, olive Hook: Mustad 3906, #12 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0 olive Tail: Pheasant tail, olive Body: Pheasant tail, olive Rib: Copper wire 0.2mm, brown Thorax: Peacock herl Wing case: Turkey tail Legs: Hungarian partridge, olive

Pheasant Tail Black Stone Hook: Mustad 79580, #10 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, black Bead: Brass 3/16", black Tail: Goose biot, black Body: Pheasant tail, black Rib: Copper wire, black, 0.3mm Thorax: Peacock herl Legs: Hungarian partridge, black Back: Pheasant tail, black (coated in Bone Dry UV resin)

The Natural Shrimp: Hook: Mustad 3407, #1 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, tan Tail: Bucktail, tan Eyes: Golden Pheasant tippets Legs: Saddle Hackle, tan grizzly Body: Hareline Dubbing, cinnamon caddis Back: Mallard flank, gold Rib: Copper wire, 0.2mm, brown Capt. Bob mentioned a while back about the transition synthetic materials and I wanted to go back to an old school shrimp without requiring any synthetic materials. It's good to go back to basics sometimes.

No, that is not a typo. The mud/oyster flats will easily hit 90-95 on a sunny day. Just last week I went out for docklights in the evening and even at 11pm the river water was showing 88-90 degrees. The ocean temperature today is 85 so if you get a sunny day and shallow water it will shoot up from there.

Time to bump this thread. Conditions this weekend were not great for flats fishing with water temps in in the 92 range. So I figured I would try something different and have been hearing the bull redfish are moving in with the mullet run on the way. The goal for the day was 1) try a new spot for me, and 2) catch redfish. Headed out to the bridges in the morning for the last of the incoming tide with the main plan to fish the outgoing. Today was a bait day with live shrimp in the baitwell, fresh dead mullet and a few frozen blue crabs. I put out two rods with a lighter rod (Shimano baitrunner 3500/30lb power pro/40lb flouro leader) for the shrimp, and a heavier rod (baitrunner 4500/40lb power pro/50lb flouro leader) for the mullet and crab. After a few hard head catfish on the shrimp rod it tapped again. I pulled tight to set the circle hook and thought it was a snag until the first head shake. After a good fight and some close calls with the bridge pilings a 38" red came to the boat. Landed another 32" fish and lost a third that freight trained me and was not going to be stopped until it cut me off on bottom structure. By noon my goal was met and I was out of bait. Time to go home. This is hard work fishing...

BHB (bead head biot) caddis: Hook: Curved caddis, #12 Thread: Uni-thread 6/0, dk. brown Bead: Tungsten 1/8", metallic brown Body: Turkey Biot, lt. olive (coated with Bone Dry UV) Dubbing: SLF Spikey Squirrel Dubbin, dk. brown (dubbing loop)

Flutter Shrimp Hook: Kahle, #2 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, tan Tail: SF fiber, shrimp Antennae: Krystal Flash, gold Eyes: Mono, large, black Head: Ice Dub, UV tan Hackle: Saddle hackle, tan grizzly Legs: Sili-legs, gold barred Outriggers: Hard mono, 50lb Body: Palmer Chenile, small, tan Back: Swiss straw, tan Rib: 0.2mm wire, brown Weight: Lead dumbbells, small The design of this fly is to be worked in quick short strips that will pull the tail off of the bottom first causing the fly to rotate on the strip. On the fall the fly will sink tail first with a fluttering action of the body and legs as they trail vertically. The hard mono outriggers by the legs provides stability to keep the fly upright once it lands back to the bottom.

Denduke's Rattling Shrimp Hook: Saltwater O'shaughnessy hook, 1/0 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, tan Weedguard: Mono, 25lb Body: DNA Holo-Fusion Fiber, tan and Clear Cure Goo, thick/Bone Dry UV resin Rattle: Glass, 4mm Legs: Sili-legs, gold barred Throad: Antron yarn, burnt orange Eyes: Mono/glass bead Antennae: Krystal Flash, gold Love the pattern Denduke. Going to try it on some docklights this weekend.

Salt Zonker Hook: O'Shaughnessy salt, #1 Thread: Danville 3/0, white Tail: Bucktail, white Flash: Krystal Flash, pearl Back: Micro Pulsator Strip, Chart./white Body: Cactus chenille, medium, pearl white Eye: 3D molded, 1/4", red Cement: Bone Dry UV resin

Swimming Shrimp: Hook: O'shaughnessy saltwater, #1 Thread: Uni-Thread 6/0, tan Tail: Blood quill marabou, tan (25lb mono tail support) Flash: Krystal Flash, tan Body: Cactus chenille, large, tan Hackle: Saddle hackle, barred tan Back: Swiss straw with Clear Cure Goo, thick, UV resin overcoat Eyes: Mono, black, large Antennae: Krystal Flash, copper Weedguard: Mono, 25lb Markings: Sharpie marker, brown

One thing to keep in mind with materials, you can do amazing things with materials you find at the craft store, but using mediocre materials can only frustrate you because the fly won't look like you want, not because of your tying skill, but simply because of the quality of the material your using. Your bugger looks good and don't even worry about the colors not matching. Contrasting colors can add to the fly. Welcome to the addiction, it only gets worse...