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Fly Tying
Saltybum

From the Saltwater Bench

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PeteGray,

Nice flies as always . I tried tying one of your sculptures and it

didn't come out half bad. Pete was UV product have you settled

on?

I've tried all the majors [except for Solarez] and have come to prefer Bug Bond and Loon.. fairly similar... thick n' thin...

sometimes the Loon Fly Body comes up on fleabay for a discounted price... I always have some stashed away...

and I've got a drawer full of lights... the best one of the lot is the Bug Bond Pro torch... also comes with a high price...

there are some fleabay alternatives that do just fine for under $15.. they run on a rechargeable 18650 lithium battery...

thumbs up !

a fine translucent tip applicator and squeeze bottle is what I need to do what I do...

when applying the resin... LESS is MORE.. and cure as you go... !

Syringes and metal applicator tips have no place in my kit...

I can go on and on but won't...

another time and place... or a PM for specific suggestions and why...

IMHO... Light Cured Resin is pure MAGIC...! smile.png

 

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Dig the lizard pics? Are they an homage to the lizard king?

All hail to the Lizard King and the reptilian part of our brain that most deny... wink.png

 

and that goes for Turtles too... :)

DSCN0779_zpsye5ht0fr.jpg

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Thanks Peter for the info. When the winter settles in thick and I'm at the bench more I'm sure I'll have more

questions and will pm. Thanks for the assistance.post-59483-0-50766300-1480735159_thumb.jpeg

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Thanks Peter for the info. When the winter settles in thick and I'm at the bench more I'm sure I'll have more

questions and will pm. Thanks for the assistance.attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Ousgezeichnet.. !

there are some tricks and techniques that prove very useful and effective...

the pheatherz do most of the heavy lifting... :)

 

Picture7-1_zps0ec1c5ad.png

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petegray, you have inspired me to try some phly welding attempts, but now phacing some minor issues..

 

Do you build a base of resin, before sticking on eyes, thereby avoiding the tendency of the dressings to squish..ie create phlat cheeks phirst?.

 

Is it pheasible to "erase" mistakes with a phine phile or emery board?? The problem is too much build up on the head.

 

Anyone else can jump in, Please!! ! ... Me bigly novice here, have barely conquered the challenge of using a compatible flash light... Sun bailed me out, previously :)

 

ps I know of the reptilian brain parts to which you re -pher....Thank you,

 

Phlat Rock native

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Welded Wide Body Tunnel Hull... Johnny Winter Albino...

thread wrap + super glue + Bill's Bodi Braid = Phoundation

P6281230.jpg

 

Pheatherz "welded" in place... LESS is MORE... try to use as little resin as possible to complete the task !

a smear of resin on the target... and a micro bead of resin along the quill...

once the light goes on, that's it... no repositioning... done deal... curing light seals the deal...

have the torch at the ready... when they touch and things line up... activate the UV Death Ray...

Bada Bing... Bada Boom...

P6281231.jpg

P6281233.jpg

 

Symmetrical pheatherz welded in on port and starboard...

You can add phlash [3 or 4 strands] to the bead of resin on the target...

and lay the feather right over it... once cured the phlash will be subtle and phishy...

P6281234.jpg

P6281235.jpg

 

In this case I opted for Jungle Cock eyez...

the same procedure hold true for 3D eyez...

place a small puddle of resin on the target where the eyez will go...

position the eye over the resin and settle it down... squish it in place with a bodkin...

when it's on spot, apply some curing light and it's phrozen in place...

I prefer to "encapsulate" the eyes with a thin coat of resin over the eye and extend the bead slightly down the phlank...

P6281236-1.jpg

P6281237.jpg

Phoil Eyez n' Phlash option...

IMG_8598.jpg

resin can be added as needed to complete the head...

even though the acrylic claims to be "tack free" I always apply a thin coat of Tuffleye Clear Coat or Sally Hansons or Hard as Nails to render a glossy phinish...

 

The SUN is the ultimate phull spectrum curing light...!

To ensure a 100% cure, I always mount the phinished phlyz onto a block of foam...

and set the block of phlyz in the sun... smile.png

 

Pheel phree to PM me to sort out any issues...

I've got some techniques that you won't find in any books or articles...

a phone call can quickly resolve any questions and get up and running...

 

I hope to be at the Bear's Den "EXPO" on 25 Feb... [ALWAYS a pleasure]

reconnoitering and restocking and generally just milling around... Dazed and Confused...!

probably won't be tying/welding but can answer questions and tell some lies and war stories...

 

ps

it's hard to "undue" mistakes

the "Ready... Fire... Aim..." concept is hard to correct...

mistakes can be removed with a razor blade but then then things start to get ugly...

NO curing light until ALL SYSTEMS GO... smile.png

Until you get more comfortable and proficient at targeting the resin, I would NOT advise dealing with the PHLUFFY stuff... real easy to bollox things up pronto...

​'best to stick with basic stripped pheathers to start with...

'consider the fluffy marabou challenge only AFTER dispensing and positioning becomes phamiliar...

F70A2135_zpsc4acffaa.jpg

F70A1200_zps6ede693f.jpg

Phly Welders Unite wink.png

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Welded Wide Body Tunnel Hull... Johnny Winter Albino...

thread wrap + super glue + Bill's Bodi Braid = Phoundation

 

 

Pheatherz "welded" in place...

a smear of resin on the target... and a micro bead of resin along the quill...

have the torch at the ready... when they touch and things line up... activate the UV Death Ray...

Bada Bing... Bada Boom...

 

 

 

Symmetrical pheatherz welded in on port and starboard...

You can add phlash [3 or 4 strands] to the bead of resin on the target...

and lay the feather right over it... once cured the phlash will be subtle and phishy... [/b

 

In this case I opted for Jungle Cock eyez...

the same procedure hold true for 3D eyez...

place a small bead of resin on the target...

position the eye over the resin and set it down... squish it in place with a bodkin...

when it's on spot, apply some curing light and it's frozen in place...

I prefer to "encapsulate" the eyes with a thin coat of resin and extend the bead slightly down the phlank

 

resin can be added as needed to complete the head...

even though the acrylic claims to be "tack free" I always apply a thin coat of Tuffleye Clear Coat or Sally Hansons or Hard as Nails to render a glossy phinish...

 

The SUN is the ultimate phull spectrum curing light...!

To ensure a 100% cure, I always mount the phinished phlyz onto a block of foam...

and set the block of phlyz in the sun... :)

 

Pheel phree to PM me to sort out any issues...

I've got some techniques that you won't find in any books or articles...

a phone cal can quickly resolve any questions and get up and running...

 

I hope to be at the Bear's Den "EXPO" on 25 Feb... [ALWAYS a pleasure]

won't be tying/welding but can answer questions and tell some lies...

 

Phly Welders Unite ;)

 

Got it... back to vice, mean vise, at half time of UW v San Diego State phootball game. Go Pokes..

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How long do eyes last with loon uv?

The eyez are NOT held in place via their sticky backing...

they are placed in a small puddle of resin and pressed down with a bodkin as the light cures the acrylic...

An overcoat of resin is then applied which encapsulates the eyez and completes the head...

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