Black Stone Flymph

[Soft-hackle 0]

A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by Soft-hackle:

 

Black Stone Flymph

 

[letumgo 0]

Yet another killer fly, Mark! Love the look of the curved hook, too.

[Joe Hard 0]

Very nice, a real fish getter for sure

[idryfly 0]

Been tying a similar pattern for the Gunpowder winter stone for the last few years but your's is spot on. I can see I have to re do my boxes

[Alex C. 0]

I can see I have to re do my boxes smile.gif

 

I love it when that happens :headbang:

 

Mark,

 

In the description you have that the body was dubbed leisenrig style. What's that?

If I'm reading your tying instructions right(great job BTW), you're making a dubbing noodle, tying it in at the tip of the abdomen, wrapping it foward, tying off, then reinforcing it with the krystal flash.

 

Is that right?

[Soft-hackle 0]

I guess it's time I posted this.

 

Leisenring Method of Dubbing; This is done off the the fly and tied on, later.

 

" Take a piece of fly tying silk nine or 10 inches long, of the desired color which you wish to show up in the body undercolor,and wax it well (use good dubbing wax, but nothing overly tacky.) Lay it lengthwise on your left leg right in the middle on top, from your kneecap back towards your body.

 

Let one-third of the thread hang down over your knee in front out of the way onto your lower leg. Now take the dubbing to be spun and spread it along the waxed silk thread, starting about two inches from the end of the thread nearest your hip.

 

Spread it sparsely at first, evenly and gradually increase the amount in order to have an even tapered body for your fly. About one-and-one-eighth inches is long enough for a size 12 or 13 hook, but after spinning a few and using them you will be able to judge the desired lengths for various hook sizes pretty accurately yourself.

 

Now we have our silk lying in a straight line and our dubbing spread out properly to make a neat, tapered body. Now place the thumb of you left hand on the bare silk about one inch from the end nearest your hip. Place the second finger of your left hand on the bare silk beyond the dubbing toward the knee.

 

With the thumb and first finger of your right hand grasp the silk hanging over the knee; bring the silk up and pass it or pull it under the second finger of your left hand, being careful not to release the pressure off the silk being held down by thumb and finger of left hand. Keep the thread and dubbing straight and tight.

 

Now that you have your silk pulled under the second finger, place the first finger of your left hand on top of both threads and within one-half inch of the dubbing. You know have the thumb, first finger and second finger of your left hand on the silk. Remove the second finger, keeping a good pressure on the ends of the thread beneath the dubbing with your first finger and thumb.

 

Holding the end of the loose thread between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand, bring this thread down directly on top of the bottom thread so that the dubbing is between these two well waxed threads. Before touching it to the dubbing, however, stretch it tight and make sure the top thread is absolutely in line with the bottom thread.

 

Now use the second finger of your right hand to press down the top thread against the dubbing directly in front of your left thumb. Hold it there, remove the left thumb, slide the finger (note: the second finger of your right hand) toward the two loose ends of silk and replace your left thumb.

 

At this point remove your right hand from the scene of operations and observe the two silk threads with your dubbing between them, the first finger of your left hand holding the threads down at the end nearest your knee and your left thumb pressing down just behind the dubbing.

 

Take the doubled end of silk at your knee between the thumb and first finger of your right hand and pull at it in order to get the loop out straight. Let it go and lay flat down on your leg. Then take your thumb (note: left hand thumb) and put it on top of the doubled silk at right angles to it. Press down lightly and starting with the ball of your thumb, pull your thumb across the silk, thus rolling the silk that is under it. Give it two or three such rolls. holding it down each time, until it is twisted tight.

 

After you give it the last roll, catch it up and give it another roll or twist between the thumb and forefinger stretch it towards the knee and lift the left fore finger straight up off the silk, keeping the thumb down tightly on the opposite end. As you lift the left fore finger the silk and dubbing will twist into a rope, so to speak.

 

Being careful to keep the thread twisted and taut, catch up the threads under your left thumb and twist them in the opposite direction. You now can take it up and twist it.

 

You can store bodies made like this on cards that have slits cut on opposite sides. Slip the looped end in one slit, and the loose ends into the other. They will stay like this till you are ready to use them. When you get ready to tie onto the hook, use the ends, not the loop end. If need be, you can twist it more once you get it tied to the hook. What is nice is that you can make the fur lay lengthwise, across the thread, , and depending on how heavy you dub it, can get real buggy results."

 

I know this sounds like a very labored process, but once you do it a couple times, it's not really that difficult. In this way you can make-up bodies or dubbing brushes ahead of time for use, later. I believe that using this method gives results that are not comparable to other methods.

 

I hope this helps, Alex. If not ask more questions.

 

 

 

[Alex C. 0]

Thanks for the in-depth response :headbang: I read over it several times and think I have the just of it. I'll give it a shot when I get home tonight. Thanks again!

[Soft-hackle 0]

Alex, All,

You can try this. It is a variation on the method, and it works.

 

 

Once you get the brush complete, you can store the brush on cards with slits cut opposite each other on the sides of the card. This keeps them together. If you use the brush immediately, then tie it to the shank by the open ends, not the looped end. Then it can be twisted more, once on the shank.

 

Mark

[Alex C. 0]

Thanks mark. I like the idea of having them pre-made.

 

 

[chrisfish 0]

very nice fat body stone SH. Great explanation also. Thank you

[picketpin 0]

Great looking stone pattern Good job thanks for sharing

Tight Lines Mike

[letumgo 0]

Great explanation, Mark! You've got the makings for a wonderful article for a future issue of Hatches Magazine (hint...hint...)

 

Thanks for taking the time to write up this method in such details. Much appreciated!

[stonefly1 0]

That is a sweet fly that can be tied in all sizes easily. Nice addition!

[Gig 0]

Soft Hackle, you've done it again. Very nice fly indeed and a useful one to have in your box. I will be adding some of these to my arsenal very soon. Beautifully tied.

 

Cheers :yahoo:

 

Gig

[oldschool 0]

Mark, thats a great pattern....thanks for sharing with us!

 

jman